Carburetor Problems

[BIG_MVS]

Give it a long hard squirt of this and you will be laughing John!



Happy new year everyone by the way!

[johnb]

If only it was that simple Martin.
Maybe it is, might try a can.
Needed a humorous injection, maybe that's the answer.
Happy new Year to all.

[johnb]

Since I last posted on this thread I’ve rechecked everything which just confirmed that all seemed to be in order. The only adjustment I’ve made is to the points dwell and static timing, which were both slightly out.

So an attempt to start was made yesterday with only slight opening of the throttle. After 3 or 4 goes it fired and kept running, first time since 1988! Progress at last. This was on petrol alone, fortunately without the aid of Nulon engine starter. Other than the slight dwell and timing corrections I think the main reason it wouldn’t start previously was because it was flooded.

I let it run for about an hour so that it was up to temperature and the radiator cooling fans were cycling on and off. Oil pressure was good (2 bar at 1000 rpm and almost 6 bar at 2000 rpm) and the coolant temperature stabilised just below 90 deg. C. Only took the revs up to 4000 rpm in short bursts and there weren’t any odd noises.

Need to do a few more static runs to fine tune the ignition and idle mixture settings and check the alternator output, etc. Then, unless other issues arise; assemble all the bits that have been left off until the engine was running and, fingers crossed, get the MOT booked. Hope that I'm not tempting providence.

Well done John..... your perseverance has paid off. . Glad to hear it was nothing too serious.
Just for the record, I always give the throttle a small kick once I have started cranking (NEVER before), which seems to help the engine to fire..... this applies to most.. if not, all... carburettor engines.
However, if an engine with a carb in known good condition, does not fire as it usually does, the chances are that it has flooded, sometimes for no apparant reason, then the method I decribed above should enable the engine to fire...... it works for me.
Anyway, good luck with your MOT, and let us know how you get on once you are out on the road and screeming around the countryside.

John

[johnb]

Well done John..... your perseverance has paid off. . Glad to hear it was nothing too serious.
Just for the record, I always give the throttle a small kick once I have started cranking (NEVER before), which seems to help the engine to fire..... this applies to most.. if not, all... carburettor engines.
John

By coincidence, the engine did fire as I held the throttle slightly open whilst cranking.

It's fortunate, in some ways, that I'd not assembled the front boot liner, heater fan, fan and screen wash bottle covers so that I could view the heater once the engine was running. I did this so that I could check for any coolant leaks at the hoses once the engine was running. Today I did some visual checking and noticed that the heater matrix has a small leak shown up by some coolant in the passenger footwell. So I spoke too soon and tempted providence.

The heater originally in the car had several leaks and I bought the one in the car now secondhand a couple of years ago. I seem to remember pressure testing it at the time without leaks. Anyway, it has to come out again . More perseverance required.

By the way, the choke operated as it should yesterday when the engine was running; slowly turning to the vertical position as the coolant temperature increased.

By the way, the choke operated as it should yesterday when the engine was running; slowly turning to the vertical position as the coolant temperature increased.

Thats good news...... but, what I would do, if you have not done this already, is remove the choke mechanism cover on the off side of the carb and put a small drop of oil on to each pivot and shaft... allow to work its way in, then spray the mechanism with WD40, I do this every so often (ie:- say once a year).

[johnb]

...... but, what I would do, if you have not done this already, is remove the choke mechanism cover on the off side of the carb and put a small drop of oil on to each pivot and shaft... allow to work its way in, then spray the mechanism with WD40, I do this every so often (ie:- say once a year).

Good idea John, preventative maintenance. Just added it to the list of things to do.

[BIG_MVS]

Nice one John

Are you able to join us on the 26th for our annual January meet?

Hi John,

It's good to hear you have got it going. I look forward to seeing the results.

Cheers
Rob

[johnb]

Nice one John

Are you able to join us on the 26th for our annual January meet?

Can't make it Martin, but thanks for asking.

Hi John,

It's good to hear you have got it going. I look forward to seeing the results.

Cheers
Rob

Thanks Rob, just need to sort this leaking heater and whatever else might show up after that. As it hasn't turned a wheel since 88 there's plenty of scope for more issues to arise.

