Engine re-build...the joy!

[stephendell]

If the inside of the oil pump housing is not perfectly smooth to the touch, the block is scrap.

Definately check this. Any scoring at all and you need a new block.

If the inside of the oil pump housing is not perfectly smooth to the touch, the block is scrap.

Definately check this. Any scoring at all and you need a new block.

i know a man who can sell him one

If the inside of the oil pump housing is not perfectly smooth to the touch, the block is scrap.

Definately check this. Any scoring at all and you need a new block.

Oh, that could be fixed. Just requires a full strip down back to the block, thats all...

Oh, that could be fixed. Just requires a full strip down back to the block, thats all...

Yes it could probably be fixed, but at a horrendous cost - the tolerance inside the oil pump is very tight. The only way to "fix" this is to run a dry sump and remote pump, or invest in some very clever machinework.

(a bit of my background for you - I've rebuilt several PRVs and on one of them I've had to replace the block due to a scored up oil pump. This caused low oil pressure and this manifests itself as massive rocker wear (sounds tappety, then knockety). I've got a beautiful 24v block with terrible scoring inside the pump housing and the teeth of the pump were flattened on the end. I've also scratch-built hydraulic robots which had a motor driven gear pump at their heart and ran to pressures in excess of 3000psi. I do not think it is necessary to run an in-line filter at the turbo unless you're worried about the pipework having been contaminated in a rebuild. The feed is not going to pick up contamination from elsewhere in the engine any more than a hosepipe with a leak gets air inside it when the tap's turned on. Poor analogy, but all I could think of!)

BTW I -do- have two Z7U's but didn't acquire them for the purpose of resale, but if anyone gets stuck, give me a hoy.

I do not think it is necessary to run an in-line filter at the turbo unless you're worried about the pipework having been contaminated in a rebuild.

Which is what Peter is doing, what this thread is about, so hence why I mentioned it....

I do not think it is necessary to run an in-line filter at the turbo unless you're worried about the pipework having been contaminated in a rebuild.

Which is what Peter is doing, what this thread is about, so hence why I mentioned it....

is it i would never have known so it won't turn into a forum battle then

Well, as predicted it wasnt done when I got back But I am now on the home straight...just re-fitting the turbo and electrics.....then fingers crossed for tomorrow!

Its back together and it starts....although only after a tow...and only on 4 cylinders God knows what it is.....probably something serious!!!!

Surely not, all the serious things have been fixed.
Maybe you've got 2 leads swapped the wrong way round.

[Alpineandy]

Check you haven't got any parts left over..... Like a piston and a couple of exhaust valves

or a screw loose?

[Alpineandy]

or a screw loose?

Is there any doubt

Ne news is good news i hope

Been away, so wont be investigating til tomorrow. I have a feeling it could be badly set tappets (Mike commented that the engine sounded mechanically too quiet and mentioned tappet settings).....they would make the engine difficult to turn over and if some were way out they would cause the running on 4. Before I check the tappets I will check the leads as I put them back on in half light, but I was careful and had a plan to work to. The good news is there didnt appear to be any leaks!

Its still not done!!!!! It was only running on 3......because one of the cams wasnt correctly timed.....so its been back to bits and will be built again tomorrow. God I hope it works!!!! Ive just had the latest speed championship bulletin and I can still win my class....but I need the Alp working for the final event on Sunday...I need to either win or come second and beat my main rival. If its up and running I have a chance.