GTA Turbo ECU problem

HI. I'm rebuilding a GTA Turbo, and have just got to the point of firing it up. But at position 2 of the key, the ECU warning light flashes about once a second, along with a click from the Injection Relay (left-hand one under the ECU), and there is no click from the pump relay (RH one). If I disconnect the rear pump, the pump relay buzzes furiously. Both pumps work fine on 12v, but no priming occurs. Sounds like an ECU problem. Where can I get it tested/repaired? Or are there some quick checks I can do myself?

if we knew where you were located, as detailed in your profile, some one local may be willing to lend you theirs or try yours in their car.

That would be a great help. I'm between Banbury and Stratford-on-Avon, if anyone is close.

You might try el presidente Stephen Dell...
His premises are 30 mins from you...

http://alpineparts.co.uk/?page_id=503

He may be able to help...with parts/advice.

I grew up in your neck of the woods..and still visit from time to time...but no immediate plans. Which village are you in?

I don't know of a local specialist to you..or indeed that many owners near to you.

Lee at RATS is I think the next nearest (but that's probably 90mins away)..he's helpful and often replies on here with help...and may also have parts.

I'd try those 2 folks first...
Others on here might offer some other tips..
There is diagnostics port..you get mixed opinions on using these. There is the old xr25 Renault scanner plus the renault renix ECU manual. Nor many folk have these or know how to drive them !
Pretty sure that has an ECU diagnosis routine..but most folk tend probably swap out to test.
I bought an old Sykes pickavent scanner but never used it...as I fixed my issue before it arrived.





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Yes I need to give you that back Dave

Thanks Dave, I'll contact Stephen. I'm in Brailes, by the way

Brailes..went to school (KES) with some lads from Brailes. If you were ever disturbed by drunken parties/enthusiastic driving some time in the early 90s I apologize

My mother-in-law lives in Hook Norton... occasionally drive up in the GTA.

Good luck with the car..post some pics..and I'm sure folk on here will give you some pointers.

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Small world. My son Dylan went to KES sixth form in 1987/90. He may have been a bit ahead of you.
As for Hook Norton, Brewery - like, dentist - not so like

HI. I'm rebuilding a GTA Turbo, and have just got to the point of firing it up. But at position 2 of the key, the ECU warning light flashes about once a second, along with a click from the Injection Relay (left-hand one under the ECU), and there is no click from the pump relay (RH one). If I disconnect the rear pump, the pump relay buzzes furiously. Both pumps work fine on 12v, but no priming occurs. Sounds like an ECU problem. Where can I get it tested/repaired? Or are there some quick checks I can do myself?

The ecu is pretty robust, albeit basic. The output drivers don't normally exhibit faults that would cause an oscillation. Before swapping ecu's, I would do a thorough check of all the 12V return paths (earths), and make sure they are well bonded electrically, corrosion free etc. Then check the engine loom for short circuit faults, culprits are at the connectors entry e.g. the injector connectors inside the black boot, pull it back and inspect. The insulation ages badly with heat as it's PVC, goes brittle and cracks... rest is QED... same for all the engine bay sensors, idle air valve connector etc, they all go. Intermittent shorts can cause voltage dips that will keep cycling the ecu as it does an initial check on sensor connectivity and faults. Check the ecu loom free connector, and make sure there are no pushed back connector sockets inserts.

If all else fails, I can bench test and repair the ecus, but hopefully that won't be necessary.

Regards,
Martin

Thanks Martin. I'll give everything the once-over.
I see ATP Electronics sell a replacement ECU XER10112. Do you know if it's really compatible and any good? At £215 + VAT it seems very cheap.

Ah, ATP have clarified that theirs is is not a new ECU, it's a test and repair charge of customer unit.

Small world. My son Dylan went to KES sixth form in 1987/90. He may have been a bit ahead of you.
As for Hook Norton, Brewery - like, dentist - not so like

Yes, indeed a small world. Your son would be 3 or 4 years older than me

Glad Martin Faulks has seen this thread...as he knows these ECUs very well.

Indeed sensors/joints/crunchy wiring (especially dodgy earths) would be my first hunch.

I think Martin has commented before on here which are the minimum set of feeds the ECU needs to run the engine (albeit badly). Maybe best to start with those.

Dave

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[stephendell]

Feel free to pop over and borrow a good ecu to try. You can leave yours as security.

If it behaves the same it’s not the ecu!

I’ll be around Monday and Tuesday next week. 07956495773

Thanks Stephen. I'll give you a call on Monday

Thanks to Stephen lending me an ECU, I was able to establish that the problem lay elsewhere, and eventually traced it to a very poor earth, now corrected. So now:
the fuel pumps are working fine, pressure about 3 bar at the fuel rail,
injectors squirt fuel when 12v applied,
injector signal appears when cranking
TDC sensor signal appears when cranking.

At this point I stopped, because the oil pressure gauge shows nothing when cranking (after initial kick when ignition switched on), and the OP warning light stays solid. Maybe the sender or gauge is bad, but a test gauge on the pressure switch feed also shows nothing, and when I left the hole open, no oil appeared. So I think the oil pump is US.

Time to whip off the sump to check the collector isn't bunged solid, and the timing cover to check the pump and drive.I wonder if that can be done after removing the muffler, without dropping the engine out. Any thoughts?

Stephen, I'll contact you and return the ECU next week.