Radio Cassette Problems

Can anyone help out, having a little issue with the radio cassette unit, firstly front drivers speaker appears constantly alive does anyone know the wiring colours for the speakers, 1988 Turbo, looking in found that the front drivers side is white/ red for + and white for - when it gets to the plug before unit it changes to purple/ red + and purple for -

Ohhh and if someone has the 7 pin plug for the unit it would also make life a little simpler as only got the 3 pin plug

This is for the 1990 Model Year, but I suspect it is the same as yours, I have marked the colour codes for the speakers.
Hope this is what you want

Thanks for the info john, both got a little something in common as my GTA originated in Jersey "J648" before being sent to the UK in 1992.

Will have a look and connect it and see,

Thanks for the info john, both got a little something in common as my GTA originated in Jersey "J648" before being sent to the UK in 1992.

Was it the Maroon one, or some form of metalic red?

It was a red one

Ohhh and if someone has the 7 pin plug for the unit it would also make life a little simpler as only got the 3 pin plug

Martin, can you expand on that .......what 7 pin plug ,..... and what 3 pin plug is the one you have ....and what do they both do

John

Hi John
Yes the plugs are the two plugs that fit onto the main unit, at the moment have used standard crimp on lugs which do the job fine but thought if anyone had one then I would fit.

The radio cassette is all up and working now, the constant feed onto the drivers door speakers was down to the output channel within the unit as reconnected rear speakers to front connections and all okay left the faulty channel disconnected, radio found that the continuity was no good on the aerial cable remade, reconnected all good.

Slight difference found on my unit as on the three pin connector you need a feed in on both pins 1 & 2, if only pin 1 used nothing outputs to the speakers,

Now onto next task water temp gauge works okay untill you fire up engine then goes straight to cold, would my thoughts be correct in thinking this is a earth problem ??

Also need to check out engine bay cooling fans, they did work but just want to test, as not sure if they are working now.

Regards

Hi Martin,

Glad to hear your radio is all up and running , but your discription with regard to the 7 and 3 pin plugs I ca`nt understand. My Radio has a flying 11 pin plug that connects the power x2, and the speakers, the other flying lead has a circular 7 pin din socket, which is either for the clock unit, or the control stalk ( ca`nt remember which is which ) the other is a chassis mounted 6 pin din socket, again for either of the two functions above.
The water temp gauge could just be bad connections on the Thermo switch which is mounted just above the water pump. It has two connections on it, and the body of the switch is earthed via the engin, just screwed in....no wire. The two wires go directly to the gauge unit via a number of connectors, but I would check the switch connector out first.
To check out the rear cooling fans, if you have not got A/C.....there are two thermo switches mounted on the casing by the turbo, just short the two connections out on each one, and the fans should work. I am only going by the circuit, but some other member might know a better way

John

Hi John

Yes the round din plug goes to the radio unit above the cassette, and the plugs described are actually as the schematic, might be one of the first units possibly .

I will get a picture and PM you it.

Regards

Martin

The rear cooling fans now theres another problem evolving, Shorted out top sensor and fan for cooling came on, shorted out bottom sensor nowt. need to prove sensor, is it best to if water proof drop into some boilking water and check?, also front two radiator fans need to be checked is it similar in that you shart out the sensor on the base of the rad.

Now for something else spent all day messing with the coolant checked bleeds and set as per manual but feel not right, what is the way to drain the system and reprime.

Help

Right Martin, as you can read circuit diag`s, I have posted below the explaination and cct of the rear fan cooling system, rather than explain it myself. Have a read, and let me know if there is anything else you want





With regard to the bottom sensor that you shorted out but nothing happened....it wont be the sensor its self....so no boiling water please If you look at the cct, you will most probably find some other relay or sensor might have to operate first. For info thermo sw 575 is the upper one in the car, and 574 is the lower one.

You can try shorting out the connections on the rad thermo switches and see what happens..no problem with that.

When you say "messing about with the coolant" what exactly do you mean

Cheers

John

Hi John
Thanks for the reply, will look into the circuit today.

Regarding the coolant, felt the need to bleed out the system so undone the bleed points at front by rad and on housing on engine, all looked okay then thought about just openeing bleeds and draining out system but only got about 4 litres out, removed bottom rad hose near to bleed and got about another 3 litres out. repalced some antifreeze and topped up and ran engine, feeling pipes not sure if system full so rebleed and checked, seems okay, but just for my own peice of mind want to know where the points you bleed from as the coolant is a horrible brown colour even after adding some so pretty convinced not got all out.

Also on another note when the engine runs it really kicks out white smoke, Is this normal ? is it still on choke ? or worse , theres no water on the dipstick nor does it really appear to have lost any water.

Regards

Martin

Even though the circuit shows a 60 degree oil temp switch as well as the air temp switches, the two cars I have looked at don't have the oil temp switch and so if the top air switch is shorted the engine fans should run.

The fans both could possibly need a bearing overhaul by now, a bit of time but not overly difficult.

[BIG_MVS]

Early cars (86-88) had the switch (in the rhs of the sump), later cars 88 onwards didn't.

If you short the 2 wires on the bottom sensor it should illuminate a warning light on your dash (a picture of a turbo from memory).

So top 2 wires on the sensor both fans should come on, bottom 2 warning light on the dash. If this does not happen have a mix and play with the wires. My old GTA had problems because someone in the past didn't put the wires back correctly to the sensors so nothing was working.