GTA Turbo fuel system

I'm still trying to get the 'RED SHED' running. I have to work outside so now the warmer weather is getting closer I hope to start her up.
However, having got the recon turbo, exhaust and oil systems hooked up I have turned to the fuel system, problems !!!
I have started at the front but the primary pump does not function. Check your earths you say, but the electric at the front end all seem to work.
IE Instruments, fuel level on computer, lights, door window motors and locks even the radio. All of which is very encouraging considering the car has stood for a number of years.
Question 1, does this pump run all the time with the ignition on, pumping to the rear tank and back to the front?
Question 2, having removed this pump can I test it by putting a 12 volt current thru it ?
Question 3, Can i assume that the LH door pillar ground is ok as there are no probs with other front electrics (yet!!)
Question 4, Is there a relay somewhere that I have missed.

Question 1, does this pump run all the time with the ignition on, pumping to the rear tank and back to the front?
Question 2, having removed this pump can I test it by putting a 12 volt current thru it ?
Question 3, Can i assume that the LH door pillar ground is ok as there are no probs with other front electrics (yet!!)
Question 4, Is there a relay somewhere that I have missed.

Hi.
I am surprised that no one has picked this up before. 11.26am yesterday. What have you done to deserve the cold shoulder.
Anyway let me get the ball rolling, then someone will be so mad at my assumptions they will correct me thus getting you the correct answers you require.(hope my humour does'nt offend you )
Q1. I am assuming that the same principle applies to the turbo as the atmo, as it is a safety feature I would suggest that the front pump will not run until the engin rotates, as it might, as in the atmo, be switched on by a relay being energised by pulses from the coil, or it could be some other pulse in the turbo, but I am sure someone will either confirm or correct. However having read a lot of posts there is something about priming in a turbo, which I know nothing about, which may have some bearing on the subject. Someone please clarify.
Q2. These pumps are 12v, so yes they will run with voltage across them. Dont run it for too long, as they rely on the fuel running through them to lubricate them.
Q3.Difficult to answer this. So to be sure check yourself.
Q4. See answer to question one.
Now perhaps we can get some real answers come on guys lets help this disheartned and neglected turbo owner.

Turn the ignition , but do not start and you should hear the rear pump prime from the rear tank for about 2 secs .I believe Jon is right and the front pump only runs when the engine is turning .The fuel pump relay is in with the ECU between the rear seats .There are two ,the one with the big wires is for the injectors .
Never had an issue with the front pump but I know peeps have had power issues with it ,no power feed etc .Use the search facility .
Type in PUMP and for author BEN

Turn the ignition , but do not start and you should hear the rear pump prime from the rear tank for about 2 secs

Thanks Lee, I knew that I had read something about priming. It all makes sense now.I take it the fuel pump relay between the two rear seats is the one that includes the 2sec timer, and is only for the rear pump. As the relay for the atmo fuel pump is under the dash (RHS). Is the front pump relay for the turbo in the same area?
John

Turn the ignition , but do not start and you should hear the rear pump prime from the rear tank for about 2 secs

Thanks Lee, I knew that I had read something about priming. It all makes sense now.I take it the fuel pump relay between the two rear seats is the one that includes the 2sec timer, and is only for the rear pump. As the relay for the atmo fuel pump is under the dash (RHS). Is the front pump relay for the turbo in the same area?
John

The ECU controls the relay and holds it open for 2 seconds when not cranking. I still have a feeling that the front pump primes on the Turbo otherwise how can the rear pump make pressure if there is no fuel coming to it. I have two high pressure pumps on mine (front and back) and I can definately hear the front one prime on ignition.

both pumps prime at the same time and are triggered by the same relay beside the ecu.

i know this for sure your right honourable john sir!

The ECU controls the relay and holds it open for 2 seconds when not cranking. I still have a feeling that the front pump primes on the Turbo otherwise how can the rear pump make pressure if there is no fuel coming to it. I have two high pressure pumps on mine (front and back) and I can definately hear the front one prime on ignition.

