Radiator

Paul, I'm with Cleeeeee on this one.

Over ride switch is masking a problem.

Standard fan, radiator and switching set up is more than enough with a car in standard guise or even slightly modded.

I have 2 years competing in GTA's at Hillclimbs, Sprints and Track days with the standard set up in good working condition with Zero problems.

1. Most important because of the radiator design, is to make sure none of the magic red water/ silt has built up in the lower parts of the radiator side panels, lowering the cooling capacity. Have the radiator stripped to inspect, prob best to recore at this stage.

2. Check all earthing points on the car.

3. Ensure fan is the correct type and is working smoothly and quietly.

4. The fan/bumper cowling must be fitted. (more important than you think)

5. Test and inspect all wiring.

6. Fit a new fan switch, not expensive.

7. Ensure the correct GTA/Renault/Alpine only thermostat is fitted (very important)

8. When bleeding check that the radiator bleed tube is not full of the crud from our lovely red water.

9. Ensure head gaskets are not on there way out and causing higher that normal temps in the engine as this is where the temp is read from and not the radiator.

Do all this and your water system will be fine is standard condition, miss any bits out and............. well thats up to you.

No charge for my info.

G

Another interesting point I note is, after you turn the engine off and then turn the ignition key to 2nd position (i.e. the position before you crank then engine), then the temp gauge reads a lower reading than before!

Wouldnt worry about that...these gauges do not work on the voltmeter principle, they work on a sort of bimetalic strip, being bimetalic they are operated by heat and will cool very quickly when current is removed, therefore when you switch on again they are cooler and will read lower, if you leave them on for a fairly long time they will creep up again, but very slowly

I found the same thing on one of those every times I drove it, it overheated occasions, the afterarket gauge read 10 degree lower than if the engine was started. I did this straight after turning the engine off to help cool it all down as quickly as possible. I put it down to a voltage drop without the engine driving the alternator. The wires to the temp gauge are very long as compared to a front engined car, essentially distances to the power source is much greater.


Si21

I agree with everything Richard says ......except, I fitted the extra switch which brings on both the rad fan and engine compartment fan (Atmo) mainly because at the time I was touring with a caravan and it gave me the ability to bring on the fans before accending mountain passes etc, however now that it is fitted I look upon it as a "get you home" facility should the rad switch, or its connections fail.
The only other thing I would highly recommend would be to use Renaults type D coolant. I was extreemly surprised but pleased that when I drained the type D coolant from my Alp after around 14 years of it being in, it had so little discolouring to it and it still retained its yellow/green colour, no rust colour at all, and I started the drain from the bleed tube on the rad into a bowl as I was expecting it to stain the driveway, further more, the drain tube flowed immediatly with no blockage, and when I took the rad out to flush expecting gunge, there was none. I know its expensive, around £33 for the required 15 litres, but I would use nothing else from that experience.

With regard to these temperatures after you switching off the engine.... I found this out back in the early 60`s on my Herald Coupe. I fitted a capillary type temp gauge (all the rage in those days) and was surprised that after switching off the engine, the temperature would rise which was due to the hot water in the engine stopping circulating and the heat would rise to the top where the capillary bulb was just above the thermostat. This type of gauge has no electrical parts, so it accurately reads the temp full time, this of course is one of the reasons why some engines, mainly carb ones, do not like hot starts.

My car is the same as above. It sits at 90 all the time. And only when stuck in traffic will it just creep over 90. Say about 95c, at which point the fan cuts in.

RE the pic above. That oil pressure looks really low !. Mine sits on "4" at idle at full running temp.

With regard to these temperatures after you switching off the engine.... I found this out back in the early 60`s on my Herald Coupe. I fitted a capillary type temp gauge (all the rage in those days) and was surprised that after switching off the engine, the temperature would rise which was due to the hot water in the engine stopping circulating and the heat would rise to the top where the capillary bulb was just above the thermostat. This type of gauge has no electrical parts, so it accurately reads the temp full time, this of course is one of the reasons why some engines, mainly carb ones, do not like hot starts.

Heat soak.... fit an electric pump with time delay run-on after ignition off, job done, problem removed, head gaskets happy, time for new (GTA terms) technology...

RE the pic above. That oil pressure looks really low !. Mine sits on "4" at idle at full running temp.

