Martin’s PRV bone yard…

Which hose do you need?

The mucho expensivo Samco one I bought and paid for in August last year from Mr Dell.

Admittedly the standard one didn't fit my new larger turbo, so it went back to El Presidente. I requested if Samco could supply a larger outlet diameter... multiple text/calls since and I'm still sat here, out of pocket, no hose.

Stephen... please, please can I have some form of response? As mentioned, I'm willing to pay a little extra (even though the complete hose kit I bought was a lot of money originally). Who has the hose I sent back to you? Samco or yourself? What have thy said about manufacturing a new hose: possible, impossible? Is it going to cost more money? Will they take back the old one? How long will it take? Etc, etc, etc, etc.

[stephendell]

Basically they will replace the standard one on a like for like basis albeit reluctantly as they say the orignal has no leaks and is a hand made product so there will be variations in the finish.

A bespoke new hose would cost £££ it's not just as simple as changing the diameter one end as they are made by wrapping round a metal former.

In addition we have asked to change the original design anyway to incorporate a hump to mimic the bellows section of the OEM item to allow the flex of the original hose and prevent the collapse of the Samco product we have seen on occasion.

I'm guessing your solution will incorporate a joiner of some sort. I'll chase up.

[stephendell]

BTW always phone if you can. I only saw this because John let me know. Contrary to popular belief I don't get a chance to read every post in every thread although this is quite an interesting one so prob would have noticed eventually!

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Paul,

I think your simplest solution will be a Samco Xtreme Straight Reducer hose, Demon Tweeks et al do them. 3" down to what ever the Renault section is ,which I think was 2.5 inch from memory, but JonV can confirm as we had to sort his out. I don't have any pictures, sorry. If you are sucking it flat, then you probably have a restrictive are filter making things worse, get the largest barrel K&N air filter in the air cleaner box / housing. Again JV should be able to help you out on details, the OE box and piping was used on Jon's with only the link to the turbo and the filter changes, and this worked more than adequately for Jon.

Regards,
Martin

Thanks Martin, I had a chat with JonV on the phone earlier - it's a good plan B if Samco don't come through.

Stephen, I've called you a number of times, and I've been leaving comments in threads where you have been replying on other comments (hence you must be reading)... but anyways, I appreciate the response and the fact that you are chasing up with Samco, thank-you.

They maybe be "reluctant" but the quality was not up to scratch (handmade or otherwise). Again, I am willing to add £ as I fully appreciate I'm asking for a modification... if only I could decrypt what £££ actually meant (£10, £100, £1000?).

I understand how they make the hoses wrapping around a former, but surely it wouldn't take a rocket scientist to add some material to the former (increasing/tapering in diameter towards the turbo inlet)? Perhaps I'm asking too much, in which case if they just let me know, I'll throw the hose (when I get it back) onto eBay and go source/build my own solution.

[stephendell]

think your simplest solution will be a Samco Xtreme Straight Reducer hose

I think that is the sort of solution they will be coming up with but at cost price.

Teglen:
You could try this supplier.

http://www.lhss.co.uk/silicone-hoses/re ... ducer.html

I bought hoses from them and the sales guy, Ian Walsh from memory, was helpful. I'm assuming that it's a straight reducer you need and you can see they have a large selection.

[stephendell]

I think the issue is that there is an expensive existing hose and any adaptor hose should really match as they were made in special order classic black.

If you are sucking it flat, then you probably have a restrictive are filter making things worse

The new hoses don't have any bellows and are fixed to a rigid point (airbox) on the body, so if there is any extreme movement of the engine in relation to the body it stretches the hose which over time weakens it and potentially causes collapse compounded perhaps by factors such as that above. I've personally only had this problem on one of my old cars and a piece of drainpipe inside the hose worked wonders but shouldn't really be necessary on an expensive silicone hose. Hence trying to get a hump or bellows section re-introduced to the former as per OEM.

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Morning both,

Well the best thing to do if you want to get accurate numbers, is to measure the rolling circumference (jack up and string or tape), and weigh car and driver. Especially in your case JV as you have gone fully loaded with all the air con anchor weight..