Hi Gareth
My car is fitted with a Weber DGAS, as used in the 3.0 litre Capri etc.
Uses the standard manifold with an adaptor plate to fit it where the larger carb normally resides, and the mounting for the little original carb simply blanked off. Mine has the water temp driven auto choke. The car goes like a cut cat.
I can check the jet sizes for you if you are interested - email me at purches@kinect.co.nz.
There is another car in New Zealand set up the same way - it works really well.
Cheers
Graeme

Hi Gareth
My car is fitted with a Weber DGAS, as used in the 3.0 litre Capri etc.
Uses the standard manifold with an adaptor plate to fit it where the larger carb normally resides, and the mounting for the little original carb simply blanked off. Mine has the water temp driven auto choke. The car goes like a cut cat.
I can check the jet sizes for you if you are interested - email me at purches@kinect.co.nz.
There is another car in New Zealand set up the same way - it works really well.
Cheers
Graeme

Graeme,

Nice conversion, is that like the 40 DFA (twin barrel, non-progressive) carb, believe that was also used on the Ford V6's as well, ah just been digging, DGAS has the additional power valve...

Great input

Cheers,
Martin

[johnb]

Hi Gareth
My car is fitted with a Weber DGAS, as used in the 3.0 litre Capri etc.

Cheers
Graeme

Hi Graeme,
Were you able to use the original air filter housing with the Weber carb., perhaps modified ?

John

I bought a GTA Carb model earlier this year. I have problems with the standard carb which has a small flat spot on 1500 revs. I have taken it to a garage where he said I would need a wax stat as choke does not work, which I cannot source.

Can anyone suggest anything to help or maybe an alternative solution.

It is a pity this thread has gone underground so we dont know what is going on, so I am reluctant to put my tuppence worth in. :cry:

I'd be interested in anything related to carb set-up/experience as I'm still on the learning curve with the A310.

I would also like to hear as the choke on my A310 hasn't worked properly for the 7 years that I have had the car, even though it has had a new wax thing before I purchased the cat.
Rob

Does anybody know what the outcome was of this request for help to cure the flat spot problem ...... it seems a few members were interested in this particular subject.

[johnb]

I bought a GTA Carb model earlier this year. I have problems with the standard carb which has a small flat spot on 1500 revs. I have taken it to a garage where he said I would need a wax stat as choke does not work, which I cannot source.

Can anyone suggest anything to help or maybe an alternative solution.

It is a pity this thread has gone underground so we dont know what is going on, so I am reluctant to put my tuppence worth in. :cry:

I'd be interested in anything related to carb set-up/experience as I'm still on the learning curve with the A310.

I would also like to hear as the choke on my A310 hasn't worked properly for the 7 years that I have had the car, even though it has had a new wax thing before I purchased the cat.
Rob

Does anybody know what the outcome was of this request for help to cure the flat spot problem ...... it seems a few members were interested in this particular subject.

John - I haven't heard anything outside of this Forum topic.

Gareth / AreTee - It might be worth checking the wax element in the single choke carb to see if it is actually not working. Its housing is attached near the top of the carb with 2 screws and has an inlet and outlet hose. Once the housing is detached the wax element can be pulled from the housing. Check the condition of the O ring where the wax element end fits into the housing. There is also a gasket between the housing and the carb which should be checked. As the wax element is probably the highest point in the coolant system you might not need to drain down any coolant before removing the element. Put the wax element in boiling water and the 'pin' end of the unit should be seen moving out from the assembly and stopping in an extended position. On cooling it retracts again.

With the wax element housing off also check if there is any sludge in the housing and in the inlet and outlet hoses. There could be a blockage in the hoses preventing coolant flow to the wax element. Also check the hoses at the lower butterfly housing as the coolant passes through this housing before going to the wax element. There might be a blockage in those hoses or the butterfly housing itself. You might be able to check all the hoses by blowing through just the 2 hoses that connect to the wax element housing, saving some dismantling.

If you need a new wax element Simon Auto have one but at a price. Possibly a reflection of low volume production.

http://www.simon-auto-shop.com/shop/cgi ... ieterID=16

This link isn't taking you direct to the part so just type 031025 in the box at the top lhs to see the detail and the price.