peterg wrote:clee wrote:So I needn't have bothered to ident the injectors
Ditto
...Nope...
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Thu Apr 15, 2004 8:10 am
Colchester, Essex
clee wrote:Actually that's good news as my injector wiring is not good ,brittle and exposed wire in some places Means I can hack it all off and reblob it What type/rating and where would I get new injector wiring from
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Fri May 28, 2004 11:58 am
Derbyshire
David Gentleman wrote:clee wrote:Actually that's good news as my injector wiring is not good ,brittle and exposed wire in some places Means I can hack it all off and reblob it What type/rating and where would I get new injector wiring from
Its nothing exotic, 10amp automotive wiring will do. Do do it properly you will need new injector plugs..
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Sat Apr 24, 2004 12:23 am
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Thats your problem then - you want the cams turning once for every two rotations of the crank otherwise your valves will be twatting up and down like nobody's businesspeterg wrote:the cams turn twice for each once of the crank
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Thu Apr 15, 2004 8:10 am
Colchester, Essex
spryboy1974 wrote:First name is Neil,(Spryboy is just my nickname).
When i did my cam timing i just used the marks on the sprockets and crank,i didn't use anything else.
Firstly i did bank B,(left bank when veiwed from pulley end),the timing mark on the sprocket was at roughly 11 o'clock as was the crank mark.
After lining the marks up i turned the engine over once so that the sprocket mark was at roughly 5 o'clock as was the crank mark.This made it a lot easier to check the alignment was right with less distance between the two points.
I then repeated this on bank A but with the srocket 180 degrees out from the other cam,ie starting at 7 o'clock on the cam and 1 o'clock ish on the crank.
That's it. So when you recheck it the crank mark needs to be roughly at 11 o'clock and bank B cam will be like wise,then you need to rotate the crank to roughly 1 o'clock and the cam on bank A will be at roughly 7 o'clock.
OK?
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