Bleed Valve

Just ordered a Bleed Valve from Demon Tweeks.
I know how how and where to fit it, just wondering if anyone has fitted one before, and how to set it up, and adjust it so to speak.


Dont really want to blow my engine up

You guys were too late.. BANG!!!!!!

Fit the bleed valve on the pipe that goes from the inlet manifold to the turbo actuator. Even the slightest turn on the bleed valve will increase boost, even an eighth of a turn. The factory boost cut out is 14psi, so if you spike or try and run above this, the ECU will cut all fuel and ignition until boost is reduced. This will be quite a fierce cut out, but doesnt cause any damage. I would always reccomend getting your car rolling roaded before doing any mods, just to make sure the car is running how it should be from the factory. These are in some cases 16 year old cars, and simple components may not be up to the spec they should.

Thanks, I've fitted it ok, just needs setting up.

The first time I left it quite open, it seemed ok, but then I got a massive cut out and jolt, but then we off again.

I guess I need to open it a bit more.

Are K & N airfilters all there cracked up to be ??? I just want a replacement element as I already have a S/S Exhaust.

You cant open it any more! Whats happening is its boost spiking to say..16psi..which activates the cut out and then dropping to about 13psi which then makes it go as normal. You need the FCD chip, which modifies the boost limit and curve. The K&N elements are good, more likely to get clogged than the Pipercross versions which are foam cell. Check my site, all the info is logged there.

Thanks, I've got another question for you, its under the "Fuel Sender + Speedo" thread.

Maybe we need an "ASK DAVE" thread, as I post a lot of questions and you seem to answer most of them

I think it would make it a lot easier, rather than people having to trawl through all the threads.

I suppose its upto you and the Administrator though.

Me again mythering.

You said above quote "These are in some cases 16 year old cars, and simple components may not be up to the spec they should."

Which components do you mean ???? Can you draw up a list please.

Thanks

Ive found on the GTA turbos, the best thing to do before tuning is try and check and replace most of the old sensors, but also the wiring. You really need a diagagnostic computer to check this but most garages have a handhelp unit with a renault pod. I had a GTA turbo with a low coolant temp sensor reading, about 42 degrees even when hot. When this cocks up is basically overfuels the engine causing a lack of power. I changed the sensor, same problem... I cut out the what I then thought dodgy connector and soldered directly and still the same problem. I ran a new bit of loom directly from the sensor to the wiring at the ecu plug (I did try a different ecu aswell)..same problem! There was actually a fracture, or resistance in the plug socket to the ecu, I had to wire direct to the receptical in the main plug! Other sensors air the air inlet on the throttle body, the map sensor on the right hand side of the engine bay. Also clean out the map sensor pipe of all oil and dirt, this can affect the performance quite considerably if theres crap in there. Check that the map pipe also has the original Renault restrictor in there. Its a plastic joiner that links the two pipes together, but its downsized in side (it actually has a number written on it showing what bore it is) Also make sure your map pipe is the correct bore. Get the throttle switch checked, it has an idle,mid and high state. It should click the moment you touch the throttle and click again at about 70% throttle. There are two standard microswitches in there, they can fail. Run a new earth wire from the battery to the engine bay. I monitored 4 ohms resistance difference on a GTA from battery earth to rear earth once! Try and renew all vacuum hosing if possible, to prevent any leaks.