I haven't added everything up, although I have a big pile of receipts. Way over 10 anyway, plus the car.
Why..it would depress me!
Painting will cost >3k, plus the cost of dismantling to get the job done properly...I'd say >2k for that.
If you take the suspension off for a refurbishment, expect >2k + by the time you have done any renewals of bushes, joints etc ...front suspension in particular, top struts and swivel joint break or have to be cut before removal.
Rust...cross member, sills, rear wheel arch pockets, sub frame...all possible areas, mostly invisible before a lot of dismantling.
The Southend/red ebay car does look good in the pictures, high spec for a red car (which was the standard colour).
In my view working AC makes the cars more pleasant as they heat up a lot in the sun, but non working will be expensive as the compressor, pipes and condenser really need replacing to sort properly, that means removing the front wings and bumper.
ABS.personal choice..its not a great system, but rear wheel lock is bad news on a rear engine car. If its not working, diagnosis is hard...spares rare.
This leaves a problem as "with MOT "to "really tidy underneath and on top" is a big gap in cost.
As always best to buy the car that represents the state you want, restoration is always more expensive. For me, the problem was every car I looked at needed paint, even the ones that had had suspension and underside overhauls. So I decided to go for a tatty car and get it restored, Now I'd go for a mid range tidy car but make sure the sills and cross member were OK before handing over the cash. Remember restoration will take ages too...I'm at over 2 years and still don't have a working car (although the last 4 months have been laziness on my side)
What type of car do you want?
Seems to be
4k for grotty without MOT and visible faults.
6k for above with MOT, will need work to improve cosmetically.
12k gets you a tidy but not concors car.
I don't think there have been enough concors or restored cars changed hands recently to know top end values...
For me Atmo made sense as they are simpler and no high pressure fuel lines to catch fire, but the carbs are my current challenge...
Holley conversion proven route, but that's another 1K.
Not sure that I have helped you here...but a few more pointers to cost.
