E200JVV GTA TURBO Resto

Tee Hee! Imagine the luxury of not looking at the rev counter and glancing to check what gear you're in and reading the mind table of 'revs in ? gear = X mph ' every time you spot a rozzer or a speed camera,

Steady now Ryan ..... we are not there yet.
What we do know is that the actual Speedo motor works from the small connector on the board, and that the speedo board does convert the pulses to voltage to drive the motor.
What we still don't know is if the speed sensor works, and if so, are the pulses getting to the board.
It might be worth getting out your meter again, and identifying, on the larger 6 pin connector on the board, the two pins that come from the sensor via all the connectors. The two pins you want are the first two after the white plastic locating stud. The first is a Brown wire with the screen attached, and the other is the next one ... Yellow wire. I am assuming that the colours are the same as my jig, but as long as you get their positions right, all will be well. See pic below.
With your meter across those two pins you should get approx 1.6 to 2 Ohms. That will check the continuity of the loop. If this is OK, then assuming the sensor is working, then the speedo should work.
I will be posting the board back to you sometime this week.

.......... and if I can get the fuel gauge something like I'll know when to put fuel in instead of ' hang on,.....

Now ........ do you remember this which I posted to you on the 28th December:-

You may recall my PM, reference checking the Fuel Sensor out of the tank, well, having tested that, and the sensor back in place, it would be worth checking the resistance at the sensor with whatever fuel quantity you have in the tank .... it should be between the values I gave you. Now you can check if you have continuity from the computer plug, through the sensor and back, which should give you the same reading +/- an ohm or so.
Now here comes the difficult bit for me ..... I have to explain what two pins of the connector are the ones to do the check on.
Looking at the pin view, hold the connector in the portrait position, now orientate it to have the top two row of with 3 pins each, the next row below having two pins with a blank in the middle, finally you should have 3 pins in the bottom row.
The two going to the fuel sensor are, the middle pin of the top row, and the middle pin of the second row.

Did you get a chance to check this out yet ?

John

Working speedo board plus working speedo head plus correct resistance values from the sensor equals ...................you guessed a big fat zero!.......nowt......nothing.........no miles per hour what jolly fun in the snow !
The search continues !

How very disappointing Ryan ....... It might be worth checking that you have 12v on the speedo board ..... refer to my pic in my last post ... top 6 pin connector, Red and Black at the far end. 12v when you switch the ign on.

John, I is well confused ,
Just blew the fuse when I touched meter on red top pin, earthed on door post bolt head.
Dark now so I'm jacking it in, end up more damage than good.

That's the way it goes sometimes ... Hey Ho
Once the fuse is replaced, the meter must be across the RED & BLACK wires to check properly.
By using the door post, you are not checking the earth return from the board.
Say the earth is broken ...... with your probe on the red wire, and the black on the door post, you will get a 12v reading on your meter, but there would not be 12v powering the board.
Hope that makes sense.

John

Just checked only 11.6v , battery is good at 12.4v at the posts, car running two hours ago.

.

[The Saint]

Well if the Club could not go as far as funding it.... I would be prepaired to.. and as Mr Faullks has said... it would be helpful to all the members. Just a thought... but a bloody good one!!

Yeh ,that;d be right ,squeeze out the struggling grease monkeys .......No ,joshing, good idea and the Club should do it not a single member .Does it need a vote ? Just get it done .
I keep a set of sensors ,ecu etc for just such purposes but can't lend them out .Club members always welcome to pop up and use on site though .

[The Saint]

"I'll come up there and slap you !!"""

I was thinking you would be a good place to keep it... as you would use it more than anyone else... plus it may encourage others to service there too!!! Sheesh!! I just cannot please you!!
*Sticks tounge out at ya!!* ( not done a smile for that!! )

Just like a club XR25 reader with all the cards, a spare set of golden ecus for all the vehicles, abs boxes etc etc... now that would be useful...

