Engine re-build...the joy!

Yes, you shouldnt really have problem, the torque setting for them is quite low..

Thats all very well but I do have a problem....2 bent 6mm allen keys and 3 of the hex head bolts looking less than hex headed!! They will meet the angle grinder tomorrow Will weld a nut on the rest of the bolt when the flywheel is off.

and what happens if the nut you weld on keeps sheering off?
Sounds like a serious issue you have?
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/k.strauss/Alpine/WEB%20PICS/flywheel.JPG
as for the allen keys, are they for the clutch cover plate, might it be a litte wiser to try one of those sockets that have an allen key in the end of it.

I'm told that impact drivers, which you whack with a club hammer, are good because when you whack 'em they are also being forced onto the nut.

I'm sure I've seen this sort of thing with sockets too.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Teng-tools-123-tray-set-Impact-driver-set-20-piece-NEW_W0QQitemZ250037280180QQihZ015QQcategoryZ30917QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and what happens if the nut you weld on keeps sheering off?
Sounds like a serious issue you have?
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/k.strauss/Alpine/WEB%20PICS/flywheel.JPG
as for the allen keys, are they for the clutch cover plate, might it be a litte wiser to try one of those sockets that have an allen key in the end of it.

I'm told that impact drivers, which you whack with a club hammer, are good because when you whack 'em they are also being forced onto the nut.

I'm sure I've seen this sort of thing with sockets too.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Teng-tools-123-tray-set-Impact-driver-set-20-piece-NEW_W0QQitemZ250037280180QQihZ015QQcategoryZ30917QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The nuts wont sheer off when there is no pressure from the clutch plate...I'm not concerned...I have plenty of options simon...2 engines...double the chance!!!

notice how quiet i am being!!

Yes ,usually you're so helpful

[phildini]

Surely the liners will only seat in one place at one height? The have a flat bottom and are seating onto a flat surface (once cleaned off).....they are also 'top hat' type so they slot in.

Going back to the above and I know I am a bit late for this, but.....I have just finished rebuilding my ATMO engine and I had the same problem with the seals, first of all because renault charge a fortune for the bloody things, second I was raccomended to just buy the thicker ones, well they bloody worked a treat! they all fitted perfect is that a question of luck???

notice how quiet i am being!!

Thank god for small mercies. Presumably in your perfect mechanic way you would use some sort of miracle to extract the bolts???? Well you'll be pleased to know it was Paul my neighbour who runs his own engineering business (and lent me the engine lift) who had the final shot at the bolts, then said to use a grinder....he offered to weld the nuts to the ends if there were problems. Once the pressure is off it wont be difficult.
Hopefully you will sleep easier at night now!

Phildini.....thanks for that! I intend to give the re-build a whirl once my new engine is in and running. Its nice to know that someone has had some success.

[phildini]

Another word of raccomendation, dont skimp out, I did not purchase new timing chains and tensioner for mine thinking they should be ok but to my suprise when i put it back together they were making a horrible noise, maybe because everything was nice and clean and all the dirty think oil was removed. So I had to take the timing chain cover back off which was not fun and games with the engine in situ.

Luckly for my mate whos helping me out a lot ( who told me to replace the chains and I said no) he is a ex Peugeot engineer and he is quite familiar with the PRV's, but even he found this liner seal thingy a pain in the asp because when he used to work for peugeot he was given all different sizes and the customers were paying for it.

Good Luck!!!! may the force be with you

first of all because renault charge a fortune for the bloody things,

Next time, get them from Volvo...... Volvo B28E as found in a 1982 760 or 260, 262, 264. Also B280E in the 760 from 82 till 92 or something. All got same liners.

Bolts off no problem! Getting the timing chain off in my isnt such a bad job because I have so much less round the engine. It takes about an hour to strip down to the chains, but I will look into buying new ones...stitch in time and all that!

I had the tensioners replaced when my head went ,the chains themselves were fine .

Mine all look fine at the minute, but will bear it in mind....I have 2 of everything which is always useful!

[quote="simontaylor"] Perhaps some penitrating oil or heat "might" help. {/quote]

I've heard that as an alternative to heating stuff up - you can use a tin of the freezing spray that plumbers use to freeze pipes. Presume you apply it to the bolt and the cooling action shrinks it just enough to break the corrosion thats holding it in place. Has anyone tried this?

No....its easier and cheaper to use heat! I cant see that cooling it would work anything like as well!

The cams have gone off to Kent for a mild re-profile.....the brief being a little extra lift with the smallest possible increase in duration. The problem is its hard to re-do them, gain lift and not increase the duration. Hopefully they wont go mad and send me back a 290 duration cam that will wreck the bottom end power and leave it a laggy nightmare!!
The guy I spoke to seemed to understand what he was talking about as well as the peculiarities of turbo cams.

I see your point but.....

...on a car that is largely made of plastic, is the application of heat not a risky thing to do in certain circumstances (also where rubber or plastic bushes are involved). Freezing your nuts off is what we Scots are used to anyhow so I'll give it a try and report back