This'll scare the neighbours ....

Ahh ,but ,see ,now then ...It worked OK when I had 5mm pre load on the master clutch ..but it did slip .The new setup is within 3 mm of the std Turbo setup .
It does work but needs just a tad more movement and that could not be calculated ,only way to know some things is to give them a go .
Anyway saying I would have issues is not really much help now is it ya big bullocks !! .I knew I would have issues as I'm doing it all from scratch and need R&D .
A solution would have been more welcome
It's all new territory and I'll get it sorted but won't be letting on how and how much

I'm feeling a tad sensitive tonight but will endeavor to persevere

Sensitive???? Best time for a bun fight ya bollax!

3mm?????!!!!!!! Thats like loads. Do you not want the same actuation with lots more pressure?

Thats simple! LOL

Are you going to bark all night little doggy or are you going to bite ?
C'mon then ! help a poor thick Englishman out then .Will I find the answer at the end of the rainbow ?

Its all about the depth of the Englishmans wallet!!!!!

You want a clutch with lots more pressure and within the same depth/flywheel/clutch fork spec as per original!

See! Simple really!

Oh sorry! WOOOOOF WOOOOOF!

Send 'er over to Belfast for the rainbow answer!

As I thought ....I'll just have to work it out myself
Ahh well ,no change there then .

Why not just get your slave cylinder stainless sleeved, losing approx 2mm in the bore will most likely get you the extra travel you need.

Is the clutch and pressure plate kit you are using made to be on a flat flywheel, or one like a Renault usually has with about a 1mm higher section where the clutch plate rubs?

Did you get your clutch tested by a clutch specialist on a press to see what the clamp pressure was, and also how much movement at the throw-out bearing is necessary to release the clutch?

A std road car clutch may require 15mm of movement, whereas my AP Racing 184mm aluminium clutch on my race BMW with 3200Lbs of clamp requires only 4.5mm at the diaphragm to release.

Unfortunately for me this also means the thrust bearing part of the crank takes a massive load and so can chew up the crank in this area.

Not a lot of help, just a couple of ideas.

Thanks Alan .It is running on a flat flywheel .
The clutch is a AP Racing setup from these guys http://www.techcraft.co.uk/
I went down to see them with a lot of bits and we went through the possibles and this one is more than up to the job but it was more a case of I can make this fit and see how we go
The overall heights and movement etc were close to the GTA after we had removed the plate that was over the fingers and then modified the bearing carrier .
I think I just need a few mil to get it to work well so will try and space the slave off first and see how much we are talking .Then look at getting the actuation sorted long term .
The whole lot will be out again soon anyway for mods to the box/drive shafts and running gear so if I get some idea of what it needs then work on a better solution .
I just need at this stage to get a more drivable car so we can map it to it's full potential .
Getting to grips with the UN1 now due to a slightly annoying inherited feck-up on another car
What's wrong with this picture

Is the picture over exposed?

[stephendell]

Mr Gamblen should know, he had the same problem.

just turn it upside down, and put it back in and all will be fine ... well kinda

you said "what's wrong with the picture..... not "what's wrong with the item in the picture"...... depends on how many reves ears you want in the GTA...... 5 or 1

Back to JIL's woes ...

Have spaced the slave 5.50 mil ,will have to see ....

Also Turbo work ....Open up the hole in the turbine housing from 20 to 26 diameter ( 70% more area ) and work the area around the penny in the wastegate housing to try and get more flow .Again suck it and see ,well blow it and see really .

70% extra sounds pretty usefull !