From the manual the min. oil pressure at 80`C for an idle speed of 900 rpm (a bit higher than normal idle) is 2,2 bar, and at 4000 rpm is 4.4 bar, so in my opinion Paul`s oil pressure looks OK

RE the pic above. That oil pressure looks really low !. Mine sits on "4" at idle at full running temp.

From the manual the min. oil pressure at 80`C for an idle speed of 900 rpm (a bit higher than normal idle) is 2,2 bar, and at 4000 rpm is 4.4 bar, so in my opinion Paul`s oil pressure looks OK

Sorry John, but we are the agreeing twins!!

4 bar at idle is very high if the guage is correct.

Paul, only way to check your oil pressure is not too high is to hook up a calibrated guage. Too high = no good!

From the manual the min. oil pressure at 80`C for an idle speed of 900 rpm (a bit higher than normal idle) is 2,2 bar, and at 4000 rpm is 4.4 bar, so in my opinion Paul`s oil pressure looks OK

Sorry.....it might be construded that I am misleading some of you...the above comment was directed to Paul T.....and the final comment was refering to Paul G`s indicated oil pressure at idle.......too many Pauls....or a senior moment on my part

Oh dear......Richard and I are agreeing again!!!

.... the gauge doesn't read bar .... 0-3-6 or 0-4-8 on some dials and that ain't bar dudes .
It's like ,yeh man ! my amp goes up to 11

Thanks for all the replies.
I've not been able to get on the Forum for several days - due to a some glitch somewhere I guess

The Rad is relatively new (4 years old) and I had the system well and truly flushed before it was fitted.
I never meant that by fitting a switch I could overlook or forget about an overheating problem. It's just that I think these cars get too hot at times and it was more of a reassurance than anything else.

That said, I was surprised how hot it got the other day (approaching the 120 mark) It did cool down but I dont like it so close to the red !

Probably will fit a new temperature switch, just to be on the safe side.

Rgds
Paul

PS: JohnC , didnt think you need to use a relay with an override switch, as your not taking high amps into the cabin area. Different if it was the engine fan switches, as they are high 10 amps or more.

RE the pic above. That oil pressure looks really low !. Mine sits on "4" at idle at full running temp.

From the manual the min. oil pressure at 80`C for an idle speed of 900 rpm (a bit higher than normal idle) is 2,2 bar, and at 4000 rpm is 4.4 bar, so in my opinion Paul`s oil pressure looks OK

My gauge goes 0 - 3 - 6
It sits on 3 at idle, and just touches 6 at anything over 2500rpm.

Im running the large 24v PRV oil filter, and Shell Helix Ultra 15w/50.

I have a diag of how I manually switch my fan on using one of the redundant switches on the dash, and a relay, if you want to go ahead with the mod, I`ll copy it to you if you wish

PS: JohnC , didnt think you need to use a relay with an override switch, as your not taking high amps into the cabin area. Different if it was the engine fan switches, as they are high 10 amps or more.

Hi Paul, the reason I use a relay (two in fact as I bring on both rad & engine bay fans from the one switch) is that, you will see from my original quote that I use one of the redundant dash switches (second from the left, LHS) which is not designed to carry reasonably high currents, they are only what I call signal switches , which are designed only to carry small currents for things like relays etc.

John

Paul Taylor wrote:

RE the pic above. That oil pressure looks really low !. Mine sits on "4" at idle at full running temp.

Paul Taylor wrote:

It sits on 3 at idle, and just touches 6 at anything over 2500rpm

.....your confusing me Paul.....not that difficult these days though ....even so, once again I have to agree with Richard, it looks too high to me, however my feeling is that the gauge is reading incorrectly...and a check with a known correct gauge is required

Sorry Jon !

I just knew mine sat halfway at idle, i did not realise there were different Pressure Guages on the cars, hence i said 4 like the one in the pic.

When i checked my car i actually have a 0 - 3 - 6 gauge. Allthough like Clee says, its just a Guess-o-meter. Much like the boost gauge !.

When i checked my car i actually have a 0 - 3 - 6 gauge. Allthough like Clee says, its just a Guess-o-meter. Much like the boost gauge !.

Unfortunately I have to disagree with Lee.... Sorry Lee.... but in my opinion the numbers on the gauge do refer to bar.....most Alps I would conclude running at normal 3 to 4k rpm will have the gauge needle around mid range, which is 4 bar on the gauge, and this coincides with the spec in the manual..... I cant see it being anything but bar, if it was a Guess-o-meter (I like that ) it would not have any numbers just a red band at the low end....similar to the oil level gauge