Engine Rebuild D510 Turbo 86

As some of you may know, my engine started consuming a lot of water at Macon last year.
It was so bad, with mayonnaise, I had to add 3 liters on water after a 200 mile drive (including a blast around the hills), that one could not read the oil level because the dip stick was so contaminated, the oil filler cap was caked in it and when I drained a bit of oil from the sump, water was clearly evident..... so the car was recovered to the UK.
That was last Aril, and I have been busy sine.
I have since refreshed the oil and the car runs like a dream..... but to have water in the sump is bad.
2 Sundays ago I took the engine out. This weekend I cleaned it externally and have started to strip it down.
In my mind, it is 32 years old, it has been driven by me for the last 14 years, been sprinted and tuned to 280BHP.
So if there is water in the sump, it is a head gasket or liner seals or something catastrophic, so needs a rebuild.

so far, everything looks like new, must be something to do with that oil I use.

Bank A gasket looks ok.

Bank B looks perfect too

Later this week I will be removeing the liners.

It may look like my water has been rather rusty, but actually I added a couple of bottles of red food die to the water and ran the engine for 30 mins...... in an effort to see some tell tale signs when dismantling the engine. But so far nothing.

Even the block is not full of sediment.

Back of block, around no 3 cylinder.

Worth checking the liner protrusion at this stage Simon? See if anything has sunk?

Simon - could it be the oil cooler? I have had terrible troubles with the one on my R21 - does the D510 have the same type of oil cooler as the A610?

I replaced the oil cooler on my 21 with a new one that has also failed. Thinking of doing away with a cooler entirely.

I have water in the oil. No Oil in the water.
My mind says water is about 1.5 bar of pressure and oil is at a higher pressure of 2 to 6-7 and maybe 8 bar at times.
I suppose I had about 50 cc of water drained from the sump, that is 50cc too much. Not a great amount, but tons of mayonnaise.
I have removed the water fed oil cooler and put the filter straight onto the block.
It's hard to tell if that is a fix or not. I pressure tested the oil cooler and dunked it into a bucket of water, no bubbles, but both water connections are pretty rusty so its going in the scrap pile any way.

If it's not eveident that it is the liner seals, then I will need to start looking for some cracks in the head and also the liners

Liner base in block might well be the cause. Cracked liner would pressurise the coolant system.Oil pressure should be about 4.5 bar max, pressure release spring loaded plunger in oil pump, check that is moving smoothly. Strip it down, clean and polish plunger.
Also check inside the V for any rot through the main oil feed.

Oil filter cooler...I've had a few dodgy ones,generally they seem to be OK but I'd bin them anyway and plumb in a oil rad as I've done on Ratty. Bolt it up to the rear bumper outrigger arm and plonk a fan on it.

Thanks Lee, engine has been run for about an hour, with a couple of bottles of food die in the coolant. Hoping that this will create a tell tail sign..... some where. Staining can clearly be seen on the head gaskets..... but no tell tail failures.
Now that I have got this far, I have to remove the liners, just to see whats what.

You'll have to re-seat/shim the liners in any case as there won't be enough protrusion and probably will need double shimming. You should skim the piston crowns as they're out as well..lower that comp a tad .

Simon, how many miles has that engine clocked up?

Hard to say, speedo does not work every year.
I got the car with nearly 40k on it, probably 60-70k.
Inside it is immaculate and chain guide are hardly worn at all.
I have always used Fuchs Pro-S ester based oil and a new filter every year with oil change.
It's had a hard life under my right foot though, plenty of full-load driving confirmed by a blown differrential 2 years ago.