Fuel Gauge Wiring Query

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Postby pgoldsmith » Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:41 pm

I've just spent the last half hour removing inner plastic boot and I cant find a connector that looks like the one in the photo. So sorry but I cant be much help on the wiring front.

Whilst I had everything out I though it would be a jolly good idea to remove my fuel sender float and give it a gentle shake.
Noticed there is what appears to be a spring in the fuel tank. Is this correct or has it come off the sender float ? :oops:
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Postby clee » Sat Feb 16, 2013 12:44 pm

:lol:


It's supposed to be on the end of the sender tube as a shock absorber .They always fall off ......
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Postby JohnC » Sat Feb 16, 2013 1:51 pm

pgoldsmith wrote:......I cant find a connector that looks like the one in the photo.

Paul, if you are saying that you can`t find the TSU assembly, it can be found on later Alps situated behind the Brake/Clutch fluid reservoir (see pic below No. 327) in order to remove it, its done more by feel than looking as it is tucked away attached to the wheel arch. The connector is at the bottom of the TSU and can be removed without removing the TSU its self, just grip the connector and push downwards.

Image

My sensor tank unit does not have a spring, but if, as LEE says, there is one, I can only suppose it is under the nut that holds the circular plate at the bottom of the tube, but if the spring were to drop off, I would expect there to be a plate, nut & spring in the tank, and the tube loose. Here is a pic of the component parts of a later type sensor.... the nut is in the middle of the circular lower plate.

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Postby blueg33 » Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:17 pm

As per Johns useful guide I have checked voltage and resistance (all are within tolerance)

The disconnected terminals were for the tank sender, and are now reconnected.

I also removed the metal tube (mine has a spring :) ) I didnt remove the float as the cap at the top of the tube was firmly stuck in the tube (i need to look at this this afternoon). I gave the tube a shake to hear the float move and re-installed.

Gauge now shows 18.7 galls which is more than it can officially hold!

grrrr
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Postby clee » Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:27 pm

:roll: :lol:

Try reset procedure ..disconnect bat hold down both buttons etc ..

Spring thing is just a push fit into the bottom ..it always falls off unless of course you actually want to take it off :D
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Postby blueg33 » Sat Feb 16, 2013 2:39 pm

So I have a reading of 18.7 galls, I found a thred where John says this means the timer relay is FUBAR, is that the case?

Can I buy such a relay, what codes does it have on it (I have some random relays from BigMVS)

Cheers

Nick

Update. 18.7 gals reading gone after reset, went back to 9.7 galls and is going down as I drive. I will see what happens
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Postby JohnC » Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:44 pm

blueg33 wrote: I found a thred where John says this means the timer relay is FUBAR, is that the case?

Don`t go off to get a new timer relay until you have checked its operation. Put meter lead on Yellow wire (other lead to earth)..... with ign off... no voltage, switch on ign..... 12 v appears on yellow wire, switch off ign..... if 12 v stays on yellow lead for around 30 or so secs then goes off.... the relay is OK.
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Postby JohnC » Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:58 pm

clee wrote:Spring thing is just a push fit into the bottom ..it always falls off unless of course you actually want to take it off :D

Just had a look st the parts list for the spring..... well you learn something everyday..... I have never actually taken my sensor tube out.... it has always worked,,,, but thanks to Lee, I now know what he and Paul are talking about. :D
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Postby pgoldsmith » Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:16 pm

So does it matter if the spring falls off? I suppose it just lies there but is there any danger of it fouling the outlet of the fuel tank ?

I know the sender is suppose to be set at 20 degrees, so if it's not at this angle then the reading will be inaccurate more than usual :lol:
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Postby BIG_MVS » Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:10 pm

blueg33 wrote:Update. 18.7 gals reading gone after reset, went back to 9.7 galls and is going down as I drive. I will see what happens


Sounds good Nick 8)

The funny thing is that Jon Viola only got rid of the car because his fuel guage didn't work :lol:

Or as Si21 would put it...

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Postby MFaulks » Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:45 pm

BIG_MVS wrote::lol: :lol: :lol: blah blah...:


Oh get over it Big M... how about doing something useful as a mod, and setting up a technical section with all of JohnC's posts nicely index? Eh.. bit of useful work for you lad, and given your IT skills all done in a jiffy I'm sure :wink: chop chop...

:lol:
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Postby MFaulks » Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:50 pm

JohnC wrote:
blueg33 wrote: I found a thred where John says this means the timer relay is FUBAR, is that the case?

Don`t go off to get a new timer relay until you have checked its operation. Put meter lead on Yellow wire (other lead to earth)..... with ign off... no voltage, switch on ign..... 12 v appears on yellow wire, switch off ign..... if 12 v stays on yellow lead for around 30 or so secs then goes off.... the relay is OK.


... ah didn't know about this one, so a nice little off-delay timer relay... umm could have other uses, JohnC is this built round a simple RC or similar that can be changed to get an extended delay of say a couple of minutes with some component changes?
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Postby jon_viola » Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:31 pm

If I remember rightly the fuel gauge worked fine then suddenly stopped working. JohnC very kindly looked at the "black box" and checked it's operation.

I think it then worked sporadically and I didn't get to the bottom of it before selling the car as I got side tracked...

I would suspect dry joints or cracked wiring due to the intermittent nature of the issue.

The timer relay is also used in BMW's of the period FYI.
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Postby JohnC » Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:48 pm

MFaulks wrote:,,,umm could have other uses, JohnC is this built round a simple RC or similar that can be changed to get an extended delay of say a couple of minutes with some component changes?

I really don`t know Martin, but I expect it is is an RC cct which can be modified. I have been trying to get hold of a faulty one for a long time to open it up to see if they could be repaired as I do think that this is possible, but no such luck yet..... so if anyone has a faulty one lying around gathering dust..... let me know. As these type of items are getting rarer and more costly, it would be good to have a fix for them for the benifite of club members. :wink:
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Postby JohnC » Sat Feb 16, 2013 10:53 pm

jon_viola wrote:I think it then worked sporadically and I didn't get to the bottom of it before selling the car as I got side tracked...

This is really strange.... there is no way it ever could have worked with the two white sensor wires in the wrong position. Nick has now repositioned them to the other end of the connector and it appears.... fingers crossed... that it is now working ...... most strange. :? :? :?
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