Is that the briefcase one. 'cos we had one of those but it got lent and never returned, if I know what you want then I know what to scrounge, is XR25 a generic term for the Renault testing jiggler and more than one model etc ? I also know someone who had the reet big thing .............
Thing is do I invest in a scope to see if I'm getting a signal from sensor at the dash............? Or do I run a 12v batt straight to the speedo live and an earth, i.e why am I losing 0.8v at the dash? I noticed when I was faulting the door openers that I only had 11.6v there and put it down to the battery going down in the meter, I was only looking for live and earth.
Scope wise there are some little nano things with a 2.8" screen at about fifty squid? Or is it cheaper to buy a new sensor, must share with R25, then a new screened cable back to front..........its gotta give in sometime !

Thing is do I invest in a scope to see if I'm getting a signal from sensor at the dash............? Or do I run a 12v batt straight to the speedo live and an earth, i.e why am I losing 0.8v at the dash? I noticed when I was faulting the door openers that I only had 11.6v there and put it down to the battery going down in the meter, I was only looking for live and earth.

I would not worry about the very slightly lower voltage as when the engine is running the battery voltage will rise to around 14.5v. I actually run my test jig at 12v .... 0.4v lower will have no significant effect.
But if you are concerned about it, it might be an idea to clean the battery terminals and the point where the battery earth is bolted to the body just in front of the battery.

Scope wise there are some little nano things with a 2.8" screen at about fifty squid? Or is it cheaper to buy a new sensor, must share with R25, then a new screened cable back to front..........its gotta give in sometime !

Ryan ..... I would have suggested borrowing a sensor and trying it long before now .... in fact one of the first things to try .... but unfortunately, as you have replaced the connector, it was not an option, as no one would have been pleased that the OE connector would have to be cut off.
But now having got this far, having tested the speedo board, the speedo its self, and made sure that there is 12v on the board, then I think the best way forward is to replace the sensor, but I think you are going to have to purchase one yourself. The only thing you must check is that it is the same body length ... I am sure it will be, but please check.
And yes, if still no go. then run a twin screened cable direct from the sensor to the speedo board.
If you are going for a 'scope, would suggest that you choose an auto ranging one, (like mine) as if you have to set it up, that could be a bit of a problem .... much more complicated than just setting the correct range of resistance/voltage on a DVM ...... but try the sensor first, then, if necessary, the cable.

John

Okay Dokey John, not guilty on sensor connector as it was chopped off and hard wired then wrapped in a Mr Kiplings foil pie case ( mince pie by the taste of it ) by previous parties unknown and I had to cut it when I dropped the rear sub, I added the connector for future maintenance.
I'll have to weigh up the price of a new sensor against a scope which will look impressive in the toolbox but likely see little use and I may still need a new sensor, ebay is not throwing up any R25 items so some chin scratching req'd. Wonder who I know who's got a scope?

Okay Dokey John, not guilty on sensor connector as it was chopped off and hard wired then wrapped in a Mr Kiplings foil pie case ( mince pie by the taste of it ) by previous parties unknown and I had to cut it when I dropped the rear sub, I added the connector for future maintenance.

Sorry Ryan .... My mistake .....I was under the impression that you fitted the connector after you had trouble with the speedo.

John

.Perhaps this points to one or two of John's signal injector / checkers being owned by the club, appropriately paid for out of club funds,

An interesting concept Martin.
I have just done a big write up on the practicalities of this, and on reading it back in review, realised that most members would glaze over by the 5th line.
In all fairness and with respect to all our members, I can't see the average owner interpreting a 'scope readout, or being able to set up the generator to apply the correct frequency and amplitude to trigger a speedo board.
A really nice idea but I can't see it working, unfortunately.
However, if anyone wants to have a go with the Function Generator, it is in kit form from Maplins.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/function-generator-kit-n42fl

Sorry to pour water over this idea, but in my view, more problems could be caused than cures.

John