A610 crankshaft nut help?

Hi All,

I'm trying to remove the crankshaft nut. Any hints? I have tried an electric impact wrench but it just doesn't budge...

Mind, I can't quite get it on squarely as there's not enough room, but it does have purchase on it.

Andrew

In car it's an issue.

You could try locking the flywheel on the LHS.I have a locking tool somewhere but tbh it's a bit of a fudge fit .Bolts to bellhousing and locking teeth poke into starter ring .Then swing on a breaker bar
Search Ebay etc ,Pug,Volvo PRV might come up with something

Nothing car specific, sorry, when Clee did that on my atmo, the engine was out and it came off easily with an electric impact driver.
Standard stuff....Have you locked the crankshaft?
There is a plate you can remove by the gearbox that gives good access for that. I have a special tool that bolts on the achieve a rigid lock.
Plus gas is your friend, but you need to wait a few hours after application for it to work.
No other insights, sorry, I expect Clee or John can help more as they must do this most weeks,

Parallel posts...sorry...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/s-Yato-Timing ... SwhQhYzaCl


I think you can get just the one I'm on about on it's own, it's the small silver one in this kit ...ish ....you may need a persuader to get it to fit the teeth

Plugs out, TDC disconnected, breaker bar chocked, bearing in mind rotation, flick starter? Nut stays stationary, motor goes clock as you look at it?,
Never tried it, .........only been told it, donkeys ago, if that doesn't shift it, repeat above with plugs in and TDC in................250Bhp should shift it......oooohh, what a mess!

When I removed mine the engine was out and the clutch removed. I bent and drilled this piece of flat bar, a bit crude but it worked. It would also work with the clutch in place.

I have tried an electric impact wrench but it just doesn't budge...

Make sure the battery has been fully charged, as these wrenches do loose their power if left unused for a while. I have a 24v Sealey one, and if it won't shift a bolt, I charge it up then the bolt comes off with no problem. Just a thought.

Thanks guys,

I tried the cranking the engine over thing with the breaker bar attached and chocked. I don't have a long enough breaker bar so I used my torque wrench. It clicked at 300Nm without undoing, so it must be pretty tight!

I have a couple of things to try - including the cranking thing again. I could try allowing the engine to spin a little before the breaker bar hits the ground - I wasn't able to do that as was because it was already against the ground. I might try suspending it with a couple of rubber bands or something.

Another thing to try is first gear, foot hard on the brakes. I have also ordered a locking tool and a universal joint for my impact wrench.

Will post again, success or failure! I want to weld a 36-1 trigger wheel to the pulley. Was considering welding it while still attached. Good idea or not? It's hard to centre it exactly. I am holding it in place with magnets.

Andrew

It is NOT a good idea to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. It will get damaged and then be useless.

With a helper on the brakes and the car in a gear, you should be able the put your leg against a road wheel and pull hard on a proper breaker bar. First of all, soak the nut in penetrating oil for a few days. Also, use a good fitting 6 sided socket.

Have you tried hot and cold, go and get a can of pipe freeze one with an additional plastic pipe the same as WD 40 heat up the pulley then spray the nut with the freeze it will need a fair bit of it then go with the impact normally works first time.

I have ordered a universal joint for my impact wrench.

Not a good idea to use a universal joint with an impact wrench ...... because of the extra length of the joint you will be further off line with the bolt and at a more acute angle ..... any variation off the "straight on" to the bolt reduces the power from the wrench.
Have you considered removing or loosening the rear bumper in order to get the wrench coupled straight on. ?
I have a saying ...... sometimes the longest way, is the shortest in the long run. It happens all the times when working on cars.

+ the UJ will most likely break,throwing bullets of steel flying .. bouncing off a wall and right through a glass panel .....just saying like

Oh yes, we could start a good calamity thread.

I have a mate, who shut the bonnet on his Mk2 escort........and then it was rather obvious that he had left a big spanner on top of his new air filter........impression in bonnet as a constant reminder lol.

The only other possible problem is that someone has put the rong lock tight on the bolt, the only way to get it out is heat as it softens it.

I can't remember whether I used heat on mine but you could try the old candle wax method.
Heat the nut sufficiently to melt the wax, remove the flame and hold the candle against the screw thread and at the back of the nut. The wax melts and gets drawn into the thread. It may need a few heat and wax applications to penetrate all the thread. Then apply the breaker bar and socket.
It has worked for me in the past when penetrating oils had failed on some really stubborn joints.