electronic door lock

I just spent an hour or so stripping down the offside rear passenger trim to gain access to the electronic door opener and locking mechanism.

Found the connectors to the electronic door lock, removed and sprayed with switch cleaner, but it hasnt solved the remote door locking problem.

Basically the remote keyfob (which use to work) only operates now and again. I thought a dickie connection might be responsible. Any suggestions ?

Check that both doors unlock / lock using the key. The key in either side will lock/unlock both doors if all's working OK.

If not then hopefully the problem is the offside central locking motors or one of the relays.

If it all works OK with the key then it might be the decoder or door locking timer relay.

When inserted in the drivers door it locks and unlocks both doors.

However, when you turn the key in the passenger door then only the passenger door locks or unlocks.

Hi - sounds to me like your drivers/offside central locking motor could have failed. Might also be the relay.

I had exactly what you've descibed on my Atmo - and it was the motor.

I suspect......

When you turn the key in the drivers door it is the mechanism locking the drivers side, not the motor. I expect there's more resistance to the key when you lock the drivers side than the passenger side because it's not being assisted by the motor - would this be correct?

(You might also find it's problematic to lock the drivers door occasionally with the key, if the mechanism is a little worn or misaligned.)

The passenger side is hopefully fine - but if there's a problem with the microswitch on the passenger side or the r.h. relay you'd get the same result.

I'd suggest using a multi-meter on the drivers side motor unit or borrow a replacement before spending any money just in case.

It might even be possible to swap the motors between sides and see if the problem moves. Not sure on this but someone else can confirm.

Is your remote keyfob operating the passenger side correctly? If so, hopefully a new drivers side central locking motor or relay will sort out the problem completely.

.

Basically the remote keyfob (which use to work) only operates now and again. I thought a dickie connection might be responsible. Any suggestions ?

First things first, does the red led come on every time every time you press the fob, or only sometimes? I found a while ago that as the batteries get old they seem to go intermittent, possibly surface corrosion on the batts, take them out clean them and check, but if after a while the led goes intermittent again, change batts. Top tip of today, they use 389 batts, available on a Hyundai card (10 of them) from poundland at a quid for 50 batts of various sizes.
I have both door opening, and door locking circuit diagrams if these would be of help, let me know.

However, when you turn the key in the passenger door then only the passenger door locks or unlocks.

Keyfob battery wouldn't stop the passenger door lock from unlocking the drivers door, but if both motors are OK then it would be a really cheap repair if it is just the battery. Here's hoping....

The light on the keyfob comes on everytime I press it, but both doors remain locked / unlocked.

Sometimes (and it is very occasional) the remote locking works and both door's locks open and close.
I suspected a dodgy connection drivers side because I once tapped the area around where the locking mechanism is and it sprang into life. Hence I thought a dry connector maybe the cause.

Bl@@dy french electrics.

John C,
A circuit diagram would be gratefully received. It might give me a clue as to whether it's the drivers door motor, the remote locking receiver or A.N.Other.

Forgot to mention.
The button on the dash used to lock / unlock the doors operates fine.

Forgot to mention.
The button on the dash used to lock / unlock the doors operates fine.

Thats a good starting point. Logic says locking motors both ok, and fault lies in the remote locking cct. I would leave the across the door locking manualy to one side for the moment, I suspect thats a secondary fault. I will get the cct posted asap,
Tell me, when the fob does work, is it from a particular angle to the car? the reason I ask is that there are 3 photo diodes in the rx, and point in different directions, one to the rear, one each at 45degrees facing each door. I had 2 of them fail, replaced them and cured my probs. Not saying thats your prob, but could be. Try the fob through back window, and from each side.

Here is the cct. Let me know if any part that is numbered, you want identified. Good luck

[BIG_MVS]

Common GTA problem.

I have similar problems, my passenger door does not shut on the remote fob either, also my drivers door is on the emergency pull as the electronic door release is inop (works on the passenger side though ).

I'm convinced it's the little motors, I think there are two in the door lock, I'm going to strip down as you have done and clean or replace.

