Renault 5 Turbo 2 - buying and owning - do's and don'ts

Hi all,

This is my first post on this forum so please be gentle. I have two Clio V6's......so looking to join the dark side......

So, now looking to buy a 5 Turbo, and would like advice from those who currently own or have owned these marvels in the past. I did meet up with a few of present and past owners art Prescott La Vie En Bleu on Sunday (27th).

Below are some of the questions I have at present:

1. What are the danger signs a novice can easily spot so that a potential “dog” can be avoided?

2. If one is to acquire a car that has been stored for long periods of time (e.g. 10 years), what are the likely re-commissioning costs involved, assuming that the car was put into storage in fully working order?

3. Are spares readily available?

4. How expensive are they (e.g. clutch, brake discs & pads, suspension, gearbox components, engine components etc)?

5. What are the weak points of these cars?

6. Is there a significant difference between the 8220 and 8221 models, and their relative desirability?

7. What are the likely annual costs for maintenance and servicing?

8. How much should I pay for a car that is a) in pristine condition, b) in okay condition but one that requires re-commissioning and c) restoration project?

Thank you

Dulan

[phildini]

I have owned many R5 Gordini and two T2's, they all rust the same way, find below my answers. This is my opinion from past experience

1. RUST!!!, SILLS, MOST IMPORTATNT THE EMPTY BOX CAVITY SECTION BETWEEN FRONT WHEEL ARCH AND FRONT FLOOR PANS. FRONT CROSS MEMBER AND CHASSIS LEGS, ESPECIALLY WHERE THE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR ATTACHES, ON T1 & T2 THEY ARE DIFFERENT FROM A STANDARD MK1 R5. INNER FRONT WINGS BOTH SIDES.BOTH "A" POST. AROUND FRONT WINDSCREEN. SOME EXTREME CASES REAR BOOT LID OPENING.

2. MOST PROBABLY THE FUEL PUMPS WILL BE KNACKERED, AND ALL HOSES WILL NEED REPLACING, ALSO THE K-JETRONIC MIGHT BE A LITTLE SEIZED IN PLACES. ANTIFREEZE WILL BE FULL OF SHITE TOO. MICE ETC..... COSTS, WELL IT WIILL DEPENDS,

3. ENGINE PARTS NOT A PROBLEM, GEARBOX BECOMING A PROBLEM, BODY PARTS ( ORIGINAL ) CAN BE A HEADACHE OR EXPENSIVE. CLUTCH COMPLETE VERY VERY EXPENSIVE. BRAKES ORIGINAL ARE SHITE SO YOU BETTER UPGRADE THEM. SUSPENSION UPGRADE REASONABLE.

4. AS ABOVE

5. BUILT BY 10 YEAR OLDS, SO CAN BE FRAGILE

6. 8220 and 8221 models, UNLESS YOU DRIVE THEM AROUND A TRACK, NO!! JUST DESIRABILITY. YOU KNOW THE GOOD OLD PUB TALK, MY CAR IS FASTER THAN YOURS ETC....

7. IF MECHANICALLY THE CAR IS 100% AND ALL IT NEEDS IS AN ANNUAL SERVICE CHEAP AS CHIPS, UNLESS YOU TAKE IT TO J.P. RALLYING...... THEN IT WILL BECOME AS EXPENSIVE TO RUN AS A FERRARI

8. I RECKON FOR A 8220 a) in pristine condition, UP TO £30K MAX b) in okay condition but one that requires re-commissioning UP TO £15K c) restoration project UP TO £10K,

OF COURSE SOME PEOPLE MAY DISAGREE WITH ME, AND I WANT TO STRESS THIS IS MY OPINION. ALSO ASK ANDY THE PAINTER HE LOVES THEM MAXI MAN WHAT DO YOU RECKON? ALSO CLEE CAN TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT ABOUT THE RUST ISSUES.

CHECK MY STORY BELOW......
http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... sc&start=0

Phildini, thanks for your response. Very useful.

As regards the following, is it purely due to JPR's high labour costs or is there another reason for high running costs?

"IF MECHANICALLY THE CAR IS 100% AND ALL IT NEEDS IS AN ANNUAL SERVICE CHEAP AS CHIPS, UNLESS YOU TAKE IT TO J.P. RALLYING...... THEN IT WILL BECOME AS EXPENSIVE TO RUN AS A FERRARI"

Would like to know who the reputed specialists are for:

1. Mechanical work and set up
2. Bodyhwork and painting

Thanks

Answers to your questions.....

1. Mechanical work and set up anyone but John Price!
2. Bodyhwork and painting Andy the painter

Rust

You've not seen rust till you've seen this .......



Nightmare of a project all round and only getting worse .For restoration find the least rotten one you can

[quote="clee"]Rust

You've not seen rust till you've seen this .......



Nightmare of a project all round and only getting worse .For restoration find the least rotten one you can [/quote

VERY VERY EXPENSIVE RUST!

Rust

You've not seen rust till you've seen this .......



Nightmare of a project all round and only getting worse .For restoration find the least rotten one you can

Never have I seen a shell so badly rusted

How do you fix something like that without having to re-shell it?

1. Yes, rust, and make sure the tube at the bottom of what was the original FWD engine location is intact; this tube designed to absorb some of the impact from a head on collision.
They do not have to be rusty though:


2. Mine had been standing around for a long time when I bought it and required lots of working cleaning up the fuel & injection system, the fuel pumps are inside the tank; the electrics & gauges will probably be not working and the clutch is a big job, they were £328+vat just for the plates back in 2004!



3. I've not really had a problem with parts, but the car has been SORN for a while mind; Meca Parts in France seem to have most items and I have found them both reasonably priced and quick to deliver.

http://www.mecaparts.com/

I think I might be doing business with GTO too for some upgraded parts

http://www.gtoracing.co.uk/index.php

4. See above

5. They don't really have a weak point, in my opinion.

6. No, IMO

7. Low, there is not much to go wrong & it's old & basic engineering so anyone competant will be able to look after it. Tyres if it's running Michelin TRX (metrics) will be expensive but you can fit aftermarket wheels and imperial tyres.

8. I'd agree with phildini but there are too few around to make accurate judgements about

I don't know if that helps but best of luck.

Thank you Simon. That was very helpful.