Radio Cassette Problems

[BIG_MVS]

Coolant - You are correct with the 2 bleed screws (rad and engine housing). The rad tends to get clogged up though due to the outlets being halfway up the rad. Also the bleed pipe from the rad gets clogged up as well, do you get coolant coming from this pipe when you bleed?

White smoke - not good.....or is it still very cold still in brum this time of year?

Hi Martin,

I cant br too sure, as it was a long time ago when I changed the coolant in mine, but there should be one, maybe two (one on each side) drain plugs on the side of the block. Someone with more recent knowledge on this might like to confirm......or deny
Most engins I have come across have them.

John

PS, I knew I had seen it somewhere

Coolant - The rad tends to get clogged up though due to the outlets being halfway up the rad. Also the bleed pipe from the rad gets clogged up as well,

I would be inclined to try flushing the system out by,.... having removed the engin drain plugs....and leaving the hose off the rad, putting some rag around a hose pipe, holding it, as sealed as possible, in the filler of the reservoir, and get someone to turn the tap on. Having got it as clean as possible, I would then remove the hose from the other side of the rad, put the hose in one end and flush it through. A word of warning.... PUT A PLASTIC BAG OVER THE ALTENATOR, as the water from the block drain could go all over it.......not a good idea Clearly, with the thermostat closed, the flushing will not get to some parts of the head but most sludge will settle at the lowest points of the system. Heads usually stay relatively clear in my experence.

What he said .... two drain plugs on the block .

Hi chaps !!

Firstlty the white smoke, for the last week been reversing out garage and back in, took car around block for a few miles and the smoking stopped, on the basis aswell that this tank full has got some fuel system cleaning addititive.

Me tinks it not likes sitting around.

Being in Birmingham means Im closer to the equator meaning slightly warmer !!

Going to flush the system out and check electrics to fans tomorrow, oh by the way first pickie taken of her posted up dont laugh too much. Only got to polish up the bonnett and front wing.

Regards
Martin

Okay complete brain failure finger placed vertically upwards and it hurt !!!

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Shorted out top sensor and fan for cooling came on, shorted out bottom sensor nowt.

Martin,

If that is what is happening, then according to the manual this is OK, but when you say "bottom sensor nowt", just check to see if the "over heating Alarm light" on the dash is illuminated. BTW both fans should operate together. The only thing that worries me at this stage, is if the the two connector plugs for the thermo switches have been reversed. What I would do is to see if the temp is marked on the switches themselves.....one should be 90` the other 110`. With the plugs off, short the pins of each plug, a piece of wire will do this, and which ever shorted plug brings on the fans, connect to the switch marked 90`, the other one should bring on the Alarm Light, that should be connected to the switch marked 110`
Hope this makes sense to you

John

Hi all

Had a little play around with the sensors and got the following:

Firstly shorting out bottom sensor the fan failure light does come on and shorting out the top sensor the fans come on, looking at the manual it shows that 575 is on the top and 574 is on the bottom.

Checking voltages and grounds all look good, cross referencing the cable colours is another thing as there are two brown and two whitish cables, originally two brown to top and others to bottom had a little change around as found the two +12v cables and swapped the others so now got one of each on each sensor strill the same so returned back.

Does anyone have these cable colours and if so were do they go ?

Other method will be to get a similar sensor and test, is there anyway of testing these sensors find it hard to beleive that two have failed.
Regards

Hi Martin,

Firstly shorting out bottom sensor the fan failure light does come on and shorting out the top sensor the fans come on, looking at the manual it shows that 575 is on the top and 574 is on the bottom.

Yes, but are the sensors in the right place, ie: swapped over.......that is why I suggested you look to see if you can see the temp`s marked on the sensors......If you short out 575 that is the 110` sensor, which should bring on the light, as that is the over temp alarm, which you say the manual shows at the top....and should not be bringing on the fans. From what you say...it looks to me that they are infact swapped over. You really need to check the temp`s marked on the sensors..

Does anyone have these cable colours and if so were do they go ?

574....black and black
575....black and brown/yellow........according to the manual.

.....is there anyway of testing these sensors

Hot air gun on the sensor with meter switched to ohms attached to pins

John

PS. Right I`ve just got some further info from the parts manual......The Part Numbers are stamped around the rim of the sensors, and the 90` one`s Pt No. is 60 01 011 893, and the 110` one is 60 01 008 967. Like I said before pull the connectors off the sensor, short the wires together, if the fans start, connect to 60 01 011 893, the other one that brings on the warning light connect to 60 01 008 967.

Hi John

Just got back in from work, going to check this out, tried to get it hot with a portable gas soldering iron and fluke across, probably couldnt get it hot enough.

Any way will let you know later

Regards

Hi John
The sensors that are on my car are in fact Klixon model URP, anyway put them over the oven which of course pleased the wife no end
Both work have swapped them around and all I can do is run the system and see, I have also swapped around to the manual 575 fan fail on top and 574 on bottom, lets see how it goes.

Now onto the coolant going to have another go at it over weekend

Regards

Hi Martin,

Where you able to identify which sensor was the 110`, and the 90` one. Was there no pt No`s on them?

Hi John

Back from a little break, had a look at the sensors as follows:
Top 575 Klixon 1VT4AA258F
Bottom 574 Klixon 1VT 4AD275F
This information is what is aroun the metal barrell of the sensor
The bottom sensor has a metal cover over it I presume to maintain a heat activation.
Hope that you can cast some info on it.

Regards

Martin

Hi Martin.

Back from a little break, had a look at the sensors as follows:
Top 575 Klixon 1VT4AA258F
Bottom 574 Klixon 1VT 4AD275F
This information is what is aroun the metal barrell of the sensor

The reason I gave you the part No`s of 575 & 574, was because I removed the sensor from my Atmo, which according to the parts manual, is the same type (although different Pt No.) to your two. But mine had the correct Pt No. around the metal barrell of the sensor However it appears that the No`s that are around yours bears no resemblance to the Pt No`s......pity ...I though for a moment that the No`s on yours, which are followed by the "F", refered to the Fahrenheit value, but I did the conversation only to find the values were 126`C & 135`C respectively, so thats no help

The question I actually asked was...were you able to identify between the two sensors, ie:- when in the oven...were you able to see which one came on at a lower temperature which would have identified it as being the 574...90` one...as the Pt No`s were of no help?

The bottom sensor has a metal cover over it I presume to maintain a heat activation.

This metal cover you speak of is attached to the bracket which holds the two sensors according to the manual....or are you saying yours is attached to the actual sensor?

From the info that you have given me I am still not sure in my own mind that we have actually correctly identified which sensor is which. Perhaps you could give me a bit more detail

Cheers

John