So have we got enough people interested to do Bruntingthorpe this year?

There must be a few Darren and Teglen (that's got to be a good head-to-head), Trevor, JonV (will it get you home with a clutch ), Smithy (bring all the torque you can ), Law's (come on, not much to finish now , needs a birthday!), Dell (21 comp car out for fresh air?), Bob (come on let's see it go bi-turbo A310), Will if he's finished..., Cedric.. with the help of the guardian angels.., Eddie (24V... are you still receiving radio Netherlands?), Miles (bi-turbo, come on you know you want too!), A610 and Venture boys, Johnb (before you send it off for paint), more for more, must be some l have missed.. hopefully I'll have had F50 done and dusted as it's supposed to be going to Macon!

Food for thought,
Martin

definitely interested, better get on with it then

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Hi Andrea,

Glad to see you are back on the Fenix 3A did you keep the knock sensor fitted last time when you were running on your turbo? Can I ask if you could kindly send me those bin files again, and the 25 phase 2 file was it that you thought was a better starting point for forced induction over the n/a bins? I would really appreciate it - lost in my crashed hdd... I’m back to the blue turbo car now the engine is re-assembled…
Martin

This Fenix 3A will be for the atmo friend car, in this case i think we'll just need to tweek VE and timing table, and rpm... and with Fenix 3A is knowed where to and enought !

Yes, on my turbo engine i have the knock sensor installed, the 2 from the safrane biturbo originals. With the Fenix 3A i used just one of them.
If you remember, now i was running with a Fenix 3A of a R25, but with a BIN of R25T 205cv wich is Fenix 3B, inside,and remapped. It works good BUT i'm quite sure it uses different settings for temperature sensors, cause it works good just in the summer and in winter is really difficult to start it and it does not make a cold enrichment. This is why i went to megasquirt... it start well in cold and hot now, but i'm having some difficult time to map it and behave "round" like the Fenix !

I have also the original Safrane Biturbo Fenix 3B, this would be great to use and perfect for me, 2 knock input, low imp. injector out, but the code is eprom locked and i really don't find anywhere HOW to unlock in the eprom or making a modify to the ecu board... i'm really not able to make it boot. Has anyone idea how to unlock this Fenix 3B ? I asked to peoples in France, but they send me just a photo of a modify of a LATE fenix 3B wich was little different then mine
I send you the files and bin again, let me know!

Hi Andrea,

I hope you still drop by... looking for some help and clarification on the 3A.

Right, many years back I bought a Siemens Fenix 3A ecu - S101260101 from R25 V6 n/a non-cat, with a 330A ver 04 BIN from MacFly Electronics at the early stages of my F50 project.

Now Philippe stated that this was setup for the following:

throttle pot
mixture pot
idle valve
NTC sensors
3 bar MAP sensor

I wanted to check with you whether you ran your installation with NTC sensors or you used PTC - water and air temp sensors?

Do you have an original OE bin file on the same 330A software version - address 04h? Reason I ask, is the S101260101 is stated in the MRINJR manual PTC sensors not NTC.. so there must be some difference, and not just SIL resistors?

I would also like to compare the PCB electronics with mine, as I have some looked at a few of these boards with various differences, especially around RC16, and D37 positions.

Any help and insights would be great, as indeed a high res picture of your S1012600101 pcb would also be great!

Many thanks,
Martin

Reason I ask, is the S101260101 is stated in the MRINJR manual PTC sensors not NTC.. so there must be some difference, and not just SIL resistors?

Andrea et al (indeed any one with these boards) note, that the SIL resistors I have in my board are p/n:

S101027-018A (IH9-1), and
S101027-065A (IH8-5)

what SIL numbers do you have?

Thanks,
Martin

Hello Martin, i follow here as usually
I'm busied this days with work, as soon i have some time i'll take out the fenix 3A ( i have 2 now, one was for my car, and one is used on the atmo prep i did for the friend's car ) and make some photos and check.
I just got a wideband Innovate LC-1 controller, wich is programmable output, and i would like to setup it to dial to the 3A CO pot or lambda input.
I also got the OSTRICH 2 rom emulator, and i did just a quick test with tunerpro for the realtime emulation, and it works. So easy to make real time correction to the map no more run, take out, erase, try another value, burn, run again...lol
It would be good to see also the real time data in tunerpro ( rpm, fuel map position etc ) but i think that for this i need to connect also the data output of the fenix with the ttl/usb converter at 62500baud right ?

