Gearbox oil change

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Gearbox oil change

Postby pgoldsmith » Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:48 am

Anyone got some useful tips on replacing the gearbox oil on GTAs.
I've located the 'fill' and 'drain' points (both square sockets :!: ), but as I'm working on the floor of my garage, I'm going to have to jack the car up slightly to gain access.
This, I guess, will affect the level of gearbox and I run the risk of putting alittle too much or too little oil back in the box.

Also, why is it that GTAs require gearbox oil replacement every 12,000 miles when other cars I've owned dont require any change at all ?
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Postby JohnC » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:32 pm

Paul, What I would do, (which is what I did last time) jack up the Alp so as you can get a good purchase to crack the plugs, as they can be tight, then place the car on 4 x 2" block of wood, that will give you enough room to get to the plugs to undo them as they will now be loose. Drain away ( I always leave oil draining overnight (engine included). Refit the drain plug, tighten as best as possible to stop leakage.
Below is a pic of a piece of 10mm soft copper pipe (central heating oil type) which I bent with an external pipe spring to suite, attach a funnel of sorts, place a piece of white paper on the cross member below the fill hole so as you can see when the first drop of oil drips when the level is correct, Fill, when filled, remove pipe, finger tight bung, rejack car up to tighten both plugs. Job done :wink:
A syringe can be used but I prefer to use the pipe method as the oil goes in slowly and does not create air bubbles which can give you a false full level, as when bubbles burst, the level might drop.....but, of course, it is marginal, but I prefer it that way. :wink:

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Postby simontaylor » Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:49 pm

My experience is that I got exacly 3 litres back into it, or what ever the manual spec is.
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Postby clee » Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:18 pm

Make sure you can get the fill plug out first before draining the box .......
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Postby simontaylor » Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:46 pm

Also.... then you can poke in your pinky finger and see how low the level is to start with. :D
Dont go too far in ....... or else your finger could get stuck :(
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Postby pgoldsmith » Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:33 pm

Thanks for the advice, and thanks John for the photo - I did a search after the post :roll: and found some useful tips, including your inprovised pipe and funnel technique :D

I think using some 6mm clear hose in place of the pipe may be OK - be easier to feed down between the bits and pieces.

Does anyone know why it needs frequent oil changes , something to do with high temperature perhaps ??
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Postby Jon K » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:01 pm

If it is any help I have always use an oil syringe to get the oil into gearboxes.

Something like this http://bit.ly/l6O6vz
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Postby BIG_MVS » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:10 pm

clee wrote:Make sure you can get the fill plug out first before draining the box .......


They sounds like words of experience :lol: :lol:
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Postby pgoldsmith » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:35 pm

Indeed, that had crossed my mind.
I'll have a go at shifting the filler plug before draining.
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Postby JohnC » Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:07 pm

To crack the filler plug, you will have to jack the car up as high as possible and it may be necessary to get a breaker bar on it, but you will need the height to get the leverage. Both plugs have tapered threads, and as I said before, they can be tight, but they will unscrew with a good pull on a long bar. Make sure the square socket you use is a good fit, the last thing you want is to round it off. :wink:
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Gearbox Oil Change

Postby Murray Shaw » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:14 am

Hi some questions. What type of Transaxel oil is in it? and what are you going to use? and also how is the syncro on second gear?

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Postby pgoldsmith » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:20 pm

TMX80 (I think) is in it at the moment.

Being told a GL5 equivalent - TW75/80 should be ok.

My 2nd synch is fine thank you :D
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Postby phildini » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:15 pm

I tend to use the item below, very easy and NO MESS

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... uction-gun
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Postby si21 » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:41 pm

simontaylor wrote:My experience is that I got exacly 3 litres back into it, or what ever the manual spec is.


He right you know :wink:

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Postby si21 » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:49 pm

si21 wrote:
simontaylor wrote:My experience is that I got exacly 3 litres back into it, or what ever the manual spec is.


He right you know :wink:

Just one thought to pass on I beleiev the oil spec for the Turbo to the Atmo is different, I am guessing thicker for the Turbo as the whole assembley runs a lot hotter. I currently have the grade used in the Turbo and I am having trouble with gear changes mainly from 1st to 2nd and I am wondering if a thinner good qulaity oil would help me overcome this problem. Any thoughts experience on this one? Anyone?

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