poor cabin fan

Thanks for the image stephendell. Yes that's the image on the Renault system I was shown and that's the part I ordered. Unfortunately the picture doesn't show the top of the fan unit which is where the differences are. Also, the orientation of the whole fan assembly seems different, presumably because of the retrofitted A/C unit. I guess it's a case of tracking down which part was used by the original A/C fitting company, which I have been told was in Basingstoke. Anyone got any more info? Anyone got an image of their GTA Turbo A/C fan so I can establish whether mine is a complete one-off?

All air condition units fitted to gta's were designed and fitted in this country by a company called Reader Air Conditioning of Woking. Tel no. 01483 726300.
The original fan was replaced with a different type to go with the air con. I have contacted the company and they have these fans in stock. If you get in touch with them I am sure they will fix you up.

Andrew

My internal cabin failed recently - it was making a terrible noise to begin with, then just gave up the ghost. I have installed a new one ( no skin on my knuckles now)! But as before, I only have full speed. Looking at the forum postings for "cabin interior fan" it looks like I need to replace the rheostat. Is this the case or could it be a dodgy switch/relay combination?

[stephendell]

Hi Sean,

If you only have full speed it's usually the rheostat on top of the cowling for the fan in the luggage compartment.

Could be the switch underneath the knob in the cockpit.....mine was.

I must be going blind - what does the rheostat look like. Can I see it in situ without taking anything apart? I'll then tackle the switch - thanks!

Gents, My fan only works on high speed.
After re-reading this thread, I suspect it is the resistor rheostat from the top of the fan blower that is at fault.
Does any one have a spare one available?

BTW, how does one get into the cabin heater control panel, just so as I can double check that the 3 way switch is working ok?

BTW, how does one get into the cabin heater control panel, just so as I can double check that the 3 way switch is working ok?

Hi Simon,

Me again ....if you detach the gear lever boot from its surround and with a finger curled under the panel, you should feel a 2 clips holding the control panel up. These clips are straight below two small oblong slots in the panel surround on the front edge where it meets the panel ( there are 2 more on the back edge also) with two fingers from underneath ease the clips foward and push the panel down, the rear ones will release also. With the panel dropped, it will be easier to turn it if you remove the 4 small torx screws (2 either side) releasing the panel surround, with it removed there is room...not much... to rotate the panel to get to the switch. To put it back locate the rear of the panel into the clips, and again with 2 fingers through the gearlever hole, click it up into position.
I have the heater blower circuit if it is any help to you.

Cheers

John

PS, have you solved the overheating problem yet

John, no actual over heating problems, just making mods to disipate heat as and when required. Like when I'm sprinting, I'm not keen to go off the line when the engine temp is high,over 90. So I have now wired in a relay to short out the rad temp switch which brings the rad fans on, oh yes when the rad was last off, I added a 2nd fan. This override works well, takes about 3 mins to loose a good 10 degrees. Should also be usefull when in traffic in the heat of the day, which does not happen often.
While messing about inside the dash I remembered that the heater blower fan only worked on max, ie position 3. I have now dagnosed the fault as the thermal fuse which is part of the resistor unit in the top of the blower fan itself. I will be looking to replace this fuse, but not sure what sort of solder to use, normal stuff will probably melt easisy while unit is in action.
As for the rear engine fans. shorting the resistor will work, But I would rather "simulate" the temp switch going to earth. I will be looking inside the passenger footwell side to the centre console tomorrow to look for the elusive timing relay.
Will keep you posted.

I will be looking to replace this fuse, but not sure what sort of solder to use, normal stuff will probably melt easisy while unit is in action.

You should not have any problem with ordinary solder, the chances of the temp going high enough to melt the solder before blowing the thermal fuse minimal

Yeh, my mate tinternet tells me that solder melts at between 250 and 280 deg C, while my new thermal fuse is supposed to blow at 228 degrees. Marginal but I'm hoping it will be ok. Worst case the heat melts the solder and the fuse detaches and all non top-speed fans speeds will not work.

I have also proved it is this thermal fuse, by jumping it with a fly lead, fans work great on all speeds while under test.

Can you get to the motor to put a few drops of light oil on the bearing bushes, if the bearings are tightening up with use, that may be the reason the fuse blew, as if that is happening the current of the motor rises as the load increases....Worth a thought

That is part of the plan....... and I think it will come out easily if I remove the luggage liner, will let you all know later.
I will also measure the current on full blow, before and after a little fettleing and some lubrication, just to see that there is improvement. I hope I have not jinxed it now???

OK, this was a bit hard because I have a digital meter and not a AVO style needle meter.

Well to start with the fan seemed to draw 7 Amps on start up and then settle down to about 0.3 after a few seconds. And when I spun the fan turbine in my hand, it just about stoped straight away.

So I took it apart, emptied out a bit of crud, gave it a wipe over and oiled the bearing on the end with some 3-in-1 oil. I ran it up on 12V and allowed the oil to work it's way in. When I held the fan bearing end down it seemed like the oil came out and brought some dirt with it because now it was black oil. so after about a minute or 2 of cleaning of the dirty oil and replenishing with fresh clean I gave it another measured test.

Well, I saw it draw 10 Amps on start up and then settle down to between 0.23 and 0.28 Amps. It certainly seemed to vay a bit, especially on start up, sometimes I only saw 3A, sometimes 0.8 or 0.3. I gues this is because I have a digital meter.

Any how the fan turbine now free wheels a bit after a tund by hand, so it is definately freed up a bit. I have left it overnight with the bearing end up and a few drops of oil on it.

Is it worth me cleaning the commutator with brake cleaner and a cotton bud?