Sell "Christine" and buy an M3? I'm just so disap

Southern prices again and a total waste of hard earned if you bolt it to a PRV ...In any state of tune

I'll be interested to know why? A 6 speed sequential box is good enough for a cup spider?
Comments please?

Ps who mentioned PRV?

And what happens when it goes pop ? You can get just as good usable ratios by mixing and matching .

[stephendell]

And what happens when it goes pop ?

If it's a sadev you cry and / or open your wallet

And what happens when it goes pop ?

If it's a sadev you cry and / or open your wallet

The whole point off purpose built is that its better stronger and more reliable thank standard thats why it wont got pop unlike second hand mix and match tell me what gears can you mix and match gears from 1st to 3rd any way? Not unless there are van gears available 1st to 3rd are all the same so what is there to mix and match?

If it goes pop? Ill have to do the same as you if one of your custom engines goes pop open it up and open my wallet and say help thy self and in the meanwhile put a standard box in lol with mixte and matched gears lol

Southern prices again and a total waste of hard earned if you bolt it to a PRV ...In any state of tune

I'll be interested to know why? A 6 speed sequential box is good enough for a cup spider?
Comments please?

the box in a cup spider is the first sequential fitted to a renault sport race car its a modded JC casing same as in a road spider of clio or megane , this was in development after the spider ws released for racing as all spider cups left the factorywith H pattern boxes and for season were upgraded to sequential.

PLUS..... WHY are you spending 7K on a gearbox when you could fix up your other car thats rotting in deboys garage

the whole point of purpose built is that its better stronger and more reliable thank standard

Has anyone here had a gearbox failure?

Save your money.

the whole point of purpose built is that its better stronger and more reliable thank standard

Has anyone here had a gearbox failure?

Save your money.

AND CONTINUE THE PROJECT CAR THATS DETERIORATING IN DELBOYS GARAGE

The only issues I've had are with the 1st/2nd syncro but a quick rebuild sorted that .We have stronger parts going in with the LSD but still std items .
Gears need a 50t press to fit so Martin is sorting that out with GTO this week I hope .
1st gear will be pretty much useless apart from the start and we will be having to use 5th so that may well be fragile but ......It won't cost anywhere near £7k and if it goes wrong then can be fixed DIY using ' normal ' parts .
Allegedly the std box is good for double the power input and seems to handle the v8 torques in kitcars .....so with uprated bits should have no major failings .


PS ...If you are having a £7k box then you won't be needing the 25 diff will you ? I'll drop Lee another line

The only issues I've had are with the 1st/2nd syncro but a quick rebuild sorted that .We have stronger parts going in with the LSD but still std items .
Gears need a 50t press to fit so Martin is sorting that out with GTO this week I hope .
1st gear will be pretty much useless apart from the start and we will be having to use 5th so that may well be fragile but ......It won't cost anywhere near £7k and if it goes wrong then can be fixed DIY using ' normal ' parts .
Allegedly the std box is good for double the power input and seems to handle the v8 torques in kitcars .....so with uprated bits should have no major failings .


PS ...If you are having a £7k box then you won't be needing the 25 diff will you ? I'll drop Lee another line

Hands off Clee how do you know what I'll be requiring Any way wahy wouyld you be needing a smaller diff with all that power you'll be making it'll make the car slower as you'll be changing an H box lever whenyou could still be accelerating in a taller gear, shurely power corrupts absolutley and you'd probably just spin the wheels and not move anywhere

Allegedly the box is good for twice the power on a kit car ....which probably weighs less than a GTA? and is driven with some mechanical sympathy not ragged from what I have heard? No 6000 rpm starts off the line ; hence do the job as best you can and not have to take the box out everytime you drop it off the line especially if your going for 400 plus Gee Gees any way if thats the power would you not expect the torque to be a lot higher in a turbo lump I think you'll find it'll be the torque that'll spit the shafts and cogs out in little pieces.

I dont think you'll find the kit car boys are running standard boxes and those that are use them with some care and not balls out. I dont know this for sure just what I have heard TBH

Clee have you had a one piece input shaft made or just bolstered a new coupling?

