Rotor Arm

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby clee » Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:07 pm

? The assembly or just the triangular bit ? its in two parts ,rotor triangular bit and the other attached to the cam sprocket.Pics required I think .
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:16 pm

sorry not very clear

10mm allen key bolt is out of the triangular rotor arm holder shown in turbodogs picture. The triangular rotor arm holder moves out and off its locating pin and spins freely. It moves forward but then stops,. So I cannot remove the triangular rotor arm mounting plate even though the allen key bolt in undone, but the plate is not stuck onto the shaft as moves forward

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby clee » Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:28 pm

If its off the roll pin it should be free.I think we missing something here.I shall grab a few pics in the am
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:12 am

Yes it's off the roll pin. It lifts off and then spins freely but won't pull off ? Seems to be catching ? I'll emai you a pic and try to take some video to email you tonight.
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby JohnC » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:11 am

clee wrote:.Another issue may be that the two metal parts are stuck together ,timing roll pin sticks and also the general male/female .Worst case you may have to take the ali housing off,2 x 13mm bolts and pull the assembly through the seal .Seal will be knackered after and make sure you dont turn the lump etc whilst it is off for fear of a sprocket popping off cam .

It looks to me Lee, that you have hit the nail on the head here.
Having removed the bolt, the mating face shown in turbodog's pic is siezed, and in the pulling the triangular flange, the whole assembly has detached itself from the end of the cam shaft and sprocket. What is now stopping it, is that the conical piece (pic 1 item 3) is up against the seal (item 6). If this is the case, as Lee said, the whole assembly will have to be removed as the seal will now be damaged. However, looking at pic 2 below, it looks as if you cannot get to the 2 bolts holding the casing to the head as they are behind the inner shield (just to the right of item 7 in pic). In my view, somehow you are going to have to force the triangular flange off by using a couple of levers. on either side of the flange. Item 3 will be hard up against the seal, but as you are going to have to replace it anyway, further damage to the seal is no problem.
The cross sectional pic of the whole assembly, pic 2, should help you to see what is going on here. The flange is marked by "forward slash markings" and the conical piece is marked by "backward slash markings". And it is where those two pieces meet that appears to seized just in front of the seal.
I know it is not easy to get to, but if you can, it might be worth pulling the flange out as far as it will come, and somehow tap around the flange to see if it will release itself.
I hope this helps in some way or another. :)

Just remember Lee's warning above about not turning the engine whilst the conical piece is detached from the cam shaft. :up

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:58 am

Thanks John
When I push the rotor mount back on it seats itself back in and locks again . I assumed that was the locating pin going back in and therefore it had no siezed into the other part or is that not the case. Is there another bit further down that locates and locks out ?

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:02 am

Just got a pic from Lee and it all makes sense now . Yes looks like cone piece further down has come off as you said as there is a locating key on there as well ! I think I can get the distributor casing off as looks like two bolts within the casing , which are pretty rusted up
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby JohnC » Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:37 am

Wrightbr wrote: I think I can get the distributor casing off as looks like two bolts within the casing , which are pretty rusted up

Ah good ... if you can get the inner distributor casing past the flange, then yes ... you should be able to remove the two bolts .... a bit of Plus Gas, or WD40 sprayed on them as soon as you can before undoing the bolts might help. Otherwise, lever off the flange .... the seal has to be replaced anyway, then you should be able to get to the bolts.
BTW .... I have never seen inside the distributor ..... is the inner casing plastic or metal ? ...... my thinking is that it is plastic, but if you could help with the info, I would appreciate it. ;)

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:22 pm

Inner casing is already off. Came off past rotor plate no worries so I hav access to the bolts . It is plastic .

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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:27 pm

Also I will try and take as many pics as possible and document pitfalls etc after for future reference with part numbers etc
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby JohnC » Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:47 pm

Wrightbr wrote:Inner casing is already off. Came off past rotor plate no worries so I have access to the bolts . It is plastic .

At last ... a bit of good news ..... and thanks for the info. :up
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby turbodog » Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:03 pm

The part number for the oil seal is 7700260074 hope this helps Andrew
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:12 pm

It's now apart. Took some force to get all out with the seal but now out.

The two halves if the rotor mount were indeed welded together with rust . Took me 20 mins in a vice to get them apart so I could take off the dizzy casing .

Rotor bolts are really corroded into mount , they would not even shift with loads of wd 40 in a vice with a set of mole grips.
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby turbodog » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:27 pm

Send me your address and i will send you the rotor mount in the photo i posted if you need it Andrew
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Re: Rotor Arm

Postby Wrightbr » Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:33 pm

Thanks Andrew . I have sent u a message

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