Turbo Boost Gauge Fitment

If it's connected to the manifold , after the throttle body ,you should be seeing vacuum at idle .Here's a pic ......as my newly rebuilt turbo is off ,the guy didn't tighten the housing bolts and it's pisssin oil out the rear

Done it!!!!

Fitted Big MVS's ECU and all the bleed valve paraphernalia today.

WOW

First run it spiked off the gauge, oops! Quickly turned down the wick and had a few further test/adjustment runs and now its holding at 14psi and spiking at 16ish. The next step up on the valve makes it hold at 16psi but it seems less happy so i turned it down again.

It makes such a difference, the first time i floored it, it just made me laugh. I does seem a bit more "laggy" but i have a feeling that's because the on-boost acceleration is soooooooo much better- kept up nicely with a 996 Porsche 911 on the way home in 3rd.....

Anyway the next thing is to ask you guys about heat 'cause after a couple of runs it was sitting well above the 90c mark. I replaced all the coolant last year, should it need it again already? I must admit it's getting a bit smelly when you open the rad cap....

Anyway, just to say thanks so so much for all your help, especially Lee, my wastegate actuator arm would not have moved without you.

Bring on Cadwell Park on Tues!

Good work Jon I'd keep it at 14 ,anymore and you'll start to get fueling issues or worse .
It will run hot if you are giving it the beans for any length of time.I've put a BIG rad on mine and that does the trick .It'll still run above 90 for lap after lap but as soon as you let off it drops straight back below .
Cadwell will be a bit of a learning curve

I know!!

To be honest with you that's what I've been looking forward to. I'll just be the slowest there for a while

Ok, so i went out a lot longer today and having read the forum a bit i think i suffer from "boost loss" as it'll go up to 15psi then fall to 6-7 then gradually rise back to 15 then fall etc etc As i understand things this is not a spike as it peaks higher than that momentarily on upshifts and hard acceleration.

What i'm not sure about is how to cure this! Should i instant gasket all my boost hoses?

Cheers

Jon

Sounds more like the actuator not holding .Is it newish with your turbo upgrade ?

Not sure! Probably not though....

It was a little loose in the top RH corner but i couldn't get a spanner on it.

It was happening at motorway speeds Depress the throttle, the boost winds up to 15 then falls off slowly to about 7 then winds up again. However it will hold steady boost say whilst on the motorway or going up through the gears.....

Finally fitted my Bailey dump valve!!



For once i think I've done a reasonably neat job of it too

Been out for a quick spin and it definitely seems to spool up quicker, spike less and hold boost better. I will report further after taking it to Cambridge tomorrow, but for now it seems to have withstood Cadwell reasonably well apart from the alternator wire there and a possibly binding rear D/S brake which squeaks a little now.

Finished setting up and fitting Jules's Turbosmart today

While i was at it i thought i'd investigate why i've no vacuum reading on my boost gauge, swapped the hoses around a little and that definitely made things worse so i put everything back and i've plumbed in my gauge to what i think is the map sensor feed as the DV won't give a vacuum. This shows that the car is idling on -16psi and on overrun -20psi. Is this ok? I know earlier in the thread someone mentioned it should be -20 at idle and said that it was caused by a faulty dump valve but mines new so it can't be that can it? My IAV-manifold pipe keeps partially collapsing so hopefully Mr Dell will bring a new one to Croix, but surely that wouldn't affect the pressure......

Any suggestions?

as the DV won't give a vacuum.

I must confirm that the feed from the manifold to the dump valve will give you both vacuum, and boost. I suggest that that you tee the boost gauge into this pipe that goes to the dump valve from the manifold as suggested by Lee many postings back

I already did, but on my car for some reason on my car there is no vacuum reading from the DV hose. It's buried in a lot of cable holders but Lee and I wondered if there was a non return valve installed. In the end i'll fish it all out to get to the bottom of it all but for the moment just thought i'd check that the reading i'd got was ok....

I already did, but on my car for some reason on my car there is no vacuum reading from the DV hose. It's buried in a lot of cable holders but Lee and I wondered if there was a non return valve installed. In the end i'll fish it all out to get to the bottom of it all but for the moment just thought i'd check that the reading i'd got was ok....

But hang on, the dump valve cannot work without vacuum, the very action of removing your foot off the throttle, produces the vacuum in the manifold which operates the dump valve to disperse the unwanted boost on deceleration. If there was a non return valve fitted, the dump valve would surely not release.