Battery gets drained...

yes got a minor problem- when I leave the car standing for a week or two- the battery often needs recharging. I do not disconnect it because then I can't lock the Bonnet which I keep tools in and stuff.

Is it just the radio clock that could be graually draining it- it usually takes about 3 weeks to totally drain, or at least to a point of about 10 volts. Thats the only thing I can think of... have started disconnecting it to see if thats what it is.. there has also at somepoint been an alarm fitted but I never worked out how to use it- guess it could be that also?

Any ideas appreciated as abit annoying and doubt wether it is that good for the battery to keep recharging it?

when I leave the car standing for a week or two- the battery often needs recharging. I do not disconnect it because then I can't lock the Bonnet which I keep tools in and stuff.

I always disconnect the battery each time I bring the car back from a run. I originally found the same problem as you, that the battery goes down over a few weeks. But you can lock the car mechanically with the key in the lock.

yes hi John,
yes I think I did used to do that but for some reason the locks only seem to like the central locking and don't work to well mechanically (I think the passenger door locks fine without a battery but the drivers side won't seem to do it unless the battery is connected)... yes I don't know why this is the case and have tried squirting lubricant in the lock etc... any ideas anyone?

... yea another small problem !

but the drivers side won't seem to do it unless the battery is connected)

If I remember rightly, when you turn the key, a lever turns down on to the doorlock actuator plunger. It could be bent, or has come adrift from actual lock. Time to take the panel off, and have a look, I`m afraid

Thanks again John, help much appreciated... what panel do I have to take off? I think this won't be such a problem?

Yes, the passenger side locks fine without battery (mechanically) but the drivers side insists on a battery being connected... only 'half' locks, well doesn't lock but almost gets there(without battery)...

I think it did work previously without battery but NOT now... even after squirting lots of WD in locks etc... yet when the battery is connected with at least 12volt or so its fine...

... think you know what I am describing? what panel do I have to take off? thanks again for your help knowledge...

... think you know what I am describing? what panel do I have to take off?

Its the panel alongside the rear seat, in this case, behind the drivers seat. If I remember rightly, the trim above the rear window must be removed, (4 torx screws) the seat belt anchor bolt, any other screws around the panel, pull foward rear seat, I dont think there are any screws behind it, but check,... a good tug will detach the panel from the push fit attachments (or whatever they are called) To detach the whole lock assembly,... in the door jam, undo the three torx screws, 2 below, 1 above the lock slot. If you want to take the whole lock out, you will have to detach the manual internal opener cable, which just unhooks, and two connectors, and with a bit of luck you can put it on your lap, while you attend to all the scratches and scrapes on your hands only joking, but it is a bit tight for space.
Let us know how you get on.
John

I think that you will find that the lock mechanism will just be partially seized because of no use. I had the same problem when my locks used to mysteriously lock on their own and not respond to the remote?
You need to remove the lock completely and gradually free the joints up using WD40 or similar, the joints that are worked by the key and not the solenoids.
If you want to lock it without the battery being attached or connected just push the lock button down - you need to push the door button in fully first to be able to do this. The door will then lock, but make sure that you can open at least one of the doors using the key first!!!
To be able to get to the lock you have to remove the trims as previously explained in another string The rear headlining trim and then the rear quarter panel. It was sometime ago since I did it, but I remember being able to remove them within about 10mins in the dark!!! So it is not difficult.
As far as the battery is concerned, about a week to 2 weeks is about the most you can expect. The problem with the battery is that it is not big enough for the car and you cannot get a bigger one to fit unless you remove the panel covering it. I did have some success fitting a Varta Silver battery which is slightly more powerful, but they are not manufactured anymore. The only other option is a racing battery, but these are more than 2x price, but are much more powerful.
I think that you will have to get used to it??

Good luck.

Just foumd this, hope it helps.

In the LH picture, the key turns the quadrant, as it turns it has a ramp effect which lifts and lowers the pin which in turn actuates one of the links "a" which moves the actuator to lock/unlock for the other door electrically, whilst the other link mechanically locks the door, I cant tell which is which though.
John

Thanks again for your time and knowledge John, much appreciated... also 108002917 ........ will have a go....

As far as the battery is concerned, about a week to 2 weeks is about the most you can expect. The problem with the battery is that it is not big enough for the car and you cannot get a bigger one to fit unless you remove the panel covering it. I did have some success fitting a Varta Silver battery which is slightly more powerful, but they are not manufactured anymore. The only other option is a racing battery, but these are more than 2x price, but are much more powerful.

yes that seems to be the case... I did make the provision of adding a second small 10 -15Amp or so battery, I think I am right in saying I wired it parallel, to give it that bit more 'uumph' in starting, it did make a difference and I think I am right in saying that when you wire another battery in 'parallel' that the two batteries behave as one, i.e, they just become part of each other and act as maybe a 70-75 amp battery (60amps(original)+10-15amps(the extra), instead of two? It certainly does help when starting but as we have discussed just probably gives you a few more days before it gets drained.. not really the answer to the problem but may help others who need abit more 'kick' when starting...

