Fuel Pumps

.But however I adjust the idle screw she dies on me

Mike ....... Glad to hear you are getting somewhere with it now ........... can I ask which screw are you referring to, as there are two adjusting screws that have to be adjusted to set the revs at idle.

Hi John, only knew about one..
I've been adjusting (from x3 turns) out the bigger screw with the visable spring..but doesn't seem to have much effect...on the revs..is there another one on the same carb...I known the one just below and forward is the mixture screw (usually covered with a plastic plug)
Haven't played with that yet.

OK ....... so you know about the larger screw adjuster and the smaller one for mixture adjustment.
With regard to the larger screw ...... that is to set the revs, but turn an eighth of a turn at a time and pause each time as it takes a few seconds for any adjustment to take effect with carburettors.
From memory, I think screwing it in reduces the revs and out to increase the revs.
The trick is to run the engine till it is at normal operating temperature ...... immobilise the Accelerated Idle by removing one of the connectors from the solenoid valve RHS of the engine ( it has vacuum pipes attached to it ) ..... set the revs at around 1000 with the larger adjuster, then adjust the mixture screw (small one) incrementally pausing between adjustments for the engine to settle.
You have to try screwing in and out ...... but you will be guided by the change of revs each time you make an adjustment.
If the revs start to climb, keep adjusting the Rev adjuster to maintain 1000 revs ...... should the revs fall while adjusting the mixture, then stop and adjust the other way ...... what you are looking for is to peak the revs with the mixture adjuster while keeping the revs at 1000.
Once you have found that point, you can lower the revs to around 850 to 900 revs.
You cannot go much further with that adjustment without an exhaust gas analyser ...... but my method should be good enough to get you going.

Thanks John...its a big learning curve for me...I spent the first years of ownership scared of adjusting or playing with anything on the carbs...on the old adage if its not broke don't ...
I've got a Renault workshop manual that cost me a few boxes of cigars
to get when Bath Renault Performance garage closed down..I think there were only 6 performance alpine ones in UK.
but its a bit vague about the carbs set up..well to me anyhow..

PS - should the main carb butterflies move when reving them engine manually when up to temp and thermostat has opened..a daft question as ..yes..but for some reason my main carb seems stuck...page B-33
Says - under 35 Ceei last para..
- the throttle butterflies of the dual barrel carb (N) should follow the movement of link (11)...mine don't as far as I can see...I think the French to English translation was a bit random in the 80's..haa

PS - should the main carb butterflies move when reving them engine manually

No ....... you will not be able to see the twin butterflies to move by revving the engine when stationary.

Says - under 35 Ceei last para..
- the throttle butterflies of the dual barrel carb (N) should follow the movement of link (11)...mine don't as far as I can see..

That is right ....... the butterflies are operated by vacuum but will only open to the degree of the position of how much acceleration you are applying to the throttle pedal.
You will notice that link 11 is attached to the underside of the throttle wheel ....... therefore if the wheel is in half throttle position, the twin butterflies will only be able to open to half throttle. The wheel acts as a stop for the vacuum operated butterflies ....... if there was no stop, the butterflies would open fully once you come off idle.
I hope this makes sense to you.

PS. For bedtime reading, as you have a W/S manual, pages B-30 & B-31 is worth reading & absorbing.

Hi John just saw your reply..thanks..I took the main carb off this morning to give it a clean up & oil, and to check nothing was jaming....I wish I'd kept my mecano set...u need the spanners in it...getting all the linkages apart is bit of a game..but...after putting g it all back together I think she's running even better...thing is I can't really remember what the engine sounded like as it was so long ago...getting there slowly..

Hi All

I recently got the GTA out of the shed for some TLC as it has been sitting for way too long.

Was idling ok but, when I went for a drive, after a while it was evident that any increased throttle would have very little effect on engine revs. There was no jerkiness, just slowly losing more and more throttle response and power. Eventually it stopped altogether. At first I thought I ran it out of fuel (even though gauge read 3.5 gal). Added about 4-5L of fuel but could not get her started again. If I did run it out of fuel should it take much to get it restarted once adding some fuel? I turned it over many times to no avail.

Fuel pump relay clicks and I can hear the rear pump when switching ignition on. I'm thinking it could be the front pump. Would appreciate some pointers on how to prove if this is in fact the case. I haven't removed either pump from the car before. I assume to get to the front pump I need to jack the car and access from underneath after removing the under tray?

Also - In case I do need to get a new pump/s I have done some research on this forum and the standard pumps seem to be:

Front: Pierburg - 7 20694 13 7 310

Rear: Bosch - 8 580 484 027

I have not had any luck finding either of these part numbers online. Are they no longer available?
I've read about some alternative pumps for big horsepower applications but I would be just after something close to standard that fits without any mods.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Tom

Hi All

I reference to previous post I have since checked a few other bits on the car including spark.

I am getting correct voltage to the coil and spark through the king lead. However I'm not getting any spark to the plugs.

I took off the distributor cap (accompanied by much swearing) and noticed the black plastic cowl has a chunk out of the edge about the size of a thumb nail. I wouldn't have thought this would necessarily cause a no-spark situation though?

I assume I should now purchase a new Bosch cap and rotor (and a cowl if these are available?). Existing cap is stamped Made in Italy so I assume is a Facet.

I was sure I had a fuel issue given the way the car died while driving...