Breaking with tradition

Due to having to be able to move the car and the safety issue I'm taking it out the top not from behind ( ooooeeeeerrrrrrmissus ) Once the top end is stripped ,turbo etc it looks a far easier option in my situation .Top tip for working on the top end ( relative to your height ) get the rear up in the air a bit My back is fine this time round, was killing me after the first time I stripped the turbo off

I took mine out of the top this time (fancied a change ) and it came out easily enough.......although it is tight lengthwise....clearing the rear of the vehicle. Hopefully mine will be going back in in the next couple of weeks so I will let you know how I get on.

I've got all I can off the back end of the engine , that may help
I can see a trip to the local metal finishers in the future Aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

The crank pulley????

The crank pulley????

It's soaking as are all me nuts and it's soaking here so........... Sunday , supposedly sunny

Will the gearbox/subframe slide out through 600mm @ rear ?I can jack and axle stand it off the ramps then remove if I need to .
I reckon it just might I don't fancy pivoting it much more where it is .

I'd have my money on it coming out. The highest bits left will probably be the subframe where it bolts onto the turrets. Reckon I had the back skirt up to just over 80cm to get the whole shebang out - minus turbo but with plenums still in place.

It need not come out but sods law the gearbox will play up soon after it all goes back together I seem to be missing a few bits No clutch protection plate as listed in the manual Must be a race mod lightening and added cooling to the flywheel

and risk of road debris getting into the bell housing and matbe onto the clutch friction plate???

Will the gearbox/subframe slide out through 600mm @ rear ?I can jack and axle stand it off the ramps then remove if I need to .
I reckon it just might I don't fancy pivoting it much more where it is .

If you can spare the pennies, Machinemart do high lift trolley jacks (520mm total) and theyre about £40 each. On the standard jacking points it raises the back up fine to get the engine and box and subrame out. You can see on this pic, the jacks aren't even half way up..

Will the gearbox/subframe slide out through 600mm @ rear ?I can jack and axle stand it off the ramps then remove if I need to .
I reckon it just might I don't fancy pivoting it much more where it is .

if clearance is tight when you try to withdraw the subframe and box, you could dig out some of your gravel.

Will the gearbox/subframe slide out through 600mm @ rear ?I can jack and axle stand it off the ramps then remove if I need to .
I reckon it just might I don't fancy pivoting it much more where it is .

if clearance is tight when you try to withdraw the subframe and box, you could dig out some of your gravel.

I'll make meself a pit

lee,

my rear bumper was exactly 100cm off the ground when I withdrew my engine on a trolley and the clearance was 2 cm at the top. This was with the turbo and plenums still on.

i even had the engine sitting on 2 off 4"x2" joist off cuts on each side.

By crudly making measurements of this picture, I reckon the clearance for just the box and sub frame is 55 cm, even with 4 inches of wood under it.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/k.strauss/Alpine/WEB%20PICS/P5040039.JPG

If you remove the bumper and dont use the wood chocks, it will be a lot less.

maybe that should be 65 cm, I forgot about the height of the bell housing.

No where near it and the rear glass shatters It's all over the top of the exposed heads