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Stunned Monkey

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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:21 pm

Just fit an atmo flywheel.... (I have several spares :D )
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Postby clee » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:41 pm

Wot's a Turbo flywheel worth these days then :?: :?:
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:51 pm

lots! (over £700 from Renault)
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Postby clee » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:08 pm

Stunned Monkey wrote:lots! (over £700 from Renault)


:shock:

Been looking at a poss trigger setup , I can get the front of the pulley machined .Now the A/C has gone the smaller drive is redundant ,I think Peter chopped his off :shock:
What pattern and how should it be timed to the crank key is the question ??????
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Postby clee » Tue Jun 05, 2007 7:43 pm

edit
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:33 pm

Well there's no reason you can't put a trigger on the left cam where the dizzy isn't. Certainly the adaptronic will cheerfully take a signal off a cam, and the upshot is you can run sequential injection too. Put a standard 36/1 trigger wheel on the left using a standard dizzy drive. I've got several timing covers (actually Steve, you still have about three of them IIRC?!) which have the appropriate 'oles in the right places. The snag to this approach is that you need to open up your engine again and do the chains again...

The PRV gives so many choices as to mounting stuff to the cams, I personally hate crank stuff where things are so tight and with those flimsy pulleys. If I were to go that route, I'd have a solid ally pulley made with a steel trigger wheel mounted accurately to it by a machine shop. From memory, if the keyway points to the right cam, the engine is at TDC #1. You don't need to be super accurate - give yourself a timing mark using a dial gauge and you can get the exact figure correct in software with the use of a timing light.
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Postby peterg » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:38 pm

I did indeed chop the smaller pulley off..saved weight! :lol: Not sure what you'll need to add to get a signal though. As for Stunned Monkey's opinion on the timing set up on my car......technically with a timing light it could be could out, but the ECU will be seeing it spot on and the guy who set the system up is certain he is not wrong.....and he was responsible for the rear engined Rover 75 V8 project (RIP!)....so he has slightly more cred than Martin. The fact that it ran, and ran well is something Martin has yet to explain in rational terms!
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:54 pm

Peter, I don't think you understood my reply.

Using a dial gauge, you can find TDC EXACTLY, Mark up the pulley to the timing cover at that point and then set up your sensor to the trigger wheel. If when you then fire it up, you can see that when your software says you're running 10 degrees of advance, you can check it and adjust the trigger offset if required in software. Lee was concerned with setting up the trigger wheel itself. My point was getting it "near enough" is okay if you give yourself a way of checking it.

As to your setup. I HAVE explained myself - not my prob if you don't understand. I saw the results first hand when much of the top end Tony's map had to be tweaked when moving from the dodgy 36/1 trigger wheel to the stock flywheel because it was running too much retard. Your setup works, but it doesn't work <b>properly</b>. The actual figures in your ignition map are progressively more and more "out" the more advance is run. This is corrected by giving the figures themselves an offset.

Oh, and the First Adaptronic-run PRV was sparked up for the first time in 6 months on Friday... and driven from Hastings to Hatfield, and then on to Norfolk. It's now back in Hatfield being driven to work every day. That runs my slightly modified flywheel with a simple 66/3 pattern. Oh, and the engine (which I built) hasn't blown up ..... yet :D
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Postby peterg » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:57 pm

I wasnt expecting you to agree! The engine I built also hasnt blown up....but then it hasnt run very much either....yet!!! :D
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Postby clee » Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:32 pm

It's not going on the engine that's in the car so I have the luxury of pissing about a bit .......................
I have another Z7U that I intend to rebuild a bit hotter :twisted:
This all depends on whether my rebuilt lump holds together for more than 500 miles :lol: I figure if it hasn't 'BLOWN UP' by then I've done a good enough job and can tackle another with confidence .
I'm very gratefull for any advice as I know F###all about this management stuff .
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Tue Jun 05, 2007 11:22 pm

The best bit of advice I can give is - learn it yourself. Unless you're playing with something like a Skyline where the tuners have years of experience with particular ECUs and countless hours spent developing a properly tweaked map for a certain setup, you'll be spending a lot of time making fine adjustments yourself while you drive, and you'll know what to do if things go a bit wrong.

It might all look complicated, but take it one wire at a time when hooking up - measure twice and cut once! I can help with general principles and with setting up the Adaptronic (certainly there are some ambiguities in the starting parameters in particular). I'd recommend it purely because I know it,.and I originally went for it because it would read a stock 66 tooth flywheel - and as you know, I prefer a modified pattern. A lot of my decisions were made because of ease of use in the DeLorean which of course don't apply to you.
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Postby clee » Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:10 pm

There aren't that many wires when you break it down .Don't think I'll bother making a trigger wheel myself ....................
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/
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Postby David Gentleman » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:26 am

clee wrote:Wot's a Turbo flywheel worth these days then :?: :?:


About £50-£100 s/h
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Postby David Gentleman » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:31 am

Still don't understand the resoning behind all this. You have the Adaptronic, which wont have to use any extra sensors, plugs straight in, no need for trigger wheels, I have a GTA tuned base map all ready which will run and drive out of the box, and an ecu that has the abilty to self map, and hence slash the costs and time of any mapping fees later on if required....

Even if you got a different ecu for FREE, it would cost you most than that in the long run, with sensors, making a loom, flywheel maching, new ignition system maybe, mapping on the rollers from scratch etc, let alone getting the thing driving to the rollers in the first place...
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Postby clee » Thu Jun 07, 2007 11:46 am

The reasoning is research .Everybody that sells a particular system will say its best .I may well go with an Adaptronic but that will still need new sensors and a loom making won't it ?
Who's going to set it up for me on the rollers ??If I go to Noble for instance and they're a OMEX agent and say it will work on my car and it will be this much and they expect at least these results then if it aint ..........................
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