New Project - GTA Turbo

To help anyone who's not sure of the position of the relays on a right hand drive turbo, I've done a copy from my electrical manual. Hope this helps.

Andrew

I'll get it out tomorrow and change it Monday, my local Auto Electrician should have one, i'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers!

Martin, would you be kind enough to post up those part #'s for the anti roll bar bushs [lower wishbone ] ???

Also.... regarding your fuel guage....my tank was filled to the brim yesterday and i looked at the dial and the top two figures changed however the little icon of the car pointing to a bowser stayed in the same place as before [3 dots from the bowser ] is this the same problem you had??? [and was rectified by changing that black relay.? ]


Footnote Funny: My service light and low front pads warning light had been on for a few days [they are new pads ]
Yesterday i filled the tank with petrol and drove off....lo and behold the warning lights had disappeared !!! I just love French electrics !!

[BIG_MVS]

Can't remember the part numer sorry, can get it for you. However between myself and turbodog we had the last 3 available (apparently). You will have to go to simon auto in Germany who have a decent stock of them. Good luck with the fitting BTW

Thats handy to know then Martin....i'll go to Simon.

Any word on my fuel guage as i wrote above.....is it the same problem as you had??

[BIG_MVS]

No it's not the same problem John. Mine was showing 18.7 gallons all the time.

Have you tried resetting the trip computer? I think you disconnect the battery, wait 30secs or so, reconnect, then press and hold the trip reset button for 5-10 secs. Anyone else confirm this?

Have you tried resetting the trip computer? I think you disconnect the battery, wait 30secs or so, reconnect, then press and hold the trip reset button for 5-10 secs. Anyone else confirm this?

My information is not quite the same as yours. Mine says disconnect the battery, press the reset button for 10secs ( I would go for 15secs) then reconnect the battery, and press reset button again. By doing it this way it allows charged components to discharge without power being applied to the circuit board. If fault persists, check all connectors from tank unit to instrument panel. Undo each plug/socket, spray pins with wd40, shake excess off then connect and disconnect connectot a few times to scratch off any surface corrosion on the pins. The residual wd40 coats the pins with a smear of oil which hopefully protects them. The main problem with all these instrument circuits is that the current passing through all the plugs and sockets is so low that pins get this surface corrosion on them, which causes poor contact, and hence failure. You might also come across gold plated pins, these are for particulally low currents, to protect them against poor contact. Hope this helps.

John

[BIG_MVS]

Have you tried resetting the trip computer? I think you disconnect the battery, wait 30secs or so, reconnect, then press and hold the trip reset button for 5-10 secs. Anyone else confirm this?

My information is not quite the same as yours. Mine says disconnect the battery, press the reset button for 10secs ( I would go for 15secs) then reconnect the battery, and press reset button again. By doing it this way it allows charged components to discharge without power being applied to the circuit board. If fault persists, check all connectors from tank unit to instrument panel. Undo each plug/socket, spray pins with wd40, shake excess off then connect and disconnect connectot a few times to scratch off any surface corrosion on the pins. The residual wd40 coats the pins with a smear of oil which hopefully protects them. The main problem with all these instrument circuits is that the current passing through all the plugs and sockets is so low that pins get this surface corrosion on them, which causes poor contact, and hence failure. You might also come across gold plated pins, these are for particulally low currents, to protect them against poor contact. Hope this helps.

John

Wise words John!!! I have just tested this on my car and take no notice of me, I was going from memory and hearsay

My fuel guage now reads at a steady reading Now the speedo is not working, time to check dose earths hey Juzz

Now the speedo is not working, time to check dose earths hey Juzz

Before doing anything else, go through the connectors from speed sensors, to speedo module, as decribed above. The pulses coming from the speed sensor are paticularly minute, and can get lost very quickly at a poor connection.

John

Just as a general piece of advice, get hold of a can of "Servisol 10" switch cleaner and lubricant. Use instead of WD40 to clean electrical contacts. It's available in Maplin and is absolutely magic when it comes to dodgy old French (or British) electrics

get hold of a can of "Servisol 10" switch cleaner and lubricant.

Yes, good idea, one word of warning though, check the label, some proprietary contact cleaners contain solvents which attack plastics, the label should say if they are safe or not. Another good one is "Electrolube Contact Treatment Oil 2AX", which states it is safe on most plastics, should be available at Maplins.

Just a thought, but where exactly do the wires run from the gauge sender to the dash?

Just a thought, but where exactly do the wires run from the gauge sender to the dash?

It the big multiway loom behind the fusebox that goes through the bulkhead, next to the cables for the bonnet release.

Just a thought, but where exactly do the wires run from the gauge sender to the dash?

I have only got circuit for atmo, but I expect it is similar. You will have to remove the boot liner to get to the two pin connector on top of the tank unit. Then there is the Tank Sender Unit which is mounted by the front nearside wheel arch. Then I would go to the Fuel Tank Sender Unit Computer Timer Relay, and Fuel Consumption Cut Off Relay, then to the two connectors on the back of the Instrument Panel, undoing each one in turn, from the tank unit to instrument panel, spray, and reconnect a couple of times, BUT only one at a time, and checking the fuel gauge each time before moving on to the next one. That way you you may find the connector, or relay base that caused the problem. This may not cure the problem, but at least you will know that all the connections are ok, before spending any money buying parts.
One other caution, in the diagram showing position of relays, note that the Fuel Tank Sender Unit Computer Timer Relay is not listed in 1 thru 24. It is interesting to note that on page 73 of the same manual, the diagram for the atmo relay positions is also incorrect. I have had to correct 8 of the 23 relay positions.
Give yourself plenty of time to do this procedure. Good luck.

John

Now the speedo is not working,

A couple of questions for you, does the mpg on the computer panel work, or what does it read? I ask this because if it reads correctly then we know that the wiring from the speed sensor is ok, as is the wiring from the flow meter, therefore the transistor drivers to the speedo motor, which pickup the signals after the computer, are at fault, or motor is us. I have had trouble with a transistor, cost me 7p, no sorry 35p, 5 in the packet, to correct.