Just reading this I have just realised that I have the Service manual for the D501 Turbo. Under Fuel system, General Spec, The Priming pump is "at front under tank", The other is called the Electric Feed Pump, "inside rear right-hand wing". Each have a filter. Unfortunatly there is no writeup on how it operates, but I would assume that the 2sec prime voltage, according to the above, is applied to the front pump, confirming David,s contribution. Lets hope this helps redadare. I also have a diagram of the whole "Fuel circuit diagram" but not for the relay part of it. I think that comes in another manual. I will try and post the diagram, but I am off touring on Thursday for a few weeks, and "She who must be obeyed" is nagging me to do some packing, and get the car ready. But I will try my best. Might send her to town tomorrow, and get a chance then.
Watch this space.
Incidently I also have the manual for the A610, so I looked in there, incase they used the same priming system. However according to all the diagrams, it appears to have only one fuel pump, and one fuel pump relay, can anyone confirm, as it seems a bit strange to me.
John

both pumps prime at the same time and are triggered by the same relay beside the ecu.

i know this for sure your right honourable john sir!

Good man Simon, You got in while I was writing my above contribution. Well at least redadare has got a definitive response to his questions. Thats what matters innit
John

Might send her to town tomorrow, and get a chance then.

Sent her off early

[BIG_MVS]

Yes they both prime on ignition, then both run when the engine is running. My front pump was knackered on my old car, pretty easy to change and get to, check the relay first though.

The ECU controls the relay and holds it open for 2 seconds when not cranking. I still have a feeling that the front pump primes on the Turbo otherwise how can the rear pump make pressure if there is no fuel coming to it. I have two high pressure pumps on mine (front and back) and I can definately hear the front one prime on ignition.

Just reading this I have just realised that I have the Service manual for the D501 Turbo. Under Fuel system, General Spec, The Priming pump is "at front under tank", The other is called the Electric Feed Pump, "inside rear right-hand wing". Each have a filter. Unfortunatly there is no writeup on how it operates, but I would assume that the 2sec prime voltage, according to the above, is applied to the front pump, confirming David,s contribution. Lets hope this helps redadare. I also have a diagram of the whole "Fuel circuit diagram" but not for the relay part of it. I think that comes in another manual. I will try and post the diagram, but I am off touring on Thursday for a few weeks, and "She who must be obeyed" is nagging me to do some packing, and get the car ready. But I will try my best. Might send her to town tomorrow, and get a chance then.
Watch this space.
Incidently I also have the manual for the A610, so I looked in there, incase they used the same priming system. However according to all the diagrams, it appears to have only one fuel pump, and one fuel pump relay, can anyone confirm, as it seems a bit strange to me.
John

Yes, the ecu triggers the time out to the relay, which does both pumps. If you unplug the ecu, voila...no priming..

Yes, A610 only runs one high pressure pump, at the front of the car. Better than what we have on the GTA. Im running two and an uprated fuel line so both of best worlds.

Hi All.
Thanks to ALL contributors, it was a great help.
There is no doubt that the front pump is US. Started looking for a replacement (Pierburg 7 20694 13 7 310).
Checked the front LH pillar earth and all is well.
Turning the ignition on there is an audible 'click' at the relay on the back seat which 'clicks again a few seconds later'. Only bit of good news.
Thought I would go down stream today and found the main fuel pump (they are not normally white are they !!!) which is also probably US. Also looking for a replacement (Bosch 8 580 484 027).
There was also a electrical component mounted at the pump which was also white and broke in half on removal !! Wow is me. is this another relay or what. Trouble is, the parts list does not show any Renault part numbers for all of these 3 items.
This later bit has Renault harness connections so I doubt if a pirate part is available.
Is there any help on this last component.
Any good used pumps around or is it better to fit new for reliability sake.

fit new pumps and the other thing you found is a supressor that can be by passed.

before by passing this, check with a volt meter that you are getting 12v to it and 12v after, if 12v going to it and less after then by pass it and retest your fuel pump, might not be knackered!

fit new pumps and the other thing you found is a supressor that can be by passed.

before by passing this, check with a volt meter that you are getting 12v to it and 12v after, if 12v going to it and less after then by pass it and retest your fuel pump, might not be knackered!

Yes, Ive seen as low as 8v after, hence why I always bin them. Ive also seen significant loss across the connector, again, cut it out and wire direct. Its all been open to the elements for 20 years or so..

Thanks for that bit of gen. Will bin as advised.A final bit of info wanted on this subject (I hope)
I noticed that the fuel lines under the car are also heavily corroded and need replacing for the MOT. Surely there must be something better than a straight replacement of these steel pipes. What's the best solution?