GTA Turbo - running issue

I'm currently using Champion S6YC plugs set at 0.8mm gap.
Havent changed these for 12 months or so, but to be honest I only did about a 1000 miles last year if that.

I'm not a big Champion fan, NGK through and through, but hey ho. I would run them closed up a little at 0.6mm, and see how you get on at that. It will give your rotor arm and dizzy cap a slightly easier time as well.

Martin[/quote

So you recommend closing the gap slightly, does this not reduce the flame front, does this not reduce power due to a less efficient combustion chamber burn?

I am not saying your wrong Martin, I am just keen to learn the reasons behind it, or is this something you have found to be ok through real life experience/trial and error?

Cheers

Si21

Hi Simon,

Later.. results on the rollers, and general running. If you are on the OE single coil pack you are on a limited energy budget, better to have a strong short spark than a weak long one... it's all about heat intensity, not that the spark jumps from one side of the chamber to the other. In fact, the orientation of the plug earth strap will have more effect on performance within this gap range than the gap... if you are really serious about it you will index your plugs as well...

Yes if you close it up too much it will expose less fuel air to be ionised, and hence weaken the initial kernel, but you have to close it up a lot. The over-riding thing in this case is the limited amount of energy from the OE coil pack... hence my comment, recommendation and how I run them, works good for me chap

If you have modern coils and drivers, and consequently a good margin of excess energy, then sure widen them back up, but I'll put a full English on it, you won't pick up much worth talking about

Cheers,
Martin

Cheers Martin

Simon

Afraid to admit that it was more a case of cost rather than preference; NGKs cost around 40 quid compared to Champions at 15.
But, perhaps this time I'll use NGK at 0.6mm as most owners seem to opt for this type.

Has anyone used the Bosch 4 electrode jobs?

Paul, while you are checking over and replacing the distributor cap, it might be worth checking if there is any oil traces in the cap which could be due to a worn oil seal around the shaft which drives the rotor........ If I remember rightly, there have been problems in the cap due to these seals going hard. If the cap is clean, then there is nothing to worry about...... well worth checking though.
John

Has anyone used the Bosch 4 electrode jobs?

Don't, please...

Don't worry I wasn't- just saw them in Halfords when I went in to pick up oil and thought I'd ask!

Paul, while you are checking over and replacing the distributor cap, it might be worth checking if there is any oil traces in the cap which could be due to a worn oil seal around the shaft which drives the rotor........ If I remember rightly, there have been problems in the cap due to these seals going hard. If the cap is clean, then there is nothing to worry about...... well worth checking though.
John

Mine is weeping John and has done ever since I've owned the car.
Bit loathed to take off the rotor stub piece etc.; Andrew has talked me through the process and for now I'll leave it as it's not affecting the cap or rotor. But if it gets worse than yes I will need to address that.

Mine is weeping John and has done ever since I've owned the car.

Paul, its worth keeping a close eye on it as it is dirty oil that seeps through which has a degree of carbon in it (the blackness in the oil). And as you know, carbon conducts and there is a very high voltage whipping around in the cap so the leaked old oil is doing no favours for smooth running of the Alp. If you are not going to replace the seal, I would suggest keeping the cap and rotor clean by wiping it out every so often.

See my other rather older posts on running when hot problems mate

[Alpineandy]

Has anyone used the Bosch 4 electrode jobs?

Don't, please...

Why?