Building a 3.0L engine

Thats a huge can of worms..!

hi guys

back to the original topic. I still have that 88 GTA in my garage putting out way over 400 HP (DIN, on the wheels). The engine is basically stock internally and has survived around 5 years of driving and club racing. So I cant see a reason to tamper with the Z7U, unless you are prepared to seriously upgrade the drivetrain. Just work on the intake and exhaust sides and a reliable 300 HP is easy.

By the way, to make the engine "rev", dont let the boost drop with engine speed. This sure is a problem with the original setup. A way do do this is to get a larger wastegate actuator or you can instal some kind of device, that raises boost around 5 grand.

What sort of club racing are you doing roman? and where?

Huge can of worms indeed! Presumably the claims will be backed up with some dyno sheets?
I assume its not running the standard intake/turbo set up?

the car has actually been sitting for 5 years or so and used to me mooved on tracks in germany and belgium with the german alpine club. i have no intrest to make any claims, i was just trying to share my experience. of course you dont get 400 hp plus by swaping the air filter. as a matter of fact just about anything is modified except as i say the Z7U itself. there are sequential twin turbos (ceramic), a liquid intercooler, sequential motec (wide band) and capacitive injection with 11 mm magnecors. again: there is no reason to toutch the engine, as long as it is getting enougt fuel, it is not the limitting factor.

Sounds good! Do you have any photos of it? What country is the car in now?

Sequential turbos on a V6, and 11mm Magnecors?



Can't wait to see the pics... .

ignition, that was of course. i live in basle (switzerland). unfortunately the car is garaged in zuerich. i havent checked on it for many months, but one of these day i have to make sure there is still enough tire pressure anyway, so i try and make some pictures. i'm afraid, though, most of the stuff is hidden by ther heat shielding.

I made my own offset dowels that you can turn to exactly degree up your cams . It required drilling the 7mm sprocket hole to 10 mm which gave you an allowance of 1.5 mm either side of its centerline.

What a f*cking good idea..... respect to that man! Okay, it's as likely to "hold" that sprocket in the right place as my way, but any failure will not be catastrophic. Have you experienced them moving at all, once done up?

No they have never moved . I have pulled an engine down twice with this method previously done and they still line up with a mark I have left in line with the slot I use for turning the offset dowel .

They are very easy to adjust while degreeing up the cams .
Tighten the set screw once the cams are set.

Does anyone have contact details for Chris, info in the members page is no longer current?

Just a shot in the dark...