Stupid-STUPID-STUPID !!!

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Stupid-STUPID-STUPID !!!

Postby clee » Sat Nov 13, 2004 10:55 am

I have just been out to check the levels ,etc and also to see why it seems to be running a bit hesitant only to find that last time I topped up the oil
I didn't replace the cap :oops: :oops: .It still had the small funnel I used sat in the hole.This was more than 4 weeks ago :oops: :oops: ,now I've got oil smoke/droplets from the tail pipes.What have I done ? or more to the point what have I effed up? :( :( :( :( I haven't lost much oil but the breather system obviously has been non-existent .
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Postby clee » Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:20 am

Also, have just had to tighten the fuel lines to the injectors as they have been leaking.Does the breather system affect this in any way ?Have surfed up some tech pages & they talk about pressure build up caused by a clogged breather forcing oil into the fuel system :?
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Postby Juzzblack » Sat Nov 13, 2004 4:12 pm

Can't really help you with a solution, but I'm forever chasing leaking fuel lines on mine. I've fitted new fuel pipes and clips but still get the occasional leak.

My engine is the earlier type with a single fuel pressure regulator. Is yours? I've noticed on later GTAs and A610s the fuel supply is modified with what looks like two fuel pressure regulators mounted side by side, instead of a single one. But only one is a pressure regulator, the other is a pump damper.

If you have the earlier set up like me, then maybe Renault realised this was a fault and fitted the revised set up to later ones with the pump damper?
GTA V6 Turbo - BTW check your earths!

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Postby David Gentleman » Sat Nov 13, 2004 7:29 pm

Thats right. It is actually a normal regulator (though Renault call is a pulse regulator on the GTA). Basically the pressure feed from the intake system is shared between the two regulators, instead of it all going into one regulator. It slows the initial jump in fuel pressure when on boost to aleviate leaking hoses etc....they also fitted bolted unions too.
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Postby Juzzblack » Sat Nov 13, 2004 10:57 pm

Is it possible to upgrade to this later set-up?
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Postby David Gentleman » Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:52 pm

Yes, but you have to change the fuel rails as well to the bolted version. You can get these off a breakers on a 1990+ Renault 25
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Postby clee » Sun Nov 14, 2004 11:51 am

As usual with the beast I think the fuel leak was coincedental.Looks like a turbo problem as it is smooth up to boost then goes all spluttery.Dosn't
smoke all the time just a big puff when reving hard.Also had a look at the nasty air ducting from the turbo and this is shot ,has anyone found an alternative for this :?: it's totally chuffed and looks like sh1te anyway.
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Postby stephendell » Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:31 pm

DemonTweeks have ducting to suit. See their latest brochure or website. Cheapest is orange/brown single wall.
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Postby clee » Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:48 pm

[url]http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalogue/product_detail.asp?PCODE=SAMSFD-031&GRP=RP098&PGRP=R004&CLS=ROAD&code=SAMSFD&from=search[/url[url][/url]
Should look a lot better .
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Postby Alpineandy » Sun Nov 14, 2004 6:08 pm

stephendell wrote:DemonTweeks have ducting to suit. See their latest brochure or website. Cheapest is orange/brown single wall.


Or Try:
http://www.hosedirectltd.co.uk/
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Postby Juzzblack » Sun Nov 14, 2004 9:50 pm

Concerning fears you might have about your turbo, this might be of help: http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/tips.htm
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Postby clee » Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:29 am

Juzzblack wrote:Concerning fears you might have about your turbo, this might be of help: http://www.turbotechnics.com/turbo/tips.htm


Thanks Jb.Might be on the right lines.
Frequent basic checks around the area of the turbo can prevent problems developing at a later date. Check for oil leaks and split air hoses, and rectify problems when they are noticed. Although, at an early stage, some problems may appear minor, they can lead to more serious problems later. For instance, if unfiltered air is allowed to enter the turbocharger through a split hose, this can cause rapid wear to the turbocharger's compressor wheel. Also, keep an eye on oil lines and the engine's crankcase breather system for cracked or split hoses. The way in which fumes are evacuated from a turbocharged engine's crankcase is critical to the turbo’s long term reliability. If this ventilation system were to become restricted or blocked, it could lead to the turbocharger smoking, especially whilst the engine is idling. If in doubt, replace breather hoses and breather valves before condemning the turbocharger.
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Postby simontaylor » Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:35 am

I replaced the ghastly cooling ducting on mine with some single wall orange which has a coiled wire inside.

http://www.renaultalpine.co.uk/Simon's% ... e%20sf.JPG

Set me back £40 for just a metre (min qty) if anyone wants my left over 60cm, I'll post it to you for £20, or deliver locally from Aldershot, Hants.
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Postby turbodog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 6:55 pm

I have found that the best way to replace the floppy turbo hose is to use 3" stainless steel flue liner. This can be obtained from any builders merchant or plumbers merchant and should cost no more than £4 for 2 feet in length. See pics below:

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Regards

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Postby peterg » Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:10 am

Thats nice....kinda matches doesnt it???
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