Cutting out...

PG I dont think that will work. The 80 / 90 switch purely relates to engine bay air temperature. All the time my car had the wrong 110c switch controlling the fans, the water temperature was fine with about 1/3rd showing on the guage. Maybe 1/2 if stuck in traffic on a hot day. The high air temperature upset engine running but why is as yet unknown. This coolant temperature is primarily controlled by the front fans cooling the radiator. If you have a coolant ovrheat then I am sure someone with more knowledge will advise but I understand these engines get sludged up and then the guage will be high. Geoff

Where is the fan resistor located?

How about getting the bay up to normal temperature, then have at it with
hairdryer on anything suspect.If you get a cutout ,leave, then run again without using the dryer,if no cutout ,voila .

Fan resistor according to fault sheet ,behind the radio ,hasn't got a diagram ,mayby Stephens got the info

clee, That is a bit inspired! Maybe a hot air gun would do it. I have an adjustable one as I dont want to melt too many things though. Trouble is my A610 is now running perfectly and I am kinda scared to upset it when it is happy. Still when I get a moment!!!! Geoff

The story so far.

Still cutting out, after talking to people about it at Rockingham i tried lifting the cover over the ECU to cool it down a bit, no joy with that. Checked the wiring to the de-perk fan and the engine earths, they are fine and show nearly no resistance. I took it for a good spin in the hot weather yesterday and when i got on some country lanes with the engine up to temperature it progressively got worse. I listened carefully to see if any relays were clicking when it was doing it and couldn't hear anything, the fuel pump relay certainly wasn't making any noise.

Not sure if this is any help, but no lights come on when it cuts out. I would of thought if it was an ignition or ECU problem the ignition lights on the dash would come on? As if the ignition switch was being turned back a click and causing the engine to stop.

It still seems worse while going round a right hand bend, i intensionally went round a fast right hander to see if it happened and as soon as i turned in at speed the bloody thing just died and cruised round. I kept the throttle in the same place all the way round and as soon as i came out of the corner it came alive again! Never did it going the other way on the same bend!

Could it be the ignition barrel ?My old TVR once cut out at 60+ with a big bang due to a dogey unit.A mate of mine was always getting cut outs ,then realised that his extremly heavy keys,work/home/ garage were turning the ignition off

Possibly a daft idea, but if it's only doing it on right hand bends, do you think it might have anything to do with the fuel pick up in the tank! How much fuel have you had in the tank when it cuts out? Have you ever had the fuel filters replaced, just to rule them out?

Does it cut out when cold doing the same manoeuvre ? That would suggest fuelling

Only cuts outs when hot and does it mainly on the straights when i put it under load, but right handers seem to provoke it. There was well over half a tank when i tried it, so don't think its the fuel pick-up in the tank, but maybe filters?

If it was the ignition barrel, i would of thought the ignition lights would come on?

Might cost a few quid but it may be worth taking it to a rolling road. That way you'd be able to isolate whether it is a problem related to something moving under the G-force of accelerating/cornering or something that is entirely unrelated to the movement of the car. You'd also get a reading on the fuel mixture that might tell you if it was running too lean or rich. I have to say that it does sound like some sort of electrical thing though.

I had a 5GTT that kept cutting out and it bugged me for ages. Turned out to be the fuel pump relay ( I think you say that you've excluded that from your investigation but I'll bore you with the story anyhow!). The relay had gotten weak with age and when it got really hot - i.e. when I had the heaters on in the car, blowing hot air over it - it just pinged open. It would close shortly afterwards once the car had stopped and the thing had cooled down a bit then - off we'd go again. I had eliminated it a few times as the car did not cut out when I pulled the relay from it's socket - I assumed therefore that this relay couldn't be the cause. It was only when I left it off for about 30 seconds with the car running that it finally conked out.

Had a similar relay problem with the headlight relay on the GTA - it would click open and shut if I went over a bump - flashing the lights on and off, just because it wasn't strong enough to stay closed. Maybe the force of accelerating/cornering is doing this to one of your relays?

Good luck with your investigations. As Sherlock Holmes said - "Eliminate the obvious and what is left, no matter how improbable, must be the truth". My money is on the live feed to the ECU being wired through the screenwash low indicator (only joking but it would produce the symptoms you are seeing if the level was just right). Keep at it and follow a logical approach and you'll find your answer. At least you've got plenty of sympathisers to help you.

Ben....reference it cutting out when cornering.., I found that on my car, the fuel pump wiring was looped around the back edge of the wishbone. Check that this is not the case, as it was cutting into the wiring as the car rolled when going into a bend.

[Alpineandy]

Not on a GTA but a mate had a real search before he found the main power cable from the battery was shorting.

Good luck.

Presumably a major electrical short or open circuit like that would interrupt the stereo, lights etc as well as the engine management. Does the stereo crackle or go off or the lights dim when the engine cuts?

Worth seeing if the rev counter dies when he engine cuts round those RH bends... If it does then it is most prob ignition cutting out, if it doesnt then it will be fuel I reckon, and Davids suggestion sounds very plausible.