Anyway hope I have described this in a clear enough manner?
This little 10-15 Amp or so battery fits lovely in the bonnet, near the original... very neat.. will get some pics as maybe this is good for others who find their small underpowered battery is struggling with starting etc...
Not that it is the answer to the topic....

will invesigate what you have both told me... thanks again..

As far as the battery is concerned, about a week to 2 weeks is about the most you can expect. The problem with the battery is that it is not big enough for the car and you cannot get a bigger one to fit unless you remove the panel covering it. I did have some success fitting a Varta Silver battery which is slightly more powerful, but they are not manufactured anymore. The only other option is a racing battery, but these are more than 2x price, but are much more powerful.

yes that seems to be the case... I did make the provision of adding a second small 10 -15Amp or so battery, I think I am right in saying I wired it parallel, to give it that bit more 'uumph' in starting, it did make a difference and I think I am right in saying that when you wire another battery in 'parallel' that the two batteries behave as one (cell/ battery), i.e, they just become part of each other and act as maybe a 70-75 amp battery (60amps(original)+10-15amps(the extra), instead of two?

It certainly does help when starting but as we have discussed just probably gives you a few more days before it gets drained.. not really the answer to the problem but may help others who need abit more 'kick' when starting...

This little 10-15 Amp or so battery fits lovely in the bonnet, near the original... very neat.. will get some pics as maybe this is good for others who find their small underpowered battery is struggling with starting etc...
Not that it is the answer to the topic in question but it may help others who want abit more 'boost'...

will invesigate what you have both told me... thanks again..

As far as the battery is concerned, about a week to 2 weeks is about the most you can expect. The problem with the battery is that it is not big enough for the car and you cannot get a bigger one to fit unless you remove the panel covering it. I did have some success fitting a Varta Silver battery which is slightly more powerful, but they are not manufactured anymore. The only other option is a racing battery, but these are more than 2x price, but are much more powerful.

yes that seems to be the case... I did make the provision of adding a second small 10 -15Amp or so battery, I think I am right in saying I wired it parallel, to give it that bit more 'uumph' in starting, it did make a difference and I think I am right in saying that when you wire another battery in 'parallel' that the two batteries behave as one (cell/ battery), i.e, they just become part of each other and act as maybe a 70-75 amp battery (60amps(original)+10-15amps(the extra), instead of two?

It certainly does help when starting but as we have discussed just probably gives you a few more days before it gets drained.. not really the answer to the problem but may help others who need abit more 'kick' when starting...

This little 10-15 Amp or so battery fits lovely in the bonnet, near the original... very neat.. will get some pics as maybe this is good for others who find their small underpowered battery is struggling with starting etc...
Not that it is the answer to the topic in question but it may help others who want abit more 'boost'...

will invesigate what you have both told me... thanks again..

sorry for the repeated messages... PC all locked up.. big time.

Was also hit by virus today... took out 1 PC and then spread through my network to a second.... (only id I have is backdoor.rbot!.sd6)... BEWARE!
Tthought message hadn't been sent... tried again ... and again... and again... then it tells me it has been sent, expected just one but low and behold all three or so are there... the joys of PC ownership....

think I fix my PC's far more than the Alpine...!

I did make the provision of adding a second small 10 -15Amp or so battery, I think I am right in saying I wired it parallel, to give it that bit more 'uumph' in starting, it did make a difference and I think I am right in saying that when you wire another battery in 'parallel' that the two batteries behave as one (cell/ battery), i.e, they just become part of each other and act as maybe a 70-75 amp battery (60amps(original)+10-15amps(the extra), instead of two?

Your theory is right, but in practice not a good idea. If you wish to increase the capacity of a battery on a permanent basis, you can connect them in parallel, like you have done...BUT... the batterys must have the same capacity, and be of the same condition/age. The problem comes when charging..., the smaller battery will reach full charge before the larger one and the charger/altenators regulator will sense the fully charged one and reduce the charge rate accordingly, therefore the larger one will not get fully charged. This can also happen if you do start off with identical batteries, and one developes a faulty cell, irrespective of how good the other battery seems, it is always good practice to replace both.
Clearly, if you just want to start a car with say, jump leads, the batteries do not have to be identical, as no charging will take place. One other thing to note is that as a battery ages, it looses capacity, therefore your new 60 amp/hour battery might only have 40 amp/hours available, a few years down the line.

[BIG_MVS]

Mine drains as well. I think it's the battery for one which needs replacing and the immobiliser. I just disconnect the earth which has been given a quick release mechanism.