De-rusting front end

I'm hoping that's the only issue on the subframe so shouldn't need to go that far. It's been out recently remember, and it was hammerited before so fingers crossed that's the only issue with it.

[mettersl]

I'm sure someone did this a few years ago...would need to search the early forum....don't know if all the old stuff migrated.
Lee

I removed the subframe on my 610 whilst leaving the engine/gearbox in situ. Here's the original account of how it was done:

I removed the subframe (engine cradle) from my A610 some time ago and although I haven't done the same with the D502 I have, I'm pretty sure the same principles will apply. I have extracted the description from my original post but I would say that there was no need to disconnect fuel lines, or clutch line and I did not disconnect the handbrake cables because I decided to modify the bracket (tube) attached to the cradle through which the handbrake cable runs. I basically removed the welded thin tube (which left the brake cable free) and replaced both with stainless 'home fabricated' brackets that simply bolt into the cradle (drilled and tapped a 6mm thread for each bracket).


Here is how I did it:

Firstly support the car under the main jacking points (assuming they are OK - I used a large timber beam with rubber pads under the jack points (had recently stripped/repainted those!).

I had the advantage of a pit that I supported the car over but provided you lift the back high enough there should still be enough clearance to drop the cradle.

Next remove the complete suspension assemblies/links but leave the calipers connected - I supported them on heavy wire hooked through the bolt holes in the turret top.

Withdraw the driveshaft assemblies complete - not difficult if you take care with the removal of the locking pins - then remove all the heatshields attached to, and in close proximity to the cradle. It also makes life easier if you remove the exhaust and cat/link pipe depending on your car.

With the engine/cradle assembly pretty clear of attachments, I then drained the oil and removed the sump. I had also removed the anti-roll bar by then (yes that can also be extracted but it's tight!) - when I did that I was yet to decide to remove the cradle - of course it will come off with the cradle anyway.

You then need to make a support to take the weight of the engine on the machined flanges of the sump - a couple of heavy timbers cut to size then joined to make a 'T' piece will work - just make sure that they are about the girth of a railway sleeper! You may need to sand the top of the T piece to sit flush with the engine flange (oh, don't forget to unbolt the oil pump filter!) and then position the support in place, shimming the base with thin ply wedges if you need to tighten any gap.

Almost there!

Unbolt the gearbox mount/plates from the cradle. Then I made an additional support to take the load off the front of the gearbox with an old cast aluminium bracket. At this point you have the engine, gearbox and car body all supported in the correct position relative to each other, and the cradle can now be loosened. I had also removed my old aircon pipes which you may find helpful. Just the 6 bolts hold the cradle on, but it took some levering to free it from the turret mounting point - just leave the bolts partly in whilst you pry it free so that it holds on the bolts as it drops.

Seems a bit involved but it does work and allows access to all those areas inaccessible with the cradle in place. Putting it back was interesting! I had a little difficulty getting the protrusions on the turret bolt mounting to seat in the corresponding recess in the turret, but I probably had a little too much paint on them! Still, I did all of this single handedly so if you can coopt a little help I'm sure it would be easier.




Hope this is helpful.

Paul T

Only thing I will say is that the two locating dowels into the turrets can be a bigger to get in .This is because the frame relaxes a bit when removed .Get one side in then,with the dowel aligned front to rear load the other side with a jack and hit it from the side .Lump of wood and a lump hammer .Take the shocker off so you can give it a direct hit square from the side .

Edging forward with this. Spent this afternoon cleaning out the upper-side of the offside rear wishbone, getting it as clean as possible (including removing all the grit that collects there) and then applying Kurust. Also applied Kurust to the lower wheel arch pocket and engine mounts. Basically the bits that a wire brush or Dremel can't reach well.

Boring post I know with no-pics, but that's progress.

Oh yes and does anyone know the fitting sizes for a KL21 filter, and the other end that fits to the fuel pump? The fuel pump fitment looks like a banjo job but I've not taken it apart to find out.

More done today. Nearside largely where I want it in terms of getting back to a good solid surface and a lot of Kurust applied - mostly to the car, but quite a bit on me. Next stage, more painting.

I need to inject some wax into the subframe at the rear too. Interesting that the upper part of the cradle is left open at the leading edge meaning water can get in. Bit of a design flaw unless I'm missing the plastic end stopper?

On with the 121 epoxy today on the nearside. Front and rear suspension now all coated together with the majority of the front subframe. Still need to lower the undertray and get at the very front end and centre stuff.

Plus the calipers were looking pretty bad so all cleaned up and high-temp gold applied.

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I'm not usually one for gold, but I think it works with the red as Jon proved with the wheels on the Evolution Fleischman Widebody.

If you don't like it..........

[mettersl]

Best get the wheels refinished in gold too then Darren, works on Impreza's

Nah bit gauche. Bit like all gold rolex in my view.

Moved a bit further today. I ordered up some 6mm thick aluminium to make up some bits:

Firstly in the rear arches there are open box sections that bolt through to the rear under the seats. These tend to rot away, so have been replaced with washers, but I wanted something to also use for a bracket for the rear fuel filter and plastic cover for the filter and pump that had somehow just been resting in place.

So you can see the mark from the original:

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Made up these. sprayed up in black.

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Fitted:

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So what's the long one for you might ask? Well does your Alpine suffer from a sagging front undertray? Disconnected at the moment, but this will go across to support the weight of the tray and also the big fat rubber waterpipes that tend to weight it down. I need to drill a hole on the upper surface of the passenger side. Strangely there are holes on both sides of the car in a good location to use, but they're blind on the passenger side and open on the drivers side - weird.

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Anyway I'll do that next time.

Also managed to get the ride height at the front exactly as I want it. Gaz shocks but with standard springs, so it'll be interesting to see how well it now works and whether I can play to get the damping right. (Gaz with Gaz is too hard in my view as I've said before)