Adaptronic ECU Piece of P1ss

:? It always works just dandy on the old ECU .
:

Ok, so if you had a problem with an original ecu and a TDC sensor issue, would you (a) replace the sensor, or look at the wiring, or (b) try and fabricate a trigger wheel and new sensor?

Nope

You'd do (a), so likewise do the same with the standalone.

AFAIK .......... PG's went bang then crashed into a tree ,Simon is running the old renix and Tonys given up completely ...................

Agreed, but they all lived in the comfort that their triggering worked everytime....

:? It always works just dandy on the old ECU .
:

Ok, so if you had a problem with an original ecu and a TDC sensor issue, would you (a) replace the sensor, or look at the wiring, or (b) try and fabricate a trigger wheel and new sensor?

Nope

You'd do (a), so likewise do the same with the standalone.

But I haven't got a problem with the std ECU sensor and wiring , it work just fine all the time ,so by the same logic ........................

:? It always works just dandy on the old ECU .
:

Ok, so if you had a problem with an original ecu and a TDC sensor issue, would you (a) replace the sensor, or look at the wiring, or (b) try and fabricate a trigger wheel and new sensor?

Nope

You'd do (a), so likewise do the same with the standalone.

But I haven't got a problem with the std ECU sensor and wiring , it work just fine all the time ,so by the same logic ........................

How do you know...?

For all you know, the original ECU looks for 1 volt of signal, and it can read a bare minimum of 0.5v and your just luckily floating at 0.51v.....

You don't know if your signal is as good as the original factory setup should be...

I dont now but it still works hence my thinking that if a new sensor and wire dont do it a new trig might help the old Adapt out a bit .
How much does the std ecu look out for by the way And what's the std advance and ,and .................where do can you find this info ????

I dont now but it still works hence my thinking that if a new sensor and wire dont do it a new trig might help the old Adapt out a bit .
How much does the std ecu look out for by the way And what's the std advance and ,and .................where do can you find this info ????

There's no info on it. You just need to get it to a RR and get it mapped.

If you don't mind a two hour trek, I'd recommend Engine Advantages near me. He's one of the best and most famous in the industry, does all the mental high power applications, japanese, Ford, and has just become one of my dealers and loves the Adaptronic, and doubts his need to use any other ECU. He's just fitted one on a Starlet 1.3 Turbo and made 330bhp, and now going for over 400with NOS, again controlled by the ECU - If he can't map it and get the best out of it, no one will.

IMO you can't argue wiring if the OEM ecu works fine... Dave you have to witness Lee's prob to believe it.

In MY experience, it works fine on a modified flywheel (which is running a standard NEW oem sensor)

IMO you can't argue wiring if the OEM ecu works fine... Dave you have to witness Lee's prob to believe it.

In MY experience, it works fine on a modified flywheel (which is running a standard NEW oem sensor)

At the point of repeating myself, lets use common sense..

Ok Martin, if its not the wiring/sensor, what else can it be, Seeing as identical cars are working fine?

How would a 'modified' flywheel make any difference?. That is like saying Renault\Renix didnt know what they were doing when they implemented this system over a range of 10 years on all of their vehicles...

It doesnt matter if you have a modified flywheel or not. The issue is not the fat tooth, or how many missing teeth.... What is happening is the signal strength is so low, that the ecu is getting confused of which of the 3 gaps is relevant to TDC, it may not even see one of the three, so the next time the engine is cranked, it is firing completely off its base angle, hence why it will not rev, and run massively rich.

There are over 10 Renault's currently running Adaptronics and the factory flywheel/pickup without fault.

Lee had problems with the car running bad. He has since fitted a 'newer' sensor, but still old/second hand, but the pickup is slightly longer towards the flywheel teeth, and has said the problem has improved and doesnt happen as much - does this not then point to signal strength?

I can't believe your first line about if the OEM ecu works fine, then all others should? You may find the original ecu can read between 0.1v and 1v signal, and the Adaptronic can read between 0.8v and 2v, and all that is happening is Lees sensor output is simply 0.5v for example.

Thats like saying a set of AA batteries are proven as good, as they work in one remote control to operate a TV and not another, and saying the remote is faulty, when it reality one just requires less power to send out the IR beam...

Logically then, the OEM will always work, but a standalone ecu will have problems picking that up. I know for a fact from my own car, the original ecu will still fire with a nearly dead starter motor with a very low cranking speed, whereas the standalone needs a good, normal working starter.

This is all signal related. Nothing less.

All Lee has to do to prove this is fit a brand new sensor, and run a cable (grounded) direct to the sensor and see whats what.

Signal voltage is very low at just under 500mv peak to peak. Signal strength is lowest at low rpms, ie cranking.

I get a new sensor next week ................. then we'll kno......... well we'll know summut ! If it work If not Dave can buy the sensor off me to go towards my cam trig
My loom is a bit old but then I would imagine so are all the others .It's on the list for winter .
As far as the Ren sensors go ,they are all w##k and old tech aren't they ?The air temp is ?the water also ? the idle valve sticks ,the throttle is totally ????

To get the best out of the car and Adaptronic ( which I'm in no way dissin ,it's a good peice of kit ) I'm going to upgrade the temp sensors etc when I do the loom .I can knock up a cam trigger mod on the other lump to get it sussed ,then just fit it in the car .

lee, hopefully after Bruntinthorpe, I'll have some good time over the closed season to get the ECU sorted on my car. I was finding that 1 weekend to fiddle about with it was not enough to make enough progress before the next sprint meeting and had to revert back to the Renix, which is pretty plug and play.

I seemed to be suffereing what seemed like a "leanness" problem as the manifold were getting very hot, so was the turbo, even when it had not been running on boost.

Of the dozen or so times I took it out, a couple of times I did suffer a sudden gutless situation, it was like there was no power and I had to limp home spluttering on tickover. However after turning the ignition off and restarting the car it was fine again. I did not get to the bottom of it, there was not much fuel in the car and I think it was after I had tested the rev limiter, so it could have been a fueling airlock, ignition, sensor, wiring.... who knows, but I'll be persueing it over the winter.

I wonder if I can borrow an osciliscope from work and measure the TDC voltage???

Even better, look what I found on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=009

USB powered, with full logging software, so you can analyse good and suspect trigger outputs. Not only to see the voltage, but to actually view and save the trigger output pattern sequence.

Nothing special by any means, but will do the job.

I was just looking at a similair item to that (probably because I cant spell osciliscope very well), and then I looked at the spec.... "do I look like a TV engineer, will I know what I'm doing, WIll it be anoher ebay folly"...... but for the price, I think I'll take a chance on it.
Let me know what it is like DG, don't want to out bid you?

I have a customer 5mins down the road, they design and build high spec fire detectors/alarms. I'm sure he'll have a sillyscope and know how to work it . He owes me a couple of cheques All I need to know is what and where to test ????At the plug in the bay ,then at the ECU ,then when running good and shite .

Lee, concentrate on getting the system working and dont get too diverted on get-rounds or the whys. Measure the voltage of the TDC sensor at the ECU. Check what is required for the Adaptronic, hopefully your signal will be enough? If not you'll have to measure again at the sensor end to see if there is a lot of voltage drop or not. If it is still not enough, then obviosly you will need another sensor.