Aaaarrrghhhhh !!!!

Add to that the low/lumpy feeling on the starter .

That suggests valve timing out on 1 camshaft or both. If this is the case, I dont want to depress you, but.....No 1 piston might have come up and touched a valve, bent it a fraction, causing it not to close fully. Still suggest first test is checking the gaps on No 1 valves, before you do anything else. Have a good nights sleep first though

I'm 360 out
The gaps on # 1 are 0.001" up but that could easily be my feel .
Someone check my brain please ..............

With #1 at TDC comp ( # 5 on the rock ) the rotor is pointing at .............5

It's got to be the cam timing setup but I'm confused as to how .Got to be the alignment sequence in that A & B should line up in the right portion of the full cycle .B must follow A through 270 not the other way round

I still have the no compression issue on 1 though .The only noticeable thing is the exhaust thread is some 2 mm higher ( ie more threads showing above the nut ) than all the others .

If your rotor arm points to 5 when 1 is on firing stroke, then you have 1&5 (at least) HT leads transposed.

As for no comp on #1, if it were a cam timing issue, then 2 and 3 would show the same problem, however you'd have to be miles out to get to zero compression. SO a valve is being held open (assuming your spark plug is fitted). Do you still have zero compression with the rocker cover off? (remember my issue in that area!). Are you using ally rockers or cast iron ones?

IF you've got your chains on wrong, then when you came to adjust the tappets, there's a good chance you would end up adjusting too much clearance somewhere = #1 exhaust possibly- this should be obvious by the amount of play you have in it when you rotate the engine a bit more (ie tappets only ever have the specified clearance, or none at all when the valve is being opened)

However you can't accidentally adjust a tappet so that it holds a valve open... at least not with feelers, unless being really dumb.

I've not got the leads transposed 'cause they aint on I'm looking at the bare rotor ................Rockers are off ,all plugs are out .

dp

I'm 360 out

With #1 at TDC comp ( # 5 on the rock ) the rotor is pointing at .............5

I still have the no compression issue on 1 though .The only noticeable thing is the exhaust thread is some 2 mm higher ( ie more threads showing above the nut ) than all the others .

You`ve really got us thinking here Lee
Assuming you are checking TDC with the drill bit throu the appropriate hole, into the crank counter weight slot, then if No. 5 is on the rock, that suggests to me that the cam shaft for pots 4-5-6, is correctly timed, in relation to the crank. Now turn crank 360`, and if No. 1 is now on the rock, then cam shaft for pots 1-2-3 is correctly timed. If this is the case, as you noticed that the rotor arm is pointing to No.5, your problem could well be just that....... Ign timing 360` out.
With regard to the exhaust thread, has the adjuster been changed? if so it could be a slightly longer one. If not, I would check the height of the pushrod cup above the head when fully up, against the others. I hope for your sake it is not different (assuming that has not been changed)
Hope this is of help
John

You can't get the ignition timing 360 deg "out" other than by swapping HT leads around. The position of the rotor arm is locked to the position of the right hand camshaft innit (unlike an Atmo, John).

You could theoretically have the RH camshaft 180 degrees out but both banks would be in identical phase - ie 1 & 5 would be on the rock at the same time, and the engine would be REALLY tough to turn for one rotation, then a doddle for the next one.

[quote="Stunned Monkey"]You can't get the ignition timing 360 deg "out" other than by swapping HT leads around. The position of the rotor arm is locked to the position of the right hand camshaft innit (unlike an Atmo,) John.
[quote]

Hi Stunned Monkey
I take your point. So what that means is with TDC confirmed No.1 on compression, with both No.1 valves closed, and the drill bit in position in the crank web slot, (most important) then if No.5 valves are on the rock, both ign and valve timing are correct. This is a function of rotor arm tied to camshaft which drives the valves for No. 1 pot, and its position with respect to the crank and the LH camshaft.
John

Not necessarily correct, but definitely not 180 deg (cam) out.

My best guess would be one cam is a bit out, and/or the tappets were adjusted at the wrong point. As to no compression on number 1, well, there're only so may possibilities... bent valve (if it's cam timing, you might expect all three on the same bank to be bent), over adjusted tappet (unlikely), or rocker cover holding valve down (my particular "favourite"!)

I'm 180 out on 123 ...............1 and 5 are on rock at the same time .It's just I'm so strong I can't feel the extra load

I'm taking the timing cover off tomorrow to see what's to do ..........In the meantime I have been sitting polishing my rim .
Sometimes I sits and thinks and other times I just sits.
This was a ' just sits ' job .

I'm 180 out on 123 ...............1 and 5 are on rock at the same time .

At least you know what the prob is now Lee. Good luck tomorrow, but do the two tests with the drill bit after you have sorted camshaft 123, before you refit the timing cover. That way you can be absolutely sure all is correct
John

I have about 3 different marks on various bits to set TDC Jon .Pulley mount trigger wheel ,exposed back face of flywheel and a pulley notch set to a screw hole in the timing cover and I still manage to feck it up
I'm of a mind to just rotate the offending cam 180 then as you say see what that does .
One good thing is that I know I have good oil pressure as it's been primed silly for the last two days .I also have a brand new starter and battery on the bench ...........

keep plugging away lee, keeping my fingers crossed for the valves.......

I'm not thinking about bent things at the minute Richard I really can't face pulling the lump again this month