So come on then spill the beans what different first 3 gears are available to mix and match?

si21

the whole point of purpose built is that its better stronger and more reliable thank standard

Has anyone here had a gearbox failure?

No because sadly knowone has made enough power yet from this fraternity I am sure it will be on the cards and I dont plan on being far off eventually so why build weakness in ?

si21 to win the race first you have to cross the line

For 7k I'd expect that to be part of the package so you won't need an old diff in it innit ?
Shafts are sorted ...Input shaft sorted ...I'lm taking ref from Simonsays on this one .If you want to know then send it up to Derbyshire

I don't need the final drive ,Will does for his hillclimber .

the whole point of purpose built is that its better stronger and more reliable thank standard

Has anyone here had a gearbox failure?

Save your money.

AND CONTINUE THE PROJECT CAR THATS DETERIORATING IN DELBOYS GARAGE

If it goes pop? Ill have to do the same as you if one of your custom engines goes pop open it up and open my wallet and say help thy self and in the meanwhile put a standard box in lol with mixte and matched gears lol

Si suggest you go back to the books / manuals and read... on the OE shafts 1st and 2nd are committed because the driver gears are cut on the main shaft. There are options on 3rd, 4th and 5th. You just need to know where to look. But that is irrelevant if you don't match it to your torque curve, engine rpm drop, road speed etc...

Having more gears doesn't give you more power, just allows you to run an engine with a narrower power band, and hence not drop out of the power band on gear change. Changes are a necessary evil, not a desirable if can be avoided... think about it...

Cheers Martin

TBH Martin I dont really know any thing much about gear boxes so I was really looking for a bit of informative info which you have now very kindly given me, I am not very good at reading and digesting info part patience and part lazyness ...a combination of the both not good really all though I'll always blame that on time

I have never really needed to, or had to look into gear boxes before, the only problems ever experiencesd previous to "Christine" was my 21t box which snicked into 2nd and popped out of 5th I had a spare box which remains in place to this day

After thinking about your advice I decided that lowering the gearing to match the power band of the engine and gearing more for the max speed required to optimise acceleration in that gear appealed to me. Especially as when I do the engine I want to do it once properly and not several times; of course I realise there is no guarentee of that. The engine will not be very powerful until it comes to the last stage ....The super charger...so the idea being if possible is to build and put together a modified engine that is suitable for super charging. even if this is slightly detrimental to power when used in a normally aspirated format. As long as I end up with an engin that gives me better performance than a standard odd fire engine. I am more than willing to accept advice on the type of cams to be used on the 3 litre even fire injected lump. The idea being that limited mods are made, mostly being bolt on minor head mods plus a set of cams an ECU and finally when funds allow the super charger. I have always loved a torquey engine rather than a peaky one so much more forgiving to drive, if I went for a torquey cam and allowed the super charger to help breathing at the top end ....would this work Martin I want an engine that pulls well throughout the range and the power to be on tap instantly with smooth delivery....LOL dont we all

Another admission .....I was never ever going to spend another 7 grand on a car thats worth half that TBH. a) I am not stupid and B) I dont have 7 grand to spend on a gear box I just wanted to liven the boards up a bit and poke the stike in the hive and see what info came out TBH I just wanted to make for an interesting chat about boxes

I will now be looking at choosing the right gearing for 4th and 5th to go with a 25 diff, hopefully it should all work quite well as the 25T is already driven by a PRV and I think will suit the atmo. I will of course be taking advice from someone who builds their own boxes and fully preps their own race car/s.

So yes Clee I will definately be requiring that 25T diff

One more question .......I have found that I have recently been holding on to 2nd and 3rd rather than changing gear before a corner when sprinting, I have crossed my fingers and held on to 6500 what safe rev limit for an old standard even fire lump would you recommend, is 6500 too much, I didnt appaear to hhave any valve bounce ....whats a standard crank good for reliably

look froward to hearing back from you.

Cheers Si

Don't tell him Pike !!

diff smifff ....what flavour 25 did it come out of ?