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Hi Andrea

Much appreciated, pictures would be good.

Sounds like you are making good progress. I haven't used the real time emulation within turner pro, as my prom emulator isn't supported. It cost me a small fortune many years ago - Orgler Electronics from Italy (goes back to Integrate Weber Marelli ecu hacking in the day...), and so I'm sticking with it! Laugh....

I though with the setup you now have, if you setup RT correctly, you will now have the cells access live in either the map tables or the map 3d display. So you have directly the rpm and pressure points, albeit you are looking at the closest 4 cell matrix.

I think the Lambda feedback may be of limited use really, except idle and very low load, as the ecu comes out of closed loop control at a set load / rpm point. I don't have the address locations for that or the values unfortunately. I don't know if you managed to get any help out of the French guys in the end?

Please also check what base versions of the BIN files, anything ver 330 would be interesting to compare. I don't know what the true origin of the 330A is ie what car? Is there a list of these BIN versions and their original application, does anyone know?

As to my 3A board's, I have 100R in RC16, D37 removed, 10k in RC18, D30 removed, and an IN4148 in D36. Please let me know how that matches up?

Thanks,
Martin

Ps yep you would need to extract the values from the serial data stream, I have only seen the guys with the much later ecus do that . I'll have a look for the details.

Hello Martin, i follow here as usually
I'm busied this days with work, as soon i have some time i'll take out the fenix 3A ( i have 2 now, one was for my car, and one is used on the atmo prep i did for the friend's car ) and make some photos and check.
I just got a wideband Innovate LC-1 controller, wich is programmable output, and i would like to setup it to dial to the 3A CO pot or lambda input.
I also got the OSTRICH 2 rom emulator, and i did just a quick test with tunerpro for the realtime emulation, and it works. So easy to make real time correction to the map no more run, take out, erase, try another value, burn, run again...lol
It would be good to see also the real time data in tunerpro ( rpm, fuel map position etc ) but i think that for this i need to connect also the data output of the fenix with the ttl/usb converter at 62500baud right ?

Hi Andrea,

Further to the SIL resistors, and NTC / PTC sensor config, did you run a throttle pot with your 3A setup? This was when you were running the R25T 205CV BIN as well correct?

Thanks,
Martin

Hello Martin, i follow here as usually
I'm busied this days with work, as soon i have some time i'll take out the fenix 3A ( i have 2 now, one was for my car, and one is used on the atmo prep i did for the friend's car ) and make some photos and check.
I just got a wideband Innovate LC-1 controller, wich is programmable output, and i would like to setup it to dial to the 3A CO pot or lambda input.
I also got the OSTRICH 2 rom emulator, and i did just a quick test with tunerpro for the realtime emulation, and it works. So easy to make real time correction to the map no more run, take out, erase, try another value, burn, run again...lol
It would be good to see also the real time data in tunerpro ( rpm, fuel map position etc ) but i think that for this i need to connect also the data output of the fenix with the ttl/usb converter at 62500baud right ?

Hi Andrea,

Further to the SIL resistors, and NTC / PTC sensor config, did you run a throttle pot with your 3A setup? This was when you were running the R25T 205CV BIN as well correct?

Thanks,
Martin

Hello Martin !
here a pair of quick photos of a 3A i have here. i have 2, one with eprom socket, still in use in the atmo car now, and this one with the same renault code. when i was using the 3A i run the original red throttl pot. i am still using this kind of throttle pot too on my megasquirt setup.
i am quite sure i'm using PTC now on this 3A, while on the renix1 i have also i was using NTC.
This ECU has narrowband o2 input, i setup the innovate wideband controller LC1 NB (0-1V) output to the renix input, and... magic it worked we saw the lambda go to 14,7:1 and keeping it. good thing is that from the LC1 i can change this value, making different curve output of his 0-1volt, keeping the true wideband signal as reference.