round up of a110 mod questions

Has anyone had any luck obtaining the modified (vented) arch liners if so what part number, and can you use Renault parts?

Has anyone had any luck obtaining the parts to retrofit factory reverse camera to cars not equipped and if so .. (etc)

Has anyone had any luck improving DAB reception from awful to ok, by running a new antenna?

Anyone notice the coolant takes quite a while to reach operating temp on colder days? The blue marker and temp stays <50c for what seems like longer than I am used to in other sports cars.

Has anyone modded exhaust / intake to be freer flowing, and did the stock ecu accept it ok?

Anyone tried and recommend stickier rubber? Like PS4 not PS4s?

It's not really a suprise it takes a while to warm up on cold days - the coolant system will have a lot of water in it being mid engined and front cooled. The oil will take much longer still anyway (and if you have telemetrics, you can look at gearbox oil too which takes as long again - eg if the coolant takes 5 miles to warm up, the oil will probably take 10 miles and the gearbox 20).

What concerns me more is the rapid temperature cycling - running through a village you can see it get up to maybe 100C, but as you acclerate out it will drop very rapidly to maybe 80C. No doubt a function of water pump speed increasing with RPM, maybe thermostat opening too and a rush of cooler water from the rad arriving, but there's a theory in Lotus communities that this sort of behaviour contributed to head gasket failure on the K-series engines.

Also remember most cars won't actually tell you the real temp, the ECU will add a large amount of smoothing and sit in the middle of the gauge (almost) irrespective of what the actual temp is.

Surely the 110 is running an electric water pump like most modern cars now.?

Surely the 110 is running an electric water pump like most modern cars now.?

Good question. Maybe it is but there's still some sort of cycling effect?

It has 2 electric pumps

One for the low temperature circuit
One near the turbo to aid circulation for temperature there.
The fluctuation happens due to how far the pipes run under the car, as already said, rad at front it’s a big circuit.

Re the wheel arch liners , just ask your local parts department to order a set of front wheel arch liner for an S edition car, and you will get the liner with more venting.
You will need the liner, grill and 6 (I think) plastic rivets to fit it together.
Probably a 2 week order for the parts.

Hope that all helps.

Ps not tried fitting a camera yet but don’t it can be cheaply as will need a different loom and configuration file for the screen

yeah running at steady speed on the freeway I was bored so watched the water temp cycle up and down. It would go down to 8x then go up to 9x over a minute, rinse repeat forever. How thoughtful to keep whatever is in the frunk, toasty warm so it doesn't feel left out vs whatever is in the boot getting toasty warm.

Doesn't bother me too much as it seems to run hot enough, overall.

I'd rather have an engine run at 80s and 90s c than at 60s-70s on the street, (which is happening with my other car that has a track focus radiator and thermostat).

fwiw I measured the time and from cold it took 10 minutes (city, start-stop driving disabled) to reach 70c water, and another few minutes to reach 70c oil, and another few minutes to reach 90c water and 80c oil. So basically 15 minutes.
EDC oil stayed below temp though.

I am not sure I get why the long pipe runs mean it is a longer time to heat why doesn't a thermostat valve isolate the engine block from the run to the front of the car until 70c is reached.

I reckon Jon T has got it right in that there is no smoothing of the temperature, it is showing what is actually happening. If the same thing were to occur in mainstream cars most owners would be panicking so they're set to only show cold, normal and overheating.

atb
Tim