A610 cuttin out

How do I set the ecu to have a circulation of cold air as I tried it led flat on the seat and it still cut out and would not start for nearly two hours

That doesn't sound like the injector driver then....

[mettersl]

I don't understand this injector driver overheating thing, doesn't that mean too much current, which would mean low impedance injectors?
Anyone know what the impedance should be? John C what do you think?

Lee

According to MF, the on-board driver is identical to the GTA's. The injectors are of course different - no detail there.

I had a lot of time to experiment with the behaviour of my Venturi. It only ever cut out under load - often when trying to overtake, which is a hair-raising experience I can tell you!!!

The key behaviour is this.

It would cut out and if you waited long enough, it'd cut back in again (7 seconds or so). if you then tried booting it again, it'd cut out within a couple of seconds. If you drove gently, it'd be fine.

If however, you cycled the ignition after it cut out, it'd wake up immediately but cut out again a lot quicker.

NB it'd often cut out just as the boost came in - this makes sense because the injector duty will increase with MAP.

This behaviour is absolutely consistent with a device with a thermal cut-out.

Let's say it cuts out at 90 degrees, and re-sets ar 80 degrees. After cutting out, you have to wait for it to cool by 10 degrees at which point you then have that 10 degree "headroom" back again.

If however you cycle the power when it's only at 88 degrees, it'll wake back up but you only then have a 2 degree "headroom" before cutting out again.

On my 610, I took the ECU off the bulkhead and laid it down flat between the seats - it never cut out like that for me, although Rob has said it has for him. I believe Steve knows of someone who has added heatsinks and fans to his ECU and this has worked.

I would certainly recomment turning the ECU over so the base points forward, maybe add some cheap heatsinks to the surface of the box and add an air-gap between the ECU box and the wall.

NB this has nothng to do with most "cutting out" issues experienced by 610 owners and is specific to the symptoms detailed above.

I've had all Rob's injectors cleaned and balanced .One was way out of whack .Will see if it helps .

I don't understand this injector driver overheating thing, doesn't that mean too much current, which would mean low impedance injectors?
Anyone know what the impedance should be? John C what do you think?

Lee

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