Rear Suspension Geo

D you think they will need welding in place? That's fine if you never change the ride height again, or do you mean just a tack weld to aid location?

Trevor.

You need to weld a new washer in place over the slotted arm and fixed washer .Depends how condfident you are a tack will hold but it'll just screw up the camber if it does fail ..ie the wheels won't fall off

Once set you forget unless you change wheel size which I doubt many would do ??

Think I must be thick. The only way the wheel is going to fall off is if you slot right through to the end of the arm, is that what is required? I was only thinking it would need "some" slotting rather than all the way hence my thought that it may not need welding. Are most people lowering their cars for looks or handling? I doubt the handling improves dramatically when lowerede especially on the road and I don't see many on the track.

Trevor.

[mettersl]

Alternatively you could make up a custom "washer" that bolts on and drill the wishbone to accept it. If you put more than one hole in the washer, you could have a choice of settings and if Lee drills the securing holes as part of the wishbone slotting you could imagine a camber adjusting kit- wishbones, washers and lock bolts. You'd only need small bolts as its there to act if friction tails, and the whole assembly only has "safe" failure modes. As lee says the worst that would happen is a loss of camber angles.
Clee- Inspired to do what David G never completed?

Lee

Think I must be thick. The only way the wheel is going to fall off is if you slot right through to the end of the arm, is that what is required? I was only thinking it would need "some" slotting rather than all the way hence my thought that it may not need welding. Are most people lowering their cars for looks or handling? I doubt the handling improves dramatically when lowerede especially on the road and I don't see many on the track.

Trevor.

You on the sherry already ? I said the wheel won't fall off ,as they could with the camber bolt , just feck up the camber if the weld fails .
You elongate the existing hole ,put a new thick washer/bolt assembly on ,set ,then weld in place .You might not get enough adjustment but you are going to get nearer to optimum .

Alternatively you could make up a custom "washer" that bolts on and drill the wishbone to accept it. If you put more than one hole in the washer, you could have a choice of settings and if Lee drills the securing holes as part of the wishbone slotting you could imagine a camber adjusting kit- wishbones, washers and lock bolts. You'd only need small bolts as its there to act if friction tails, and the whole assembly only has "safe" failure modes. As lee says the worst that would happen is a loss of camber angles.
Clee- Inspired to do what David G never completed?

Lee

Not enough meat to do that really .I'll do one and see what we can get .
Custom stuff already in hand for JIL but I doubt of any real use to the ' normal ' GTA owner We're modifying the subframe etc .Billet adjustable top arms will not be cheap .
Not allowed outside now as boys are bouncing off the walls and outlaws arrival imminent I might sneak out mind .......

[mettersl]

Sadly the only top wishbones I have are the ones on the car otherwise I'd be tempted to have a play (especially as Christmas has gone off plan with a combination of sick dog needing care, sons girlfriend not having the right paperwork to get into the UK and other son having broken his arm giving me a chance to sample the NHS on Christmas eve).
Before starting we really it need some calculations to find out how much movement is needed (or to do it and measure). I'm not sure if we are talking 0.1mm, 1mm or 10mm at present for the combination of drop amount, wheel width, offset and diameter.

Happy Christmas everyone!

Don't need calculations .I can just slot one to the max and see what we get on a std car at least .Top arm is a quick change anyway .

Lee,

As you suspected, I mis-read your post without my glasses

Trevor.

.
Well, here's F50, and I did the slot and reweld the washer mod as the photos show several years ago, you can also judge how far it had to move across to achieve OE geometry on 17" on the usual rubber with a 30mm reduced ride height. I would say that it was pretty much at the limit of what you can reasonably get out by that method. But it worked, has been on the road and not been a problem.








http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... php?t=4899

[mettersl]

That looks to be about 3mm? maybe a bit more,for the change in tyre size and drop. As you say on the limit without custom top arms.
That sounds like a pretty typical change in spec for s modified GTA and definitely counts out my ideas about bolted washers. I guess that makes a spare set of top arms a useful thing to have if you are changing geometry as it looks to be a once way change.
Will be good to have pictures of the JIL set up when it's done.
Cheers
Lee

Hummmm!
Many many cars have an elongated hole to adjust camber.
No fancy concentric bolts or washers, just good old fashioned 'grip' when tightened holds setting in place.

Elongate the suspension arm, set the camber, mark it up with painted marks and recheck a few weeks/ hundred miles later.

This carry on need only been done if the car is lower than factory otherwise shims are the only thing you need. Oh yeah, and someone that knows what they are doing re the alingment gauges!

Yep agree, however for the majority on here it's easier if it is set with a fixed location washer, so they can get back to setting if they ever need to strip for what ever reason and not need any of this below again once set

Oh yeah, and someone that knows what they are doing re the alingment gauges!

Calling Clee, have you got any spare shims? I have lost my spares, I need 2 for the RHS (looking at the subframe from the rear) just thinking of the northern meeting coming up!!

cheers

Will

Got a box full of various thickness .You'll need to take an assortment and let me have the rest back