Renix Coil pack and heat

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Renix Coil pack and heat

Postby David Gentleman » Sat Apr 26, 2008 9:06 am

Had one of my cars up and running last night for the first time traced to a faulty coilpack. Substituted another for testing, but not installed in the normal position, just sitting just in front of the OEM one inbetween the intake pipe and the engine cover suction duct. After about 40 mins driving, the car started to missfire and then cut out completely, and then failed to start. Soo, whipped it off, fitted another coil pack, whoom, off it goes again. About the same time later, did it again....fitted the first coil pack back which had now cooled down, and off we go again..

Both coils were very hot, almost too hot to touch, but in truth were sitting in a position which is more over the manifold than the shelf position, but only by 4 inches. Shows that in hot weather, and high engine bay temps, that this can be a problem, and how hot that engine bay gets.

Not just the problem of it cutting out all together, but the fact I was getting missfires slightly before this point, and then got gradually worse.

Also, hence why the Europa cup cars ran the coil pack inboard next to the ECU.
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Postby simonsays74 » Sat Apr 26, 2008 5:36 pm

good work young man!

i know where i am going to fit the coil pack for the new hillclimb car now!
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Postby pgoldsmith » Sat Apr 26, 2008 5:54 pm

Don't you just love the French designers :roll:
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Postby David Gentleman » Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:41 pm

Makes you realised Europa cups must have been good, not due to the power increase, but just the fact that the perpex vented hatch, side vents, heatwrap, big rad etc must have helped so much. If they had ran a chargecooler back then (they had a slightly better intercooler but still in the bad position) they would have been awesome.

I took the rubber seal off from around the rear glass hatch area today ( I can't see how this actually helps in any way as any water would still go in the gutters and not into the engine area) and you can feel alot of heat now coming through the edge of the glass. Every little helps.
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Postby clee » Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:25 am

David Gentleman wrote:but just the fact that the perpex vented hatch, side vents, heatwrap, big rad etc must have helped so much.



:D :D
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Postby clee » Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:53 am

I'd put the seal back though Dave .I reckon you'll have issues with the glass vibrating .As in it'll go bang :!:
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Postby mitchella » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:07 am

Why not go half way then? Cut some bits of seal to go round the corners and maybe a few inches in the middle of each side. That should give the glass something to sandwich against and stop it vibrating but leave decent gaps for the air to get out as well.
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Postby clee » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:13 am

All you need is some of those clever little hinge pivots :D And a self adjusting polycarb screen 8)
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:48 pm

Dave, I mean this in the nicest possible way - it's great to see you contribute something based on experience of a problem. Thanks for sharing.
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Postby David Gentleman » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:47 pm

mitchella wrote:Why not go half way then? Cut some bits of seal to go round the corners and maybe a few inches in the middle of each side. That should give the glass something to sandwich against and stop it vibrating but leave decent gaps for the air to get out as well.


I used foam self adhesive tape over lapped on the bottom edge.
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Postby David Gentleman » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:49 pm

Stunned Monkey wrote:Dave, I mean this in the nicest possible way - it's great to see you contribute something based on experience of a problem. Thanks for sharing.


Thanks, though there is about 2 years of stuff on this forum before you joined up..just do a thread/post search. :wink:
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:51 pm

I know, I've read a lot of it.
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Postby David Gentleman » Mon Apr 28, 2008 5:59 pm

You could run the whole glass up an inch, by extending the bottom catches (as per Lee) and the top ones too. This causes ram air effect into the top of the glass (have to be careful and check with this at speed - might only want a little lift at the top, say 10mm). You might think rain could be a problem, but even with rain all over the roof, it will still run down into the gutters and not into the engine bay (a bit will get it but nothing to cause any problems) You would then need to drill two small holes in the bottom edge of the gutter near the rear spoiler and fit two drain tubes (like in the front bonnet area) for the water to drain out of, but then you have alot of venting around the bay, and cool air being forced in the top, and taking the hot air out of the bottom.
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Postby BIG_MVS » Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:01 pm

Stunned Monkey wrote:Dave, I mean this in the nicest possible way - it's great to see you contribute something based on experience of a problem. Thanks for sharing.


:shock:

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