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Postby stephendell » Tue May 20, 2008 6:14 pm

That sounds like the same problem Mr Law recently had when one of his cams wasn't turning due to a loose bolt or something missing.

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I've extended the theme to mirrors and indicators. Does that get me extra black balls? Surely having the first A610 BTS must be worth an extra one as well!
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Postby clee » Tue May 20, 2008 6:29 pm

Not turning enough to even attempt to fire so I don't think it's that sort of thing ............................I hope .It's always been a botch to start with a slightly low battery so I'm hoping it's that or another TDC issue .
Mirrors are OK but black indicators are a definite no-no .
BTS Histree and Correction rules innit aiiiiii !!!
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Postby JohnC » Tue May 20, 2008 8:30 pm

clee wrote:The starter engages and will move the car in gear but it is really slow . Any ideas ???

I would check the voltage on starter while cranking with my trusty meter. Low voltage there would indicate poor earth, or poor connection from batt to starter. A solid 12volts would indicate faulty internal solinoid contacts.
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 11:04 am

Won't spin more than 200 rpm ................I think I've messed the timing up somehow :oops: Took all the plugs out and it spins over like a good-un .I'll have to whip the cover off and investigate :roll:
The book says to check from bank B .I did ,aligned marks on B then spun clockwise and A lined up 270 degrees after ,360 turn then it starts again .But I seem to remember that on another engine I did, the same alignment results in A lining up 270 after B :?
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 3:37 pm

Update ..............No compression on #1 at all .All the rest fine .Feels like it's hitting against comp when on the starter ,I can feel a lump when turning .
I'm :? :? at the minute so having a couple of brain lubricators ,well a six pack really 8) :roll:
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Postby simontaylor » Wed May 21, 2008 4:08 pm

can you remove a rocker cover and see if one of the valves is stuck open... maybe???

Even so, the engine should start on 5, when I had 2 HT leads reversed, mine started on 4, allbeit that was not just after a rebuild.
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 4:29 pm

That's what I'm now thinking .......It should fire and run on 5 unless I've got the timing way out .
Can I be 360 out ???
All sprocket marks align but the last two builds have sprung to mind and there's a difference I think .
Align bank B (4,5,6) then turn clockwise about 270 and bank A aligns ,360 and you start again .This is how this engine is but......................The last two I seem to recall went , A aligned , 270 ish and B aligns 360 start again .
Perhaps I'm disappearing up my own exhaust ........................
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Wed May 21, 2008 6:54 pm

As long as you don't confuse the pages in the manual that relate to the odd fires with those for even fires (ditto the specific sprockets), you should be fine. You don't need to remember A from B, just that the chains go on with the furthest away first... if you think about it on that basis, you can't transpose A and B. Be creful not to confuse the bits where the manual talks about aligning with the timing mark, and when it talks about aligning with the keyway

I've known more than one engine that kind of "catches" when cranking as if one cylinder lights up too early and tries to punch the piston back down. After a pause, it carries on and fires fine. The same engine with a DeLorean (old style industrial strength) starter spins without any problems. Yours is a brand new tight engine, I wouldn't worry too much.

Valves can get stuck open, but not easily stuck shut. If you did manage to forget/lose the locking pin, you could be striking a valve...!

I'd check your HT lead order before anything else... if you have two transposed...?

Lots of thoughts, but it'll probably be something simple!
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 7:01 pm

I've got no compression on #1 at all :?:
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Postby turbo 5 » Wed May 21, 2008 7:11 pm

Have a look on your work bench, check for:

2x big end bolts :D or
3x piston rings :shock: or
a giggling tool elf, if you find the giggling tool elf, then put him on the rack until he tells you what he did :D :D

Sure you will find the problem, its not rocket science, as rocket science is easier!!

See you on Sunday maybe?

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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 7:17 pm

:lol: Big help numbnuts :!:
On Sunday I will be landscaping the new pond and putting the sweetcorn in .Fed up with French cars at the minute :roll: :wink:
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Postby JohnC » Wed May 21, 2008 7:31 pm

clee wrote:I've got no compression on #1 at all :?:

I`m with simontaylor on this one, remove the rocker cover, and as I am sure you have adjusted the value gaps on rebuild, recheck them, as a slightly increased gap will indicate a stuck valve slightly open, next remove plug and with a long piece of dowel down plug hole, rembering your 4 stroke cycle, see how valve operation relates to the height of the piston. This should give you a rough idea if the valve timing is out.
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 7:50 pm

I'm pretty convinced it's down to the timing .I shall take the dizzy cover off and see where the arm is at TDC compression # 1 .All looks ok on the rockers/valves .I can't tell if a valve is slightly open but the others should fire if all good timing wise ??
Add to that the low/lumpy feeling on the starter .
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Postby JohnC » Wed May 21, 2008 8:03 pm

clee wrote:I'm pretty convinced it's down to the timing .............................................................can't tell if a valve is slightly open

I take it you mean valve timing, not ign timing, .................and on the second point ...check with feeler guage.
I also take it you have a spark.
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Postby clee » Wed May 21, 2008 8:24 pm

Not checked for spark yet Jon ,got sidetracked when # 1 turned up blank .
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