A610 cuttin out

Hay i have jst purchased an a610 and when the car warms up it cuts out at random times. The car could be slowin down or under load. I hav tried movin the ecu to keep it cool and it still cuts out. It starting to upset me because i jst want to drive the car. Any ideas? Please!!!!

610 shuffle .....Very common and no real solutions .Many threads about this .
I've had this on a stone cold ECU so I'm not convinced it's heat related .
Various theories but my favorite one is injectors at the moment .Get them all cleaned and tested or get new from Renault .
Also put a new relay in .

[BIG_MVS]

Yes very common (although mine does not do it as of yet, touches wood).

Which car have you bought out of interest, the Pistonheads one? If not could you let Steve Dell know as it could be one he is missing info from....

Check the wiring down the loom from the lambda, heat transfer down the loom from lambda results in bad connections and the wrong info going to ecu from lambda resulting in random cut out.
Bring it up to me in Edinburgh and I'll fix it for you

Hay i have jst purchased an a610 and when the car warms up it cuts out at random times. The car could be slowin down or under load. I hav tried movin the ecu to keep it cool and it still cuts out. It starting to upset me because i jst want to drive the car. Any ideas? Please!!!!

[phildini]

Hi I know this is a bit random but I was having the same problem with my car and it turned out to be a faulty ignition lead the one from the ignition module, dizzy arm burnt out and the throttle positioning sensor.

After sorting out all of the above, it seems all good now, no more cutting out.

To test the TPS just disconnect it and drive around and see if it still does it.Does it start easily from hot?

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU GIVE S. DELL YOUR REG..... WE ARE TRYING TO IDENTIFY ALL CARS

They run closed loop when cold hence no random cut out until warm

Hi.

This what I have done to mine as I have the same symptoms.

Thank you for the helpful info.

I have had the ecu tested by NBA reman and no fault found.

Changed the following

Rotor arm
Distributor cap
Both fuel pump relays
1 fuel injector after testing
Temp sender
Coolant temp sender
Potentiometer
Tdc sensor
Plugs


I have also done the following

Had fuel injectors tested and serviced
Put electro lube in main loom joint
Replaced and added earth straps
Checked fuel pump
Put new heat shield around distributor
Put heat shield between ecu and bulk head

Big thanks to Geoff Arthur for direction and to all that have tried to help me solve this over the last 3 years.

And she still would not start when hot so I have now sent her to city motors main dealer.

I sure do hope they can help cuz Lambo or not I miss my A610

Give me a call and I will tell you what Renault find

07805455626
_________________
i had my 1st A610 back in 1994 a yellow 1 J457JTP now i own a blue 1 since 1997 all welcome to natter

FORGOT MY OLD LOGIN DETAILS SO REGISTERED AGAIN AS LAMBOMAN BUT WILL STICK WITH andythecroc

various fleet of cars

www.southwestweddingcars.co.uk

I sure do hope the main dealer down here can fix it.

I was also lucky to find after several enquiries that this Renault dealer had the old XR25 diagnostic system.

When I have their report I will post the info to help all others.

Telephone calls welcome on 07805 455626.

I WILL NEVER sell this A610 until I am at least 70 so fingers crossed they fix her.

"Cutting out" can describe soooo many things. Cutting out under power and cutting back in again a few seconds later is *definitely* down to the ECU injector driver circuit overheating. My 300 did it, Mike Hudson's 300 did it, so did my 610 (now RottBott's). The drivers generate their own heat so it's not just a case of insulating it against heat from the engine but *letting the box lose heat*. If you put insulation between it and the wall without an air gap, you're just insulating the box even more!

The more common cutting out problem is the simple need for a new ignition coil (NB not the whole unit, just the pack which is about £20 from the local motor factors).

I'm pretty sure a dodgy lambda feedback will not cause cutting out, it'll just cause a rich condition.

They run closed loop when cold hence no random cut out until warm

Wouldn't that be open loop when cold?

Yea I also replaced the coil pack with a new one.

All my parts have come from the main dealer.

Not sure what your on about with the ecu insulation can younplease expand on this

"Cutting out" can describe soooo many things. Cutting out under power and cutting back in again a few seconds later is *definitely* down to the ECU injector driver circuit overheating. My 300 did it, Mike Hudson's 300 did it, so did my 610 (now RottBott's). The drivers generate their own heat so it's not just a case of insulating it against heat from the engine but *letting the box lose heat*. If you put insulation between it and the wall without an air gap, you're just insulating the box even more!

The more common cutting out problem is the simple need for a new ignition coil (NB not the whole unit, just the pack which is about £20 from the local motor factors).

I'm pretty sure a dodgy lambda feedback will not cause cutting out, it'll just cause a rich condition.

I'm pretty sure it does, in fact it did

How do I set the ecu to have a circulation of cold air as I tried it led flat on the seat and it still cut out and would not start for nearly two hours

"Cutting out" can describe soooo many things. Cutting out under power and cutting back in again a few seconds later is *definitely* down to the ECU injector driver circuit overheating. My 300 did it, Mike Hudson's 300 did it, so did my 610 (now RottBott's). The drivers generate their own heat so it's not just a case of insulating it against heat from the engine but *letting the box lose heat*. If you put insulation between it and the wall without an air gap, you're just insulating the box even more!

The more common cutting out problem is the simple need for a new ignition coil (NB not the whole unit, just the pack which is about £20 from the local motor factors).

I'm pretty sure a dodgy lambda feedback will not cause cutting out, it'll just cause a rich condition.

So did you fix the problem's with the three cars you mention?? I must admit my 610 has never had this problem, but i do try to use it frequently.

Well the 610 is still at Renault.

The benltey report was better than I expected and the Chrysler was just a routine service.

Thank you for asking.