Handbrake Probs

Getting the pistons to screw into the calipers is almost impossible, beginnning to wonder if the pads are too thick, though they did go back in eventually.

Why?..... I did mine recently, and was surprised just how many turns it took to retract them fully....just keep going until they wont go in any further.
I would have thought that with the pistons retracted, and the pads go in without using a hammer , ie:- by hand, even tightish....they would bed in quite quickly without creating enough heat to seize them up.
Have you got the original discs on, and what new pads are you using?
I also would find out what is missing on the brake pedal and fit it, the pedal not coming back fully does worry me.....I have just been down to the garage to check my brake pedal, and there is no free play at all. Suggest you check this out asap.

The pistons should go back fairly easily Rupert once they start turning .Did you pop the pistons out when you stripped them down ? Is the seal OK ?
Sounds to me like they are fecked in the bores ?

Tried it with servo and handbrake disconnected and it seemed better so decided to set off for the MOT place. Started to seize after about two miles...

Waited for it all to cool down and drove it home.

Put it in the garage and shut the door - I'm sick of it.

Seems too much of a coincidence to be both calipers faulty. I didn't take the pistons out by the way, but they are both new in any case.

Richard thinks it might be to do with the rear brake valve bias thing on the brake lines, not letting fluid return.

(though handbrake cables were too short)

Richard thinks it might be to do with the rear brake valve bias thing on the brake lines, not letting fluid return.

Rupert.....that is a possibility, but what happened with the test I suggested, with the car out of gear and running on axel stands? What you should look for is any difference in ability to turn wheels by hand, with engine not running and running. If you find there is no difference, then to test Richards theory, still with the engine running, apply the foot brake then release, then check if there is binding of the wheels.
I know that we have been concentrating on the back brakes because of the possible hand brake prob, but is it possible that the front brakes are comming on as well? If it were a master cylinder or servo prob, both front and back brakes will be affected.
You saying that the brake pedal does not return fully still worries me. I have taken some pics of mine to show where the pedal should lie, and I also notice there is no return spring fitted to the pedal. The only thing that returns the pedal to rest, is the internal springs in both the master cylinder and servo.
If the pedal is not returning to the same position as mine, then it is likely that the brake is being applied via the servo, also note that there is no play in my pedal when it is at rest. If as you say, it does not return by its self, then there is something wrong.
The results of the test I suggested will help eliminate the problem.




Dont give Up

John

Did I read somewhere that you should only turn the pistons until they are just fully retracted. i.e. if you continue to turn them after they are fully returned, then they cause a problem in their operation - or was I dreaming this

Hi Paul.......Book says:-

"REFITTING

Retract the piston by using a square
section screwdriver to turn it until
it continues to turn but goes in no
further".

So I dont think you can damage them by turning them past fully retracted, but it does take a heck of a time as you can only turn a quarter of a turn at a time. There is a special tool for retracting this type of piston which my son lent me, but surprise surprise, due to the Alps caliper design, it wont fit

John