Sorry I can't give you any more advice than the bloody obvious but keep us informed so I can do as you have done to fix yours

Here is a little test to check the operation of the plip Rx. First we must check the batts are OK in the fob, and the led comes on each and every time the fob is pressed.
Remove the passenger footrest panel. Behind it you will find a connector, one side connected to the loom, and the other (if the renault alarm is not fitted) has got only a yellow link in it. Well it is in the Atmo, I expect it is there in the turbo as well as the same alarm was available for both models.
The pulses come direct from the remote Rx, via 1 connector, to that connector in the footwell, when the fob is pressed. Connect a meter, preferably an analog one set to 12volts,Black lead to the Black wire in the connector, and the Red lead to the Orange/blue tracer wire, where a kick will show when the fob is pressed for the lock condition, and Red lead to the Orange/green tracer wire, for the unlock pulse. You can use a digital meter, but the pulses are quick, and possibly if it is an auto ranging meter, the pulse will not last long enough to operate the meter. If not using a meter, a 12volt bulb with a couple of wires soldered to it is just as good. Hope this is of interest to you.

I have similar problems, my passenger door does not shut on the remote fob either, also my drivers door is on the emergency pull as the electronic door release is inop (works on the passenger side though ).

I'm convinced it's the little motors, I think there are two in the door lock,

Hi Martin
I`m surprised you`ve time for the forum But two things, What happens when you press the lock/unlock button on the dash, and yes there are two motors on eack side, 0ne lock/unlock, and the other door opener.
I have a lazy door opener one, which I am going to have a look at some time, but I bought a spare a few months ago from renault for around £25

John

When inserted in the drivers door it locks and unlocks both doors.

However, when you turn the key in the passenger door then only the passenger door locks or unlocks.

I have now had a chance to try and work out how this locking/unlocking system works, and have come to the conclusion that it is the actuator in the PASSANGER side that is faulty.
Clearly the Door Locking Timer Relay, and the motors in the actuators are all working, as everything is OK when the buttons on the dash are pressed. However on reading the cct diagram, I note that the central locking system can be operated from 3 positions. 1/ Buttons on dash. 2/ remote control. 3/ From a pulse being mechanically generated in the actuators, when key is turned, or inside buttons (rear side windows) are operated.
If you follow the cct, there is a wire coming from 247 Dash button pin 5, going to pin 1 on relay (lock). 247 pin 6, goes to pin 3 on relay (unlock). Remote control is similar.Pin 2 on 249, Plip Rx, goes to pin 1 on relay, and pin 4 on 249 goes to pin 3 on relay. Now if you follow the two wires C4 and C5 on R173, you will see that they go via R5 to both actuators each. These carry the mechanically generated pulses to pins 1 and 3 on the relay from the actuators.
For reference relay connections are as follows:- Pins 1 and 3, triggers the relay. Pin 2 is Earth. Pin 5 is 12volts. Pins 4 and 6 carry the Lock/Unlock timed pulses which operate the motors in the actuators.
See Quote above.
The reason the passanger door Locks/Unlocks with the key is as scottydog says, because it is being mechanically opened, but as it is not producing a pulse, it does not operate the relay, and therefore drivers door does not respond. However as the drivers actuator does produce a pulse, the passangers door will respond.
What I would do next as the trim is off on the drivers side, would be to put an analoge meter between Earth and pins 1 or 4 (lock/unlock) on the actuator, and see if you can detect a kick when manually operating the drivers side lock. If you can detect a kick, then remove the trim on the passengers side, repeat the above with the meter on the passangers actuator now, and I suspect no kick will be dectected when mechanically operating the passangers lock. If this is so, beg borrow or steel an actuator, and check operation. Beware of one thing, I seem to remember being told that the door opening actuators are common to both sides, but the lock/unlock actuator is handed. Check first, it is just a dim memory.
Once you have cured this fault, we move on to the Remote Control. One thing at a time though. Hope this helps you.

John

I seem to remember being told that the door opening actuators are common to both sides, but the lock/unlock actuator is handed.

When I fitted my Renault sourced replacement locking motor I had to remove the small plastic lever (the bit that the mechanism moves up/down as the key is turned and triggers the lock/unlock voltage) from one side and replace it on the other. I assumed this meant it's same for each side - but haven't looked at the other one.

Also - have you cleaned the contacts on the passenger side - just in case it's just a dirty connection stopping the drivers door motor being triggered? Also check the mechanism is actually moving the lever up/down.

Good luck!


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Hi JohnC - could you confirm something for me pls? My diagram looks the same as yours but is differently numbered. I take it 25 and 26 on yours are the central locking motors (marked as 135/136 on mine)? The descriptions are "front door solenoids" in my book - I think my book is wrong. My previous page has a couple of components described as "front door locking motors" but they only have two connections. I assume now these are the door release actuators. Would make much more sense as I couldn't suss how the locking motors would work with only two wires. Had me more than a little confused yesterday.