Clutch probem as well :0(

[stephendell]

Yes they completely re-routed the pipework on the later moels.

Mine is a 1990 on a 'G' does this mean that mine is a later model with a re-routed pipes? It is on a 501 chassis no? Was it the 502's that had the modified pipe work?

Clee - removing the turbo - worries the hell out of me that! Will be trying to avoid that at all costs!

Cheers
Brad

[pgoldsmith]

Hi Brad,
Just sent you the Tech Note.

It affects chassis numbers 42181 and below for D501 vehicles; doesnt mention D502 which I guess is the non UK or Cat version GTA.

Paul

Could you post it on the boards Paul please ??

just checked mine and it is above that (42181) so I must have the re-routed pipes?

[pgoldsmith]

I'll try, I presume I need to lodge it with Photobucket or similar and then point towards it from here, yes ?

yes

[pgoldsmith]

[/img]



What a ball aching task this is to insert photos.
Who thought this up, the French ?

Important.The cause of this incident may be that the boost pressure is set to high ....

[pgoldsmith]

Stephen,
Is there any issues (copyright for instance) with putting copies of the Technical Notes on the website ?

Thanks Paul

looks like in the tech notes they are suggesting that it is all done in 4 hourw without removing the turbo? So looks like just lagging it should be possible with removing the stainless heat shild etc around the turbo and the cooling scoop below? I wonder also if my cooling scoop has got anything in it that could be stopping airflow to the box

Cheers
Brad

The cooling scoop gets air to the clutch .It's on the bottom of the bellhousing so you wont need to remove it to wrap the cylinder .It really helps according to people I've spoken to that have it .Not got one on mine so I'm on the lookout for one .
There is a heat shield beneath the turbo mounting plate that need to come off .That'll be the bigger .Two bolts hold it through the mounting plate and there are another two retaining nuts that attach it to the bellhousing .

If there was crap fluid in the clutch system then there was prob water in it too.

Water causes rust in the bore of the cylinder, the seal then does not make a good seal and you lose pedal pressure.

Take the turbo off, rebuild the cylinder, fit whatever lagging you like and rebuild.

Also the front master cylinder is very problematic, fit a new one.

Your clutch should then feel smooth and light.

Thanks Paul

looks like in the tech notes they are suggesting that it is all done in 4 hourw without removing the turbo? So looks like just lagging it should be possible with removing the stainless heat shild etc around the turbo and the cooling scoop below? I wonder also if my cooling scoop has got anything in it that could be stopping airflow to the box

Cheers
Brad

Of course that 4 hrs was before all of the bolts were subjected to twenty years of salt and heat cycling, so that a third of them snap off. Allow all day and a have a supply of new stainless bolts and antisieze.

Only seems to be bad when sits after a hard run so think that lagging the pipes/slave will cure it for now. Clutch is fine rest of time with no grinding, even when selecting reverse.

Alan- Yeh I know what you mean. Any work I have done on the car I have usually ended up replacing the bolts with stainless etc and my car has never been out in the salt and rarely sees rain!

Cheers
Brad