Slave Cylinder

Hi,

I am in the middle of replacing my slave cylinder on my 1990 GTA turbo to resolve a long running clutch issue when hot. I have replaced the fluid many times and still I lose pressure in the clutch when then engine gets really warm. The master seems fine.

I know that the preferred method is to remove the turbo along with its bracket to gain access to the slave but now I have stripped down all the heat shields I am wondering is it possible to remove just the turbo bracket without removing the turbo? I reckon that if I can remove the turbo bracket leaving the turbo in place ( it would be supported by the exhaust etc) I would have enough room to replace the slave? If so what bolts do I need to remove and are they accessible to free the bracket from the engine and the turbo from the bracket ?

I am sure if this was possible people would have used this method before am I am being optimistic!

As you can see I am reluctant to remove the whole turbo unless as a last resort ! ;0)

Thanks
Brad

yes you can. slacken the exhaust clamps unbolt the turbo mounting plate and it will lift up about two inches. its a renault workshop method not easy but i did replace mine this way.

Thanks Andy.

Can it be removed completely ( or right out of the way) by unbolting the turbo from the bracket? How many bolts hold the turbo onto the bracket?.

Also by doing it your way I assume that is both in and out exhaust clamps?

Thanks
Brad

slacken the clamps that are half way between the manifold and turbo on both sides, leave the turbo fixed to the plate and just remove the bolts that hold the plate to the engine. the turbo and plate will then lift up and you can just get under with a ring spanner and change the slave.

Thanks Andy I will give that a go.

Cheers
Brad

Andy I assume that the oil and water feeds can take the strain of the lift by a couple of inches?

Thanks
Brad

its a long time since i did mine this way and it has been fine but care dose need to be taken. it would be better to remove the whole turbo, clean and inspect every thing. lee has said that most of the water feed pipes clog up and new oil feed pipes are always a good thing on a 20 year old car. my 21 turbo went up in flames when an oil pipe fractured, it just depends on how far you want to go.

I give up
Do it the ' easy way ' and let me know how you get on

Right finally got the slave replaced. Took the turbo off in the end ( Thanks for all the advise Clee ) Turned out to be a pain in the end due to bleed screw shearing off, getting the oil/water feeds back on etc but at least I know all the issues if the turbo needs to come off again.

Now just need to put back on all the heat shields and get an MOT on her ready for the summer!

Thanks again to all those who advised etc

Cheers
Brad

Turned out to be a pain in the end due to bleed screw shearing off

I assume this is referring to the slave bleed screw which dangles at the bottom near the bell housing ?

Yes thats the one. I had corroded into teh thread even though it had been undone last year? Had to have it drilled out and then new screw thread tapped in with a larger bleed screw :0(

Only asked as I need to bleed my slave (along with the brakes) sometime soon. Have already doused it with Plusgas, hoping that this helps the situation.

Car passed its MOT the other day but the clutch is still messing around. Biting point is near the floor still sometimes

So I assume I will need to replace the clutch master cylinder now as this is the fault. No fluid loss still but I have read that the master cylinder has a 1 way value that pushes fluid back into the resivior?

How easy is it to change the cylinder , I assume it is done by jacking the car up and removing from underneath and any guides or tips would be helpful?

Also I assume new master cylinders can only be sourced from Simon Autos?

Thanks
Brad

Also just got a quote for a master cylinder from Simon Autos. 210 euros! Does that seem expensive?

Thanks
Brad