Adaptronic ECU Piece of P1ss

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Dave Williams

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Postby Dave Williams » Fri Sep 28, 2007 4:57 pm

Lee - I know nothing about ECUs

but I can help with RS232 serial communication
plan A - you have the Drivesmart USB to serial convertor - just install the drivers to run this on Dawn's laptop (if you promise not to get oily fingerprints on the keys). Take the laptop to the car.
plan B - use the Drivesmart USB to serial convertor on your desktop - bring the ECU into the house (finding appropriate power).
plan C - as plan B - but use a long serial cable to get to the car - but the length you can use depends on the baud - probably fine if 9600. Great for injuring passing children on scooters.
plan D - if you have any modems around you could dial from your home pc to a modem connected to the car (if you can power the remote modem)
I'm getting all nostalgic about rs232 serial communications...time to go home.
Plan A is best. :)
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Postby clee » Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:18 pm

Cheers Davey Boy .
If I damage Dawn's laptop I'm a deadman , no really ,NE KNACKERS LEFT :!: ........................It's got all her Partybag website on it and she's just spent a week rehashing it :shock:
I said I'd put it all on a mem stick AND copy it onto my PC but she's still not too happy 'bout it :lol: :roll: :!:

I can see me sitting there in the car ,extension lead , with my desktop and 21" monitor in the passenger seat :lol: :lol:

Personally I like plan D :arrow: Knight Rider Styley 8)
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Postby simontaylor » Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:06 pm

You Could try Plan-E : make up a 35 way extension from the car so that you can mount the ECU in your front room with the Desktop PC, Oh yes..... working on your car in the warm.

You will just need to send Dawn out now and again to turn the ignition key. After a few tweeks, perhaps she will alow you to risk your life with her toy!
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:25 am

I can't connect the PC .Laptop with a USB serial .It asks for a driver when I plug it in ???
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:17 am

:D :D :D :D :D :D

Took longer for me to work out I hadn't loaded the cable driver to Dawn's laptop than it did to upload the map and it starts 2nd time .
Fookin-POP as Simon says ........................... not not 74 :!:


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It runs OK on the std ECU as well , unplug and swap in 60 secs , I'll put the old ECU in the glovebox...... JIC :lol: :lol:
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:46 pm

I don't reckon PG's map is quite right for me :lol: I have definItely got det at 5K so I've cruised back home very cautiously :roll: I need to get it on RR .
My loom had a broken wire at the plug that was for the knock sensor so I'm not running any .
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:06 pm

If you're looking at the map Simon's passed onto me, then you don't have any knock sensor feedback (ignition control under Corrections tab is set to open loop). Also you're fuel control under same tab is set to rapid learning. I wouldn't trust that if you haven't got a lambda sensor plugged in. Reload original map into the ECU and change it to open loop.

Looking at the ignition map, the ignition timing actually increases from 17 to 18 degrees advance between 140 and 200kPa. Suggest you twiddle those upper figures down a tad if you're getting det.

BTW the reason I personally think it's really important to have a battery powered laptop and be able to make mods as you drive is that all important "live gauges" window, which is really VITAL to keep an eye on, IMO. As the car is running. (press F2) The number of times I've seen intermittent sensors, etc and of course you can hit space bar at any time to jump to the part of the map where things aren't running right and make adjustments.
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:11 pm

Thanks Martin ,I don't know enough about it to make any changes at all yet :lol: :lol: I've got a Bosch WB in the pipe but not got round to plugging it in to 'owt .
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:23 pm

I've put a second seat in it ,if anyone wants to ride shotgun with their laptop :wink: If they're up this way ,picking up something like .................................
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:26 pm

All you need to know is where the "File --> Save As" command is :D Just keep saving what you've done, with sensible descriptive names, and no matter what you do, you're only a few seconds away from going back to "the one before that worked"

You can't damage the engine by retarding the ignition, right? :) I have invested in one of these. Haven't used it yet but his other feedback suggests it's probably quite effective

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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:27 pm

Got a mad week this week and off on hols next for a week... sorry :(
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Postby clee » Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:30 pm

Bloody Professionals ,never around when you need them :roll: .......I've shit-em :wink: :lol:
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Postby clee » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:46 pm

I've given up on that PG map ,it's not working well at all for me ,too aggressive and mega det . I've had a word with Simon and tweaked that last ign map by a 10% reduction across the range ???
Plugged the old ECU in Pikey Piggyback styley 8)

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Postby Stunned Monkey » Tue Oct 02, 2007 4:54 pm

You don't need to go across the range, just worry about the map above 100kPa (which is the part under boost).

I'm doing another engine very soon and as it's a paying customer this time, I'm actually on it full time (unlike the TT DeLorean which is whenever my mate feels like it) so I'll sort out my wideband lambda and knock detect thingummy and will probably be more use to you :) Of course I'm modifying the flywheel so the ignition figures actually mean something.:P
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Postby clee » Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:00 pm

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I'll tweak just that bit by 10% then :?:
Simon's explained what most of it means ,so I have a better idea how to eff it up completely now :lol: :lol:
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