Adaptronic JIL

Hi Martin,

I expect that will work fine with Adaptronic, very neat

Lee's car had the same TPS wiring issue as dave's. It isn't the TPS going off the track but the fact that they were both using the original idle/wot switch rarther than a pot and the wiring was such that the 5V rail from the ECU was being shorted to ground when WOT was reached. Consiquently the map signal was vanishing. Dave had a throttle pot ready to install, he wipped that on and we calibrated it up, works fine now.

I see... then the water temp sensor would short out too and cause extra fuelling, at least for a short time.

I've used later 3 litre throttle pots, still struggle with the throttle response, and the idle never seems to work perfectly, but well enough to be usable. Getting on for a cumulative 10k miles on the engines I've done, one being driven every day

One complaint I have with adaptronic over other ECU's is with the accel pump effect. It never works brilliantly, usually because there isn't enough sensitivity in the TPS. I've taken to calibrating the TPS so that half throttle reads as 100% in the ECU. That way you get twice the observed movement and the sensitivity is doubled as a result. That with carefull setting of the async pump works pretty well. A better solution would be a reverse log pot on the throttle instead of a linear one, but they don't occur very often

Re the coolant sensor, and mat, they work reference to ground, they are not connected to the 5v rail. In the present loom only the map sensor runs on that supply. A big over-fuel will occur as a result of adaptronic defaulting to 100% load if the map signal vanishes. The ECU will think you're at 300kpa, or whatever your maximum load is set to.

One complaint I have with adaptronic over other ECU's is with the accel pump effect. It never works brilliantly, usually because there isn't enough sensitivity in the TPS. I've taken to calibrating the TPS so that half throttle reads as 100% in the ECU. That way you get twice the observed movement and the sensitivity is doubled as a result.

Now that's a plan. You could achieve something similar by switching a potential divider in on the original limit switch setup so the ECU sees a sudden jumo in i/p voltage. There can't be anything much more complicated in the orignal Renix.

Have you also met the issue with closed loop running? I have an innovate more or less permanently on the daily driver and we noticed that when you're in rapid learn and with all parameters set such that it should run open loop below 2000rpm (or whatever) it still screws up the idle because it keeps altering the mixture too much (nearly stalling and catching it on the recovery settings).

Double checked the diagram and of course you're right about the 5v supply

Yeah, you could rig something with the orignal throttle switch as you say, I think they have an idle switch as well as WOT don't they ? a 1k pull-up from the 5v rail to the idle switch pin (with the common of the switch to earth) would suffice so that you had 0v at idle and 5v when there is throttle movement. you could play with the adc settings in Wari to show the 5v as 50% throttle, or whatever number works best I found the GTA's engine doesn't need much (if any!) pump after 1500rpm so an idle switch arranged as above would work well enough to get rid of the stutter comming off idle.

Re closed-loop, I havn't ever used it so I couldn't comment sorry. I'm a bit old-skool when it comes to tuning, I don't trust much, least of all software. I hear it works well for some people. Have you had a snoop around the www.adaptronic.com.au forum ? I think the problem you describe has been discussed before, worth a search. Maybe it's a firmware glitch, I'm guessing your using the latest ? so far for me it has been pretty glitch free.

Trigger wheel?

Always with adaptronic, unless your fortunate enough to have a Renault with 60-2 adaptronic doesn't like the renix pattern much.

Help! Is there any easy way of finding out which one is fitted to your car without dropping the engine and splitting the box off?

You will have the std Renault flywheel pattern .Three big teeth before a gap equally spaced ... I'm getting a batch of pulley trigger units made up if you want to go that way .It's the best way with any aftermarket ECU .

It's 99.99% likely to be an original pattern. You can get around this by fitting a trigger wheel ala Clee, or because you've not got a turbo up top, you could run one off the end of the camshaft using oneof the 25t timing covers that has a port on both sides (like where the dizzy is but t'other side). With this setup, the adapt will run full sequential.

If you're running seperate exhausts, then you'll have plenty of space to fit a trigger wheel on the crank pulley.

The Adaptronic is unusual in that it allows setup of a 66 tooth trigger and doesn't need a concept of #1 cylinder - almost all other ECU's do. With a trigger wheel, you can run whatever ECU you like.

Sounds good to me how much they gonna be? Also when they gonna be ready? On a slightly different topic whatever happened to the carbon fibre storage lids did you go as far as getting any made?

I looked at putting a wheel on the cam for future stuff .I used a 25t turbo oil feed to get some space and fit ickle trig wheel in a ali dizzy case back

It's 99.99% likely to be an original pattern. You can get around this by fitting a trigger wheel ala Clee, or because you've not got a turbo up top, you could run one off the end of the camshaft using oneof the 25t timing covers that has a port on both sides (like where the dizzy is but t'other side). With this setup, the adapt will run full sequential.

If you're running seperate exhausts, then you'll have plenty of space to fit a trigger wheel on the crank pulley.

The Adaptronic is unusual in that it allows setup of a 66 tooth trigger and doesn't need a concept of #1 cylinder - almost all other ECU's do. With a trigger wheel, you can run whatever ECU you like.

I'm not running adap unit i'm running an emerald unit as the garage mapping the engine use them on the rally cars they build so have a lot of knowledge on them. Yeah running straight through seperate exhausts for ease of plumbing and also free up space for cc.

Should be early next week .The brackets are £65 ish but you also need to get a 6.5" 36/1 trigger wheel ,sensor and some shielded wire and I need to get the trig wheel mounted to a pulley unless you are confident you can get it fitted dead central and sturdy ..
http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html

I have one of the carbon lids in the car but no-one else seemed to want them so I've not bothered to get any more knocked up .
I keep on at Stephen to let me sort out the club shop and get some stuff sorted but ......................

Sounds good let me know when you have them n i'll pop a cheque in the post, getting it fitted shouldn't be a problem i'll leave that in the hands of the garage. Shame about the lids finally got round to thinking about tidying the interior n came across the pic you posted way back they looked the part.

Clee,
Any chance of a pic of the carbon lids with an approxc price???

StephenB

You can attach a hinge to the normal std side or I've hinged mine at the back .
It's real CF both sides but has a fibreglass filling otherwise at 3mill thick it was getting a silly price for what it is .The A logo is then pencil engraved and wax filled in white .I honestly can't remember how much were ,was a few years ago now .I would guestimate around